Replies

1. 
   Manchild | Aug 26, 2003 04:52am | #1

   There's a replacement for the shoe on your saber saw.

   It's shaped like a V with a rounded over bottom.

   After you cut on the chopsaw you cope it from the back with the sabersaw upside down.

   That way you are looking right at the cut line with blade right there also.

   You can finish up with different files to get it real close.

   If the cuts confuse you on the chopsaw make your practice cuts/pieces, (make a left and a right), and keep them by the saw. Some people have a hard time with this.

   On coped corners you literaly cut the crown upsidedown and backwards on the chopsaw. No kidding!

1. 
   mike4244 | Aug 26, 2003 05:21pm | #5

   David, I have seen the coping foot advertised but never used one. I use a Bosch barrel handle sabersaw with a metal cutting blade. After cutting the inside miter I place the base of the saw flat on the cut. This automatically gives you a 45* backcut. I was wondering how the coping foot could make it easier.

   Mike

1. 
   Manchild | Aug 26, 2003 06:20pm | #6

   Mike, The coping base alows you to put the sabersaw base against the back of the crown. Your sabersaw is upside down. The base is rightside up. There will be no tearout because the blade is pulling away from the finish side and dumping the sawdust out the back. No marring of that side of the crown because the base does not ride on the finish side. Complete unhindered view of the cutting opperation. All you see is the place you need to cut and the blade sticking up through the crown.

1. 
   mike4244 | Aug 26, 2003 11:35pm | #7

   David, I appreciate your reply but I think you misunderstood my method. The sawbase is set at the usual 90* and rides on the cut profile not the face. This way you get the backcut as you cut the profile. I first make relief cuts at the flat spots where the cove or Ogee starts.I then cut the cove and ogee. I lightly clamp the crown to the mitersaw fence and cut upward from bottom to top. I can see the cut plainly and any dust falls straight down past the area that was cut.Maybe some day I will see a carpenter using the coping foot and understand better the need for it. There must be some guys out there that have used both methods and could enlighten me.

   Mike

2. 
   stevelf | Aug 26, 2003 05:13am | #2

   ---I think you need one of the many fine pictured books on the subject... Gary Katz has a good one; Jim Tolpin has excellent finish carpentry books. I cut all my crown flat, as opposed to "upside down" on your saw's table. It's just my preference, plus my sliding compound miter saw does bevels both ways...

   I think the attachment aforementioned is the infamous "Collins Coping Foot". I haven't used one yet but just happened to have ordered one today. It comes HIGHLY recommended!

   Collins Tool Company

   888/838-8988

   http://www.collinstool.com

3. 
   krumy1 | Aug 26, 2003 12:11pm | #3

   I have  a section on my website that should help you It's at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/krumy/  There are also links to other pages dealing with crown molding in case you don't find what you need there.

   Steve K

4. 
   jjf | Aug 26, 2003 03:16pm | #4

   If you have a hard time visualizing how to put the crown molding in the chop saw realize that the cieling is really upside-down floor and then visualize that you are cutting the molding for the floor.

   Ideally you wanat to remove all the material in the miter that is endgrain so that the new surface is perpendicular to the back surface.  In practice since now corners are perfectly square you want to remove more on the back so that you have an acute angle (less than 90) on the exposed surface so that you can force this sharp angle into the joining piece and make a tight join..  This can be done witha a sbersaw, coping saw or utility knife.

5. 
   RW | Aug 27, 2003 04:32am | #8

   Cut half the angle on the chop saw (a 90 degree inside you cut 45). Table is the ceiling, fence is the wall, unless you know how to cut it on the flat. Back cut the profile - which means you cut it greater than even, you relieve it so you have a point all along the edge where the two make contact. I have the coping foot as well and I think I'm the only guy I know who is only lukewarm to it. Maybe I just haven't given it a chance to get comfy. But the files - that's mandatory. Some profiles you'll get so thin if you try to cut them with a saw blade, electrical or man power, you'll break them off. Thick areas cut to the line, thin areas leave a little to gently file away. Best way to practice is just get some scraps and try to make them fit. No other way. If the angle is wide, like the 45s you get on bay windows, you will have to back cut significantly to relieve the coped piece from hitting. Start with right angles, then practice the other stuff when you get the hang of it.

   edit: BTW, the spring angle of the crown makes this more complex than coping base. Keep in mind while you're coping what angle the crown is going to sit at,

   "The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb "      lyrics by Roger Waters

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/26/2003 9:34:06 PM ET by RW

1. 
   scooter1 | Aug 27, 2003 07:12pm | #9

   This is what I do:

   Cut the stock as if it was a standard mitered corner on the chop saw.

   Take a sharpie or pencil and outline the profile on the stock.

   Get a medium or fine bladed coping saw and put it at an extreme back cut, like about 20 degrees and hold it at that same angle throughout. I make the up and down (verticle) cuts first, and do not make the cope in one continuous cut. I will cut horizontally through the waste to finish a verticle cut, then work on the curves. I might do this 2-3 times on the cope, depending on its width and complexity.

   When you are through take a rasp and smooth the back out at that same 20 degree angle.

   You are ready to fit the cope now, and using sandpaper, a chisel or my favorite tool a really sharp pocket knife or utility blade, trim the thin edges to match the adjacent piece.

   It will take you about 5-10 practice cuts to get the technique down, and I still cut the coped cut long in case I make a mistake.

   Good Luck!

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

6. 
   ron61 | Aug 29, 2003 01:29am | #10

   But has anyone told you how to cut the molding so you can cut the cope?

   Who Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins

1. 
   krumy1 | Aug 29, 2003 12:17pm | #12

   Does ANYONE read the previous responses before they post?

   AGAINhttp://mywebpages.comcast.net/krumy/  check it out.

   Steve

1. 
   ron61 | Aug 30, 2003 11:25pm | #15

   Go read some poetry Stevie Who Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins

7. 
   ron61 | Aug 29, 2003 01:42am | #11

   I have not cut a cope on crown with this method but works fine with base trim and think it would work as long as it was cut as it goes to the ceiling & is back cut.

   Cut an inside 45 on the end of the crown and cut the profile  with coping saw perfect fit then cut to length.

   Most of the crown I see they just do a inside 45 instead of coping or use  blocks to let the crown die into.

   Who Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins

8. 
   Danusan11 | Aug 30, 2003 08:42pm | #13

   Having installed 1000,s of lf. of crown molding, I have found the fastest way for me is to cut on miter box profile to be coped. Then use saber saw to cut out majority of meat leaving approx 1/8-1/16" left on profile ,then use angle grinder with abrasive disk to follow profile.

   If when installing angle needs to be changed 1 to 2 degrees right or left, back to miter box saw cut little bit off, angle grind profile again, haven't used coping saw for years, probably never will.

9. 
   JayLaPlante | Aug 30, 2003 09:13pm | #14

   As a trim carpenter, we install crown almost daily.  I cope crown with a german made coping saw I bought at the woodcraft store.  I also use coping saw blades designed for plastic because the teeth are smaller and cut sharper.  The plus side to hand coping crown is that your forearm begins to look like popeyes after a while.