Finally realising that my 18 year old cordless makita jigsaw isn’t really up to snuff any more, I’m going to set off to buy something with a little more juice….and it needn’t be cordless.
Everyone has their favourite, so I’m open to suggestions. I’m leaning towards either porter-cable or dewalt, but it may come down to whatever feels comfortable.
Thanks for any input.
Bob.
Edited 10/4/2004 6:47 pm ET by Bob
Replies
Bob,
I'm very please with my Bosch, and they've made several improvements since I bought mine umpteen years ago. Although I haven't used one, Festool jigsaws receive rave reviews and are worth considering.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
I have both an older Milwaukee, made in Germany, and the new Bosch...Bosch wins hands down.
The new Bosch....
BOSCH
Bob
I really like the Bosch. Before I had Craftsman and similar. Bosch is a real tool.
Rod
Bosch.
I too am in the market for another jig saw.
Bosch has for years had the lion's share of the market; I own one, and it has served me well.
But before just automatically opting for another Bosch, I would really like to hear from those who own the Festool or Metabo saws.
I've used a festool Dgrip type for two years now...........never a problem its made like a swiss watch, its accurate, in my experience its less prone to blade distortion with decent blades, vibration is well damped.....and the finish is sublime........might cost a tad more than the bosch but worth every penny...take care Iain
I've owned a Crapsman, Porter-Cable 97549, Bosch 1587, and currently the Milwaukee 6266-21. I think the Milwaukee is the best of the bunch I've owned, followed by the PC, Bosch 1587, and at the the bottom, the Craftsman. If I was in the market for a new jigsaw, I'd be looking at the newest version of Milwaukee's 6266 and Bosch's 1590.
Neat, a Bosch convention! A 1584VS here!
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
Bosch!
When I first got it I wanted to hang a wheelbarrow on the wall of my garage, so I traced the out line of the front end curve on a 2 x8 x2 construction fir board. And tried to cut it with the Bosch jig saw, thinking "this will be a messy cut -a 45 degree angle that curves". But it was easy, followed the line very well, and the surface of the cut was like it was sanded it was so smooth. It was amazing.
The blade holding system did take some getting used to, but once you understand it, it is fine. Edward
Hey EF,
I've always had excellent results with my Bosch. As for that "clic" blade system it did take a few attempts at changing a blade before I could change a blade without tearing up my fingers!
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
Edited 10/6/2004 8:18 pm ET by f4phanatic
"it did take a few attempts at changing a blade before I could change a blade without tearing up my fingers!"
There, you see! I have the same problem! Who asks an operator to twist a sharp saw blade around with their bare fingers? And those new Bosch blades are really, really sharp. I always use a pair of pliers just to be safe.
Hey el papa,
My first couple attempts left me with shredded skin, no blood drawn fortunately! I started using the pliers on my Leatherman and Gerber Multitool. I've found that if I turn the knob about 6 or 7 turns, I can twist the blade more easily with my fingers, but I still use the pliers anyway. As far as cutting goes, Bosch sure has what are probably the sharpest blades of anybody. They zip through wood like it's not there!
So other than blade changing, it's a great little saw! I love my 1584VS.
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
14, Noneed to use pliers
when changing bosch T Tang blades make sure the saw's shaft is fully extended when removing or replacing blades When the shaft is in the uppermost position it is nearly impossible to twist the blade to the forward facing position as the edge of the blade binds and refuses to index into the guide roller
I just 'Bump' the switch a few times 'till the shaft is about at it's longest stroke.
Then, change blades. ALWAYS pull out the plug before changing blades (Unless you like being called 'Numbsy"14 Steinmetz
Hey stein,
I always pull the plug first, having had my thumb partially amputated years ago and reattached as a young one, I'm not to keen on going through that again! As for the shaft being at it's longest, thanks for the tip.
As for being called Numbsy, well Bosch's blades are so sharp they can put a pirhana to shame!
