I have a problem that I think (hope) a corded drill will solve. I need to drill a 1/2 inch diameter hole through approx. 11 inches of red oak. The hole has to be drilled “on edge” through some 8/4 shelf brackets. I have a 18v cordless drill that does not have the power to drill through, it just bogs down and stops. Even two fresh batteries will not get through, only down about 8 inches or so. I have tried a new auger bit and a net spade bit. Things progress fine until the 8 inch mark, then friction overpowers the drill.
Will a decent corded drill, say 8 amp or so, perform this task? What about a hammer drill?
Replies
A few questions-
is the oak dry?
Is the bit sharp? If not, resharpen it.
Is the bit self-feeding?
Do you have a 1/8" bit? You could drill through to the other side and start over from the other side. That way, you're only drilling through 3" of remaining wood.
I have a milwaukee 1/2" hole shooter and that should go threw oak easily. The corded have a lot more low end power, no high speed, just torque. The hole shooters are about $135 at Lowes and HD. Just use a sharp bit and pull it out every inch or two to clear the debris out.
With a cordless, you may be able to get it to work buy drilling a smaller diameter first then going up to the 1/2" hole but I don't know about getting in 11", with anything smaller than a 1/2", the bit will probably break.
I have co worker who has "rented" a tool from HD a few times. If he needs something, like you need the 1/2 drill, he will buy it from HD drill the hole he needs and make sure not to keep the drill pristine, then box it and return it to the box store. Its not right but if he only needs something once and cannot borrow it, he does this and has not had a problem.
I guess there is two ways to look at it. One is to look at the bit like Highfigh suggested. I have some bits that only have one flute or cutting edge that work better with cordless drills. The drill only has to push one flute instead of two but i always was running into low batteries or not enough power regardless.
The other is to get a 3/8" or 1/2" corded drill. I have an arsenal of drills to throw at projects. That's why they make different size drill motors. You can push a drill to do more than it was designed to do but as you have found out it can be annoying.
The last drill motor i bought was a 1/2" hammer drill. I thought about getting one that could drill in concrete and wood but settled on one specifically for concrete. It would have been nice to have a big wood working drill but the good concrete drills are made just for that.
I suggest you buy a 1/2" drill corded drill motor. The cordless is great for what it was made for but it can't do it all despite what the manufactures say.
This would be a good job for a plug-in drill with a low speed range, around 1000 RPM or so. You asked about a hammer drill - the hammer action is meant for masonry and doesn't help in wood. BUT, if you're going to get a new drill anyway, you might want to consider the hammer drill option, in case you're next drilling challenge is in concrete.
An old-fashioned, hand-cranked brace would work well too - amazing torque.
Just an update... I purchased a 6.5 amp Ridgid 3/8" corded drill. Using the same bits, I ran right through 12" of scrap 8/4 oak (on edge). My cordless drill, even with both batteries fully charged, got one hole. However, that took a little while. For what it's worth, I wanted to share the results of my little "experiment".
Thanks to all who replied and helped!
I think the Ridgid is a good choice, especially in light of the warranty they provide...if you aren't happy with the results(and it sounds like you are happy) then you'll have no problems with a return......
Yes, I am happy with the drill. I has looking for a "happy medium" in my purchase - a drill with a little more power, yet fairly light and "useable" for little things around the shop. I plan to keep the corded drill near my pocket hole jig and free up my cordless for other things. I wasn't opposed to buying a 1/2" corded drill, but the 3/8" seemed a little more practical for my situation.
as long as it fits into what you need it to do then it was the right purchase, couldn't agree with you more on that point....
Even a Craftsman half inch corded drill would do that. I once watched my dad get a bit stuck with his 1/2" and the drill started spinning - the drill lock was on, so all he could do was let go and let the drill wind the cord up and unplug itself. Pretty funny (since no one got hurt)- but the torque on that baby was amazing...
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
I had a similar experience building a sea wall. We were setting big timbers soaked in creasote by using these huge long nails. Then we would drill 1 1/4" holes with a 1"-1 1/4" drill motor to bolt the timbers together with galvanized all-thread. The drill had pipe threaded into it for leverage.
The first time the drill bit hit a hidden nail it kind threw me off, rotated around and almost got me with the chuck key that whipped around on the cord.
So I changed my approch to the comiting too much to hilding on to it and moved the chuck key down the cord a few feet.
The next time I hit a nail I just let go and stepped back to let the drill spin to a stop.
Wouldn't ya know it. That chuck key came around in a 6 foot circle and landed square on my head. Needless to say i changed my tactics again.
I'd go out and get a good 1/2 inch drill motor myself and use a sharp bit...one thing I will mention before you go out and plunk down money, I bought a Dewalt awhile back, a DW235G, for a small tile job I was doing...was mixing a 1/2 bag of grout in a 5 gallon bucket, with the proper mixing paddle and the motor started smelling like burnt varnish almost immediately...this surprised me in light of the fact that the grout was being prepp'ed thinner than normal, nearly the consistency of soup....I added too much water to the batch......
I've read all of the responses, and am surprised that no-one suggested an auger bit and large swing brace. It's fast. quiet, and satisfying. I once bored a 30" lampbase of well seasoned hickory by hand. It was not fast! I think I spent part of three days on it, needing to rest some muscles. Red oak cross grain would bore easily by hand.
Tom
"surprised that no-one suggested an auger bit and large swing brace"
Um, I did: http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=22349.5
But does anyone listen to me? Noooooooooo.
If I felt compelled to use a power drill for this application, an old Millwaukee "Hole Hog", ($50 at a yard sale), would work well.
Tom
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