OK, Colleen, here’s how I went about creating the leaf pattern and patina on the copper lids of the boxes:
First, I can’t honestly remember where I read about this technique, but I took notes and followed them… someone, somewhere else should take credit. What spurred me into actually doing it was walking along the sidewalk in front of my house, and seeing all these maple leaf patterns on the concrete, where leaves had fallen, rotted a bit in the rain, and then were swept up — leaving the fossil-like color imprint.
Anyway, I bought a roll of copper sheeting at the hardware store, and cut it into rectangles approximately the depth and width of the boxes I wanted to make. I cleaned the copper well after cutting, to remove any finger oils, etc.
I then took Avery label paper (sticky, with the peel-off backing), drew the shapes I wanted (in this case, maple leaves), cut them out, peeled off the backing and stuck them to the copper. I also cut out thin lines near the centers of the leaf lobes, to mimic veining.
I took one of those small, Gladware disposable plastic food containers, just larger than the copper sheet, and poured about a half-inch of household ammonia in it. I then dropped a couple blocks of scrap wood in the container, to hold the copper just above the level of the liquid, without getting it wet.
Before “fuming” the copper piece, I spritzed it with water and then sprinkled table salt all over it. I set it carefully on the wood scraps in the container, and then closed the lid.
Then you just wait and watch. After about 3-4 hours (possible depending on factors such as temperature, vapor concentration, etc.), the copper will get a sort of dark olive-green look to it. Wait about 6 hours and it will get the turquoise effect — the more table salt, the more turquoise, too. When you’ve achieved the color you want, take the piece out of the plastic container. Let the copper panel air out a bit until all the ammonia is dispersed.
Then, carefully, using lacquer thinner and a small toothbrush, clean off the paper. What you’ll reveal is the unpatinated copper in the shape of the paper you applied. Depending on how well the paper protected the copper, you may reveal the same shine you started out with or a slightly duller look, still distinguishable from the patina that surrounds it.
Let the piece dry again. Apply a few coats of lacquer. Now, work with it as you’d like. In this case, again, I was using the copper as a lid to a small box; I laid the copper (unglued) on a thin, same-dimensions piece of 1/8″ plywood and fitted it into a dado running around the inside perimeter of the box.
Attached are two photographs. The “WalEb…” one is of the top of a finished box. The panel is more turquoise in coloration, the leaves are a bit browner, so I thought walnut would be a good choice of wood. The “BlwEb…” pic is of a piece with failed construction (as I noted in the “lining a jewelry box thread) that will be taken apart and refitted, but I’ve added it here to show a contrasting panel. The more reddish hues, I think, go well with the bloodwood used for the box.
(Oh, by the way, the plastic you see covering the bloodwood box is to protect the top while I’m finishing the wood, if I’m finishing it with something other than the lacquer already used on the copper panel. I wrap the panel first, before gluing up the box, then tug it out when I don’t need the protection any longer.)
Anyway, it was fun, easy, and different.
David
“The world that was not made is not won by what is done” — Mundaka Upanishad
Edited 2/11/2003 9:37:58 AM ET by davamoore
Replies
David,
Nice work on the box. You may have gotten the method somewhere else, but I know it was in Wood magazine. I think it was one of their free downloads at one time. They also go over the patinating process you describe.
Splintie, David covered it pretty well, but if you're interested, ping me & I can e-mail it to you.
Froed
Froed, I think you're right on the source... my father subscribes to Wood magazine, and I usually spend a little time flipping through his back issues when I make my periodic pilgrimages to Loon Lake, Washington. I brought home a cut-out with a sample leaf pattern, too... of course, once cut out of the magazine the source was gone!
Thanks for the reminder. And since I appear to be stealing methods left and right (kidding), I should also mention that I'm taking a class this summer from David Marks (of the DIY Network's "Wood Works" show) on gilding and patination. It should be fun, and open up a whole 'nother world of surfacing techniques -- if I like the end results. I'll be sure to get the source right if I do!
David
"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
Edited 2/11/2003 5:00:42 PM ET by davamoore
Dave
I saw a show of David Marks a few weeks ago (Sat at 7am) where he did a thing with copper, for the base of a bench or table. With copper, treated. Not what I am in to, but quite interesting and beautiful. He seems to have a nice manner, and approaches his craft with a gentle manner. I see him, and think of myself fighting with the wood from time to time. A contrast, I must say. Your class should be enjoyable.