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
F4, Used every power tool you can think of and almost never cut my self too badly. HOWEVER. I lost the end of my thumb down to the bottom of the thumb nail with a bench mounted disc grinder
It wasn't ground or cut off, it was squashed off when the postage card sized piece of 3/8" steel was wedged between the rotating !-1/2HP wheel and the miter gauge slot
It SNAPPED down so fast and richochied up and hit me just above the eye
That smarted! (4 stitches) When I got over the knock to the head, I saw my thumb missing and hurting bad to boot. Called 911 police came, then searched for the missing part put it on ice and drove me to EMD Had it all stitched up neatly by a specialist at that sort of thing
Asked the surgeon how'scome you didn't sew back the rest of the 'Didgit'
He calmly replied,"In the trade," we call that "Roadkill"
By the way those bosch blades can be filed sharped many times if you don't burn or break them Steinmetz.
;
Hey stein,
Thanks for the info on sharpening those blades. What's the technique? I use them until there're dull then I chuck them. I've burned a few blades, also my fingers a few times pulling them after cutting. Now I let them cool off for 5 minutes.
I had my thumb caught in a car door, the digit was cut off at the base of the nail, hanging by a bit of skin. Had it sewn back on, it works like a charm after it healed!
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
f4, if you first paint the dull blade with Dykem blue (or Blue Magic Marker) then clamp blade horizontally in a vise with the teeth sticking up you can file the teeth with a swiss pattern file The file should be triangular shaped (Three corner file)File every other tooth equal strokes holding the file level and angled to follow origanal angle. After teeth 1.3,5,79,etc ,is filed so the cutting faces are shiny bright, file #s 2 4 6 8 10in the opposing angle
To avoiv 'chatter keep only the line of teeth slightly above the vise jaws A little oil won,t hoit either. Use all sides ov the file so as to get long life from the file (Like rotating your bald tires LOL. Stein.
I have yet to sharpen the 'Progressor blades which seem to have more acute angled teeth If you can buy the right file??? it would not be dificult Incidently, only file the blades intended for wood the metal cutting blades are harder than the file. There's one file called lozenge shape (Diamond) that may do the progressor blades. Stein.
If you have a Dremel Moto- tool, with those thin cut off wheels, you can grind the hardened teeth on metal cutting blades (Also sawsall blades .)
Thanks stein,
I've got 3 different triangular files at work. They are a bastard, second & smooth cuts. Also have a set of swiss pattern files. Use them at work doing sheet metal work on airplanes. My current set of blades are Progressor's, purchased just before Woodworkers Warehouse went glug-glug down the drain.
Don't have a Dremel, but I do have a straight and right angle pneumatic die grinders from Snap- On.
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
Get a Dremel,They are great for usually impossible tasks IE, Cuting off shackles on padlocks (In lieu of a key)
Backing out screws and studs that have broken off at the head,Sharpening Hole saws Sharpening Carbide bits (With a diamond blade) Drilling holes in hardened steel objects ( With a carbide bit) Cutting slots in non-removable screws to back out with screwdriver . and Routing into wood and forfica to install small locks and hardware. Use a dremel router attachment. Ed (Stein)
How about a short course on how you use a Dremel for sharpening all those items? Which attachments, techniques, and the like.
I have a flock of expensive hole saws, for instance, that badly need sharpening (some carbide, the rest steel).
If you are willing, respond here, and I'll ask a question to start a new thread. I think there are many others who would be interested, and we wouldn't want to bury your tutorial in a thread given to jig saw selection.
Thanks.
Nick, Nicky? nothing too complicated . If the hole saws are not burnt up (overheated for lack of oil.) Just paint the tooth area with Dykem blue (or red)
Using the Dremel with a thin slitting grinding wheel on an arbor, grind away the slanted area of each tooth maintaining the orignal relief and attack angle . Just remove enough to end up with a sharp forward edge (DONT grind the gullet area)
'The angle of attack should also follow the original angle Each tooth either presents it's high' Peak favoring the inner rim of the holesaw, of the outside. Since they alternate, grind every other tooth observing the teeth somewhat like belly buttons Is it an 'Innie? An Outty?Mark off your starting point and progress 'till you are back to start mark Then, continue on the alternate teeth until all the teeth are bright and shiny and no ink remains on the leading edge of the cutters Run your finger along the teeth to test sharpness. After repeated re sharpenings, you MAY want to deepen the gullets Use a flat circular wheel with a radioused edge Don't create a sharp corner or 'nick' in the gullet (which will weaken and later break away a tooth.) Steinmetz.
