How would you cope s4s baseboards that have a 1/8″ radius? And any suggestions on technique? It’s f/j poplar painted for a craftsman s4s style. Prefinishing before install.
I was thinking I would cut the miter, cut away the straight part of the base upside-down on the miter saw, then use a coping saw or rasp with same diameter.
This will be the first time trying to cope but since it’s a remodel of a 1920s farmhouse with no straight walls, perfect corners, etc, miters sound more frustrating.
-Eric
Replies
I think you have the idea. And, you are correct. I is difficult to do miters when the walls are rarely square. I've done only enough coping to know that it takes some practice and you will get better at it as you go along. Take solace in that the profile you are working with is fairly simple.
One thing I learned quickly is that most coping is done with a "back cut". This means that the cut to make the profile is done at a slight angle so that only the exposed edge will actually contact the adjoining piece. This makes it easier to make a gap free closure.
You're right on track.
Also, back cutting (bilyo) is pretty helpful too. If you've enough material, practice on three or four cuts before you go for broke. I've also used stock that's a bit shorter than the length needed for the run, coped both the left hand side on one piece, the right hand side on another piece then jointed them somewhere less obvious away from the end, using a simple 45 degree "butt" joint which is easily enough hidden when you install the moulding. That let's me sneak up on the length and allows for tweeking the coped ends to get them "just right," leaving only the length and the butt joint to worry about.
The latter has become "routine" for me simply because when I "go for broke" with both ends to an exact length... well, it usually doesn't work out and I end up with more work (and cutting another piece) anyway.
I've seen some folks omit the miter altogether - depending on the profile - that may be something to consider. You'll still want to back-cut the coped end of course. Consider if you can trace the profile of the full end to the to-be-coped end giving you a pattern to follow. (I hope that makes sense).
FWIW
Best of luck!
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