Cordless Drill – Which voltage?
Charles_Wilson
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
I am new to woodworking and was interested in what voltage cordless drill ( 12v, 14.4v, 18v or other) you typicaly use for your woodworking projects as I would like to get a new one
Thanks,
Chuck
Replies
My understanding as someone who's just started to research this very question:
Higher voltage means higher torque (power). They've also improved the batteries for each generation so the higher the voltage, the better the tool power/battery life. New 28v tools came out not too long ago and people are starting to talk about shifting to them but not every manufacture has made the leap yet and the ones who have don't have the full range of 28v tools (I want a jigsaw for instance).
So currently the big sets right now are 18v which most people seem to love and the prices have been falling with the introduction of the 28v tools. I'm broke so I'm waiting for both money and additional 28v tools to come out.
Chuck: Voltage is only one part of the equation, even the tools of lower quality are available in various voltage. I have a 14.4 volt Milwaukee that has done fine for ten or so years, replaced the original batteries with NIMH ones; they keep a charge longer. Just bought my son a Panasonic 15.5 volt driver drill that seems very solid, lots of power and came stock with NIMH batteries for about $200. Also there is always a premium for the latest "thing" so if you drop back a notch to last years voltage or style you can find a great tool at a good price. One company that makes excellent tools and is rarely spoken of is Hilti, pricy though.
Good Luck, Duke
Kenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
Your right, Hilti, which is an industrial tool manufacturer, makes a nice compact, low voltage, high torge cordless. I picked one up one time at a big box and when I pulled the trigger, the thing just reeked of quality. Kind of like sitting down in a Benz, but your right, it is pricey. This one was close to $250. But I had to wonder, would it be the last one I would ever have to buy?
Edited 5/23/2006 9:07 am ET by RonT
Edited 5/23/2006 9:10 am ET by RonT
Ron: Your last line touched on a point that is important but not often talked about: if you buy that Hilti or Mercedes or any device at the top of its class what do you do when repair time comes? What if the repair is more costly then buying a new, lesser quality unit? Nothing lasts for ever, except certain STD's. I believe the answer must be that the pleasure of owning and using the fancy whatever must outweigh the potential repair costs figuring in the better performance and hopefully the longer life span, and maybe a slightly higher resale value. I personally ere on the side of quality and have not been disappointed other then once or twice in 56 years.
DukeKenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
The Bill of Rights March 1962..
My future wife said I cannot hit her.. And have to put my signature to it.. I told her.. HAY why! You can beat me UP!
Ron: Your last line touched on a point that is important but not often talked about: if you buy that Hilti or Mercedes or any device at the top of its class what do you do when repair time comes? What if the repair is more costly then buying a new, lesser quality unit?
What about "when repair time comes?", isn't that the reason the purchase was made in the first place, to buy quality and hopefully forego repairs until the end of your woodworking days. Nothing is a sure thing, however. It's hard to jump back into the american automobile once you have taken that trip driving the Benz. You'll repair or buy in kind.
I have put off buying a new table saw because the 45 year old saw my dad passed down to me can't be touched in todays market unless I move into a pricey cabinet saw. Who knows, I may pass it down to my grandson!
Most of the popular high quality brands companies of yesteryear, including the blue and grey, have gone by way of quantity in lieu of quality. Thank God for Hilti and Festool.
Saw the new Bosch 10.8V Pocket Driver in the latest FHB. It's Li-ion and supposed to be able to drive 100 3-inch screws on a single charge and fit in your pocket. Sounds perfect for the shop. A few other posts mentioned that it packs a pretty good punch. Not so much for drilling over a 1/2-inch diameter, but most of what I do is pilot holes, etc. And for the price, it sounds awesome with a :30 charger. There's another tool (I-Driver), that articulates to 90 degrees for tight spots. These seem to be a nice balance between power and weight. Bosch calls it a complement to higher voltage tools. And I don't think any other manufacturer has gone this route.
Take a look at Metabo's Power Max for another pocket sizer.http://www.metabousa.com/uploads/media/p38-45Cordless.pdfSince the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
It is interesting, but their compact tool is only 4.8V. The Bosch is 10.8V, more than twice as much battery... I think all the real compact tools are less voltage too... Thanks for passing this along.
http://www.boschtools.com/tools/tools-subcategory.htm?H=189200&G=70084
Twice the voltage is not neccesarily twice the battery. I was'nt able to find the amp hour rating on the Bosch, the Metabo's is 1.25ah. Would be nice to compare apples to apples. I see that the torque ratings are the same. The Metabo comes with 2 batteries and has a three year warranty that covers the batteries too. Nice to see the manufacturers are making some potent tools in more easy to manage packages.Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
Good point. If it is the same or more, then we are talking a bigger battery for the Bosch. I can't imagine that a battery half the voltage would be able to keep up in the long run, though. Maybe Metabo could have done a higher voltage if it was lithium-ion over NiCad. Either way, I agree it is impressive what the manufacturers are doing these days...
