Replies

1. 
   ThreeRiverstool | Jun 10, 2009 04:31pm | #1

   Hi Craig

   I also suggest you let the sled go, for two reasons.  First, its near impossible to align the rail with the stiles when you run the rails flat on your router table, and then cope the stiles on your sled.  Second, to ensure alignment and precise fit, you want to put pressure on the coping end of your stock to ensure its dead flat.  If you have  the sled, your stock is raised and unsupported, so you cannot put any pressure on the stock at all otherwise you will deflect the stock and the piece will not  fit perfectly.  Stability is key here. 

   However, if you wish to use your sled, it sounds as if the sled miter bar needs to be relocated back to accommodate larger bits. 

   Here is how I approach the task.  I load the non coping bit (female for stiles) and level it with the table.  I then take a scrap piece of my door stock that is dimensionally identical,  (when I make my doors, I mill extra pieces for testing and set-up) adjusting the bit upward until the profile of my cutter aligns to the scrap piece of stock giving me the profile that balances the top and the bottom of the cut evenly within the stock.  I then tighten the router and  mill the test stile so I have a testing piece. 

   I then load the coping side bit set and use my test piece just made as above to align the height of the coping bit.  Without using a sled, I use a large block of wood that is about 12" long and about 5-6" wide using that behind the stock that I am coping.  I use that by clamping the rail perpendicular to the 12 x 6 and run the cut, holding both pieces against my fence.  You need to make sure your fence is square to your track of cut, otherwise, your coping side of your rail will be off.  Use your table saw miter and clamp your test piece to the miter.  Check both sides of your fence if your using a split fence configuration to ensure your fence is parallel to the path of your stock travel and your bit. 

   Tip: I have also found better results by not allowing the stock to bottom out on the bit bearing.  I like my stock to be just shy of the bearing so that the fence of my router table aligns the stock, not the bearing on the bit.  If these are not dead even, the bearing will make the stock jump ruining the cut, hence leaving some clearance.  BTW, we are talking about the thickness of a piece of paper for clearance, so it will not effect the structural integrity of the door.

   Load your rail cutting bit and cut the mating pieces.  TIP:  I do not cut the profiles on the stiles side until after they have been coped.  This way you will not have tear out of the unsupported stock that has the rail formed in it.   Mill the stiles now and that will clean up the coping end of the stock.

   Hope this makes sense and is helpful. 

    

   Good luck. 

    

   Jeff

    

    

    

    

2. 
   boilerbay | Jun 10, 2009 04:42pm | #2

   What sled are you using?
   Is the sled riding on fence parallel tracks?
   Pictures?

   Many use a miter (like the Delta with a hold down) with a backer or just freehand-with a backer (not the best technique).

   The sled's parallel edge normally never approaches the the bit orifice unless the carrier is designed to be replaced and is used as a backer for the cope.
   Sounds like you have the sled way to close to the fence. Slide it away from the fence and insert a backer piece to control tearout.

   More info needed.

   BB