Thanks for info, but:
1) where does one get Dykem?
and 2), Is there a Dremel # for the "thin slitting grinding wheel" you are referring to? Dremel has a huge selection of various grinding wheels, and sorry to say, I have no idea which one you are talking about.
Thanks.
1) where does one get Dykem?
##########
Should be available from any supply house that deals with metal working shops.
Leon Jester, Roanoke VA
Q: How do you know when a politician is lying?
A: His lips are moving.
Hi stein,
I've thought about getting a Dremel. At least I don't have to worry about setting up a compressor! Right now I mainly use the die grinders at work since the hangar and shop are plumbed for air. With X-mas maybe I'll treat myself!
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
Gee, I was having trouble with them just falling out after I thought I had it in.......Edward
Hey EF,
Thery are falling out after you get them in! That's weird! Are you sure you're pushing the tang of the blade in far enough? When you get the blade in are you turning the knob clockwise until you hear it click! You should also feel resistance as the knob locks the blade in just before the click. Then, there could be something wrong with the saw! Hope this helps. Maybe some other knotheads might have some advice.
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
Oh, I did figure it out, thanks, but it did take some getting used to. There is no clear indication when you've pushed the blade in far enough. Especially the first few times you do it. But blade loading is a fair criticism of the saw. But at least I wasn't cutting myself as some had.Edward
Hey EF,
Yeah, my first few attempts were sort of frustrating, luckily no blood was drawn, just some skin shredded, that's all.
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
Bosch. That being said, my other jigsaw is a Craftsman 3-speed I bought rebuilt in July 1967 and it still works as good as the day I bought it, but it doesn"t have the power of the Bosch.
Your Craftsman was made back when they still made real tools. My late 70's vintage one always worked but you could never keep a blade in it. My Bosch was a disappointment. I expected better than my previous PC but that old fixed base PC was the better saw. The Bosch vibrated, didn't cut well, and blade changes were a pain. I just might have got a bad one but the Bosch was a real disappointment after all I'd heard. The Milwaukee was like night and day. Slick blade changes, smooth, straight cutting and lots of power. imho the new Bosch 1590 shows more than a little AEG/Milwaukee influence.
I've got a 1975 craftsman and it still does everything I'd want from a jigsaw. Note that I don't use a jigsaw regularly since I have a coping saw, a bandsaw and a scroll saw. Still, there are things that a jigsaw does that nothing else can do.
My craftsman experience (29 years old) has absolutely nothing either positive or negative to say about a modern craftsman tool, and, having the old craftsman, I havn't needed a new one so don't know about other brands.
My advice: If you have a tool that works, you don't need the latest gismo unless you use it all the time and the new features are must haves, not wanna haves.
Geez, doesn't anybody out there own a Festool or Metabo?
I have a Festool PS 300 EQ and like it a lot. Used an older Metabo (not the high end type) a few times so I can't really comment on it. The current Metabo STE 105 seems to be a good saw without any negative and positive highlights.Advantages of the Festool saws:- Splinterguard which actually works (really no tear out even in melamine) - CP guard which ensures precises angles- good dust collection (not as good as on sanders but still very nice for a jigsaw)The new Bosch saws seem to offer a similar feature to the Festool CP guard. Anyway, one of my woodworking buddies from Germany, Dietrich, had the chance to compare the new Bosch to the Festool Trion jigsaw.Those are his comments:Both are very powerful, the Bosch seems to be a littlebit faster when sawing 30 mm birch ply. The blade change of the Bosch is more comfortable (it "throws" out the blade), the adjustment of the guide as well. The base of the Bosch saw can be set at different angles without using tools but there's some play within the 90° setting. The metal gear box of the Bosch gets quite hot even after using it for 10 min. The Festool is a lot better at cutting thick materials (80 mm beech and 120 mm pine). The Festool CP guide isn't as comfortable to adjust as the Bosch guide but it's way more precise.BTW, some customers from amazon also state that the Bosch gets hot pretty quickly.