Voltage has nothing to do with keeping up, it's all in how much energy is stored in the battery.Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
Voltage has nothing to do with keeping up, it's all in how much energy is stored in the battery.Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. LOL LOL..Reminds me of my old neighborhood I grew up in.. Someboby yells.. SMOKE.. Sombody else yells,, My wife is Cookin' again....I'm a electrical engineers? Voltage pushes that current!! Well, in my brain it does, BUT, then again, I'm not Carl Sagan... With Billiona and Billions of Volts or Amps..
I see you are another victim of the American Public School System. Fancy title and no knowledge. Maybe this analogy will help you out. Your cordless drill is a waterwheel on a stream, the amount of water in the stream is the voltage, the speed at which the water moves through the wheel is the current and the amount of water behind the dam feeding the stream is the amp-hours.
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
What about the size of the wheel? larger diameter water wheels draw more amps, and if the width of the water wheel is too wide (voltage too high) it will not fit in the river. Kind of like my 18 v. cordless tool batteries wont fit in a 12 v. tool. Of course batteries don't float very well. THats a lot to think about.
Heh heh,
An American Public School educated Mike
The local Rockler carries the small Metabo, but ~$160 for ~4-volts seems a little steep to me. What's your experience with this product tell you about its value?
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Metabo is expensive but that being said Rockler is a little high. You should be able to find it for $149. Bear in mind this is for 2 batteries and it comes with a drill chuck that will take any size bit up to 1/4 inch, not just the sizes you can find in hex shank. All metal gears and a fiberglass reinforced case. It's one tough little mama. I haven't had a chance to look at the Bosch yet but with their battery tools in general I've been disapointed with the quality since they started coming out of Mexico a coule years ago. We used to win bets in the store with the Metabo 12v drill, we would hook it to a customers Dewalt 18v XRP drill and the Metabo would turn it backwards. A customer's took a 3 story drop onto concrete and all it did was crack the case. Took 2 days to get a new case (under 20 bucks) and 10 minutes to swap out the guts. Their batteries typically last four times longer than others.Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
Thanks!-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Checked on the AMP rating for the Pocket Driver at Home Depot, where they are carrying it near me. It is 1.3 AMP, 2 batteries, 30-minute charger and $130. I'd have to think that at twice the voltage and a smidge bigger AMP, it would offer considerably more power in more heavy-duty applications. I didn't pick it up, b/c my wife has been asking me about Father's Day gifts...it's on the list. Warranty isn't for life (3-years), but I have a hard time with products with that kind of warranty. It seems like they are expecting it to fail. The flip side is that they think it will last forever. I am not sure which it is, but it just leaves a bad taste in my mouth. There is certainly some pretty cool stuff out there now?
Let me know if anyone else has hear anything. I am surprised by the price, as I heard the liion tools were a bit more pricey than NiCad, but it seems not.
I use a 14.4v Makita with NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries. For me it was the right combination of power/weight/price. More omph than a 12v but not as heavy as a 18v. Their new 18v Lithium Ion line is impressive- 12v tool size with 18v power but at this point in time they are pretty pricey.
Bear in mind that you can put a nickel metal hydryde NIMH battery on the charger 500 times versus the nickel cadmium's 1000 times. The NIMH has about 20 pct. more run time but half the life. The NIMH also has a shorter shelf life between charges, around two weeks max usable. If you use it on a heavy profrssional basis the NIMH might be the better bet for more occasional use go with the Ni-Cad. The Lithium - Ion systems are too new to know . I have heard that the Makita and Milwaukee Li system chargers cook the batteries to death too soon. From what I hear from the manufacturers and users only Metabo's Li systems hold up. Unfortunately they don't have a complete line of tools as yet.
So, which brand? I was thinking of the Ridgid line. Hard to argue with a lifetime warranty for every piece of equipment. Thoughts?Chuck
How much of your lifetime are you willing to spend going back to swap out the tool and how hard do you intend to use it?
Batteries won't usually be covered under any warranty for long and they will need replacement. They can cost, for a pair, 1/2 the price of a new drill. The new 28 volt Milwaukee batteries are about $120 each!