Alan
Edited 2/12/2003 10:14:15 AM ET by s4s
Thank-you for the offer to email the article; i'm sending you my e-addy. Let me know if you don't get it and i'll post it here. Thank-you!
It's on it's way.
Froed
Thanks for posting this; i was hoping it would be here when i got back. I'm am most definitely going to do some of these and now that i know you used a cutout instead of a real leaf, i s'pose i could do some abstract stuff, too. I really like it, have also been thinking over the past couple days of how to incorporate it into my craft fair booth and also the tables i've been doing. Many, many thanks for a new technique!
You're welcome, and sorry about the delayed reply. I've been in Austin and San Antonio for a quick vacation (had a blast, by the way), and am now back to the grind (really... the worst thing about winter breaks is coming back to the cold!).
David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
I got the PDF from Frederick and can't wait to try this at home! <G>
I'm also thinking of applying the technique to my craft fair booth---might be downright glam.
And some of those craft fairs do need a bit more glam, don't you agree? ;-)
David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
Wood magazine online has just sent out another recipe for copper patination, in case anyone's interested. The results are different -- more "old brown" rather than the blue/turquoise of the other method under discussion:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/default.sph/wcontent_user.class?FNC=PrintStory__Astory1_html___7___47___122___420
David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
I do a fair amount of metalsmithing and copper patination is sort of a specialty of mine. Since you guys seem interested, I thought I'd add a few ideas. First of all try some different types of salts. You'll find several varieties at most supermarkets (lite-salts, salt substitutes etc.). Each will vary the effects. Secondly try applying the salts by embedding the copper pieces in sawdust in tupperware type containers. The sawdust should be soaked with a solution of the dissolved salt. The grain size of the sawdust affects the fineness of the patterns that develop ... so coarse chunky sawdust usually gives a more interesting pattern. The sawdust technique often creates sort of a granite-like pattern. Development time is variable but usually about two days yields the most dramatic results. Heat patination is also fascinating and yields instant gratification. Just clean the surface thoroughly, with sandpaper and wire brush or acid pickle. Then heat it slowly with a small propane torch turned to a low flame. Keep a container of water handy to quench it in when you get a color that you like. Be sure to use pliers to hold it as you do the heat patination. The temps involved are well above that required to burn fingers.
Clay, this is great information -- thank you. I will try them out and may come back to you for more details, if you don't mind.
David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
You are welcome and I won't mind at all. When I get a little time I'll get the digicam out and post a few photos of some finished work with various patinas so that you can get a feel for the possibilities.
The sawdust should be soaked with a solution of the dissolved salt.
Do you use any other liquids in which to dissolve the salt besides ammonia, or is that the only compound that reacts with the copper? (Be kind, i'm a chemical virgin.)
Thanks for this information. Playtime with my 17# of copper awaits...
Copper is highly reactive and will react with almost any compound. For the sawdust patination I usually just dissolve the salt in water. The sawdust provides the random ingredients that make the magic happen. The sawdust should be thoroughly dampened but not so wet that you can squeeze water out of it (at least not much should squeeze out). Different species of sawdust will vary in effects. The sawdust salt and moisture mixtures seem to lose potency over time so it is best to use a fairly fresh mixture. If the mix is too wet the acids will wash away most of the patina. If too dry it may not develop enough patina. You should not disturb the developing patina until you are ready to harvest it, because the exact way in which the sawdust contacts the surface is what prints the patterns. So you load your metal into the sawdust and then check it out after about two days. If left too long the acids will eat overly deep into the metal and often eat away too much of the color. If pulled too soon not enough reaction will have taken place. There are no hard rules to follow ... you have to experiment, but it is not usually very hard to get an interesting result. I've had good results from jointer chips which are a bit coarser than actual sawdust. The finer lathe shavings should be good too. Chainsaws make about perfect sized sawdust. The salts make the mixes more potent and quicker acting but they are not the only option. The wet sawdust alone might give you a nice result too, if you give it a longer development time.
You can pour a little ammonia into the bottom of the sealable container that holds the sawdust. Try different combinations. It’s fascinating fun.
Edited 3/19/2003 3:46:13 AM ET by Clay
Thanks very much, i'm greatly encouraged. I use a large variety of exotics, so i'll start picking up the shavings from them.
Maybe i shoudn't be burning up the stuff the dog piddled in until i've extracted the good stuff from it! LOL
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