You might like to check out some reviews of the Festool jigsaw:http://sawsndust.com/r-ps300eq-page1.shtmhttp://www.mv.com/users/besposito/woodworking/festool/index.html
Hope this helps,
Christian Aufreiter, Austria
I have the Festool and a comment I made in previous posts is that it get's hot very quickly. I have the barrelgrip version and it becomes uncomfortable to handle say within 5 minutes continuous use. Recently something worse happened; it actually bogged down during use (just cutting 3/4" plywood). I opened the housing, fortunately nothing mechanically was damaged. The problem was a small pin that controls the pendle motion of the blade. It was stuck due to dust, lack of lub and/or heat. (There's nothing in the manual about maintenance of some sort)
So yes the Festool is a great tool but not perfect.
Mmhh, never felt that the Festool heats up that quickly. I'd probably contact Festool and ask if that's normal. I don't know where you bought your saw but I can recommend to contact Bob Marino at [email protected]. Bob is Festool ISA and hobbywoodworker. I always receive great help when I have questions regarding Festool.You can also check out his website at http://festool.safeshopper.com/
Hope this helps,
Christian Aufreiter, Austria
Hi,
I agree with you that I ought to contact them. They should have a chance to react to my complaints. It's interesting to see how companies react to customer complaint especially if you feed them some technical data. So I will measure the temperature versus time and make some nice graphs. I will keep you informed about their response.
The heat is usually not a problem for me because typically I use it for seconds rather than minutes at a time.
Gert
(The Netherlands)
I think you made the right decision. Keep me posted, please.
Regards,
Christian
Thanks very much for your comments and the links -- Esposito's review was especialy helpful. He mentions that the Festool can be had for as little as $195, which is not that much more than the new Bosch 1590.
Also, I note that it can use the Bosch style blades, which to me is an advantage, since they are so readily available. Would you be able to say if they work as well as the blades mfg. by Festool?
$ 195 was the promotional price when Festool introduced the jigsaw last year. The current price is $ 250 (still less than in Austria and Germany). http://festool.safeshopper.com/397/cat397.htm?967Festool's USA website http://www.festool-usa.com/portando/index.cfm is more or less down at the moment, the consequence of some hacker and virus attacks as Festool's CEO stated on the yahoo Festool owner group. That's why I provided the link to Bob Marino's website. I never bought from him (would be impossible from Austria) but he's been very helpful.Correct, the Festool uses Bosch-style blades without problems. As far as I know Festool offers some extra thick blades in order to provide more precision along with the CP guide but I get fine results using Bosch blades as well.
Hope this helps,
Christian
Hi,
I tried to contact you privately using your email address but this was impossible. I received some important information about the issue you mentioned with your Festool jigsaw so please contact my at [email protected] as soon as possilbe.
Regards,
Christian
Christian,
I have been trying to hunt down a Festool jig saw in my area, largely because of your comments and the info you provided.
If you have some additional information, I wish you would pass it along through this thread, rather than by private email.
Thanks.
After I read FreeGee's comments on his jigsaw I asked Bob Marino (Festool ISA in the USA) what he thought about this problem. I usually contact Bob from time to time because I like to discuss about Festools with him. Bob forwarded my message to Christian Oltzscher (President and CEO of Festool USA). Mr. Oltzscher contacted Festool Germany and yesterday I received an email from Festool Germany's After Sales Service Manager who asked if I could provide FreeGee's email address because Festool would like to find out what was wrong and could be improved.
I don't think that this is of public interest but it definitely shows that Festool has an excellent customer service.
Regards,
Christian Aufreiter, Austria
I'm curious as to how AEG/Milwaukee is regarded/ranked/rated in your neck of the woods. Thanks
AEG/Milwaukee jigsaws don't seem to be very popular among professional users here. Pros prefer Festool and Bosch I think. A couple of years ago, a German magazine tested different high-end jigsaws and the Festool was rated best, followed by Bosch, Hilti (almost the same as Bosch) and Metabo. The Bosch saw which was reviewed has never been available in the USA, it was the GST 100 CE, here's a pic http://images-eu.amazon.com/images/P/B0001D1R2G.03.LZZZZZZZ.jpg. However, personally, I'm not always in favor of those tests.