Duke
Kenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
Edited 5/21/2006 9:44 am by dukeone
The Ridgid warranty really is a lifetime warranty. You buy one Ridgid battery and you've bought your last battery for that tool. Home Depot is very good about observing and being faithful to the warranty.
Guy; Thats a new one on me, I've never read a warranty that included, for life, batteries. I was in the local Home Depot yesterday, went through the tool department (didn't buy a thing!!) it was well stocked with all variaty of tools. I looked at some Hilti drills, very solid feeling. My Milwaukee 14.4 volt drill has the motor going bad, it is a sealed can, not serviceable. I do have a pair of newer battteries for it so when it goes I'll buy a bare bones tool only (no batteries, charger or case) replacement. If the batteries are going bad when the motor finally dies I'll look around at what is available then. My son has a 15.5 volt Panasonic that looks real solid. Duke
Kenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
The Ridgid warranty really is a lifetime warranty. You buy one Ridgid battery and you've bought your last battery for that tool. Home Depot is very good about observing and being faithful to the warranty. ..I went to my local Big-Box and was told that my saw was on two year warranty? Well, I lost, but I did find a paper in my drawer of old collected 'new stuff I bought' that said it also..I still like my Ridgid stuff.. But I'm old and will probably not outlive a lifetime warranty anyway!
Be sure to read others' remarks about batteries & chargers too. Don't miss the one about heat and batteries.I am squeaky cheap about cordless drills. Currently have a closeout Craftsman 14.4-v. with extra battery & 1-hour charger. Since it usually takes over an hour for charge depletion, I always have a battery ready when I need a fresh one. It has more torque than I need. For larger jobs I get out my 1/2-inch 110-v unit with auxiliary handle bar.My pet peeve is keyless chucks. They slip badly on round bits. I notice that hex shanks are becoming more available, so save up to buy them. The other choice for me is to replace the chuck with one from my junk box.Cadiddlehopper
Cheap drill cheap chuck, there are very good keyless chucks out there, Metabo's Futura chuck is excellent Fein uses it on their drills also and Panasonic also puts a good chuck on their drills.
I said I was cheap about cordless drills. I can live with a key.Cadiddlehopper
You can buy the chucks separately, 25-30 bucks.
Cadiddlehopper!!LOL... My Grandpa use to say that all the time? (He had lots' of funny sayins') I have no idea why because that was BEFORE old Red Skelton? Not sure if that name is spells' correctly?Anyway, your point about the keyless chuck is a good one. They are 'nice' ..BUT.. your point about them slipping reminds me of why I have that fine tooth mill file next to my cheep twist drills.. LOL
The "lifetime waurantee" isn't worth the price of the paper it is written on if you don't have a Ridgid service center nearby. If all that you are going to use the tool for is woodworking then 14.4 or 12V is all you need. You might check around and see if there are any deals on a combo drill/impact driver set. It is both easier and faster to change tools than to keep changing bits and torque settings. Personally, I own a selection of Dewalt 14.4V drills and drivers. Use mine for both woodworking and as a carpenter. The local service center can get it back in my hands the next day if I need it, small repairs are done while I wait no problem. I can't say the same about Milwaukee (repeated experience).
All I can say is that I have a 12 volt drill that now days only gets used by my wife after getting a 14.4 volt drill. Now my 14.4 gets used mostly for drilling holes and seldom as a driver. The 18 volt drill almost always has a driver bit chucked in it and is used mostly for driving screws along with an occasional large Spade bit/Forstner bit job that can't be done on the drill press, as I know it will have the torque to do those jobs.
If I could do it all over again, I would have two 18 volt drills for myself and a 12 volt for my wife to use.
Regardless of the drill you use, don't put a "hot" battery into the charger if you want to have them last as long as possible. Heat kills batteries real fast and got into the habit of charging "yesterday's batteries" first thing the next morning and then let them sit until needed. I will also at times will change out a battery during a long project when I feel it getting hot from heavy use even if it has power left in it to let it cool down.
Terry
Santa Barbara,CA
Edited 5/21/2006 12:19 am ET by SantaBarbaraSawDust
Charles,
I've used a Makita 12v drill/driver for some years now and find it perfect for woodworking. The torque and run time are very good but not excessive. By "excessive" I mean, strong enough to twist your arm if you're driving and the screw stops. I have a friend who is a plasterer and he bought himself an 18v for his drywalling and such. He's forever twisting his wrist with it.
Mind you, I only use the 12v Makita for small jobs, as a floor standing