Regards,
Christian
In a Tool of the Trades test the Metabo was bested by the Milwaukee. That and it's higher price and I gave it a pass. Saw the Festool demoed at a WW show. Impressive and so was the price. Better? ........ quite possibly. Worth $100 more? ........... not to me.
The festo really is worth it.
What makes it superior? I find my Milwaukee a considerable improvement over the previous Bosch. Smooth, plenty of power, well supported blade-cuts straight.
The three point blade guide system is superior to anything I have ever used it replaced an older Bosch its dust extraction system is also the most efficent ive seen in this country Australia we pay about $350.00US so it is a serious purchase.
I bought a Metabo jigsaw the other day - I'm in the UK so the models may not be the same but it's the STEB135. I bought it in favour of the Bosch one becuse I didn't think there was much in it and I ma very happy with the Metabo tools I own. I found that the blade wandered badly in less than inch thick material. The store let me swap it for the Bosch GST135BCE. Totally different league (but same price) - A STUNNING TOOL.
If you are looking for a fantastic piece of kit - without paying Festool's massively inflated prices then this is it!
Oh and by the way on the blade changing, it's good to know that its nor just me who has burn't or cut fingers! On this new Bosch (sound like i work for them but I don't) you press the blade change button and the blade literally flies out so you don't have to touch it at all.
T
Edited 10/12/2004 9:00 am ET by Tim
I have a Metabo STEB 105. Most excellent. I expect the 135 just out is better. Down cut blades help.
Not wanting to knock your Metabo suggestion but see my earlier thread about the Metabo 135 vs Bosch 135 - no comparison.
T
Tim Accepted
But I've had the saw nearly four years so things are bound to change. However its quite a workhorse and I like it.
Kind regards
Pete
Totally understand _ I have lots of tools that others would say are inferior or outdated but I love using them. My point was simply that I was able to test the latest top of the range Bosch vs the latest top of the range Metabo and I noted a significant difference even though they are the same price.
T
Bosch no question about it. Blades are a bit more expensive, but the quality and durability are excellent. Had mine for at least 20 years now..the old kind where you need a thin screwdriver to change blades..easier on the newer models.
Johnny
Bosch
Take a look at the Grizzly saw. It's very similar to the Bosch but much less expensive. I have one and have no complaints.
Go with the BOSCH, i couldn't be more satisfied for the money.
Pete
Pete-- Deep in Cajun Country
One Nation UNDER GOD
I have the Festool (barrel grip) and it is a very nice tool that I don't think I would trade for anything else that I have had the opportunity to try, but clearly haven't tried all of them that are out there. I have never had the heat build up problem mentioned above, but probably don't use mine for more than 10 minutes at a time before I am taking a break to change a setup, swap pieces, etc.
Blade control is great, plenty of power, blade tracking is good both on straight lines and curves. The splinter guard is nice and is very effective as was mentioned earlier. However, the one negative that I have found is that with both the splinter guard and the front shroud on, I have somewhat of a hard time seeing the blade and the cut line. I don't doubt that some of the problem is that my eyesight isn't what it used to be and that I am getting older and more decrepit by the day, but I often end up taking one or both of these peices off, particularly when cutting tight curves that need to be cut closely to the line.
As is generally the case, this one seems to be an example of you get what you pay for - all and all a very fine tool, but comes at fairly fine price as well.
I agree that it's sometimes hard to see the blade on the Festool saw, especially when using the splinter guard and the front chip guard. But I have the impression that this is a problem of all new jigsaws which offer good dust collection.Many professionals use their jigsaws "upside down" or "unter dem Tisch" (word by word translation: "under the table"). As a consequence the blade is clearly visible and there's absolutely no tear out at the upper side of the board.
Regards,
Christian
I have the Bosch JS, too, and love it. DO NOT buy the Dewalt. I've got lots of yellow tools, but this one is known for being a dog. I had one; it never tracked properly, had to be taken to the shop when it froze up with a broken part inside, and then a cast metal part on the body snapped while cutting 3/8" ply--all within the first year. I returned and exchanged it for the Bosch.
BoschScott C. Frankland
Scott's WOODWORKING Website"He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."
The festool model300eq is superb although expensive it wiil cut 4ins deep square I have been using one now for about ayear including using their guide rail system lluckily for you it costs less in the US than it does in Australia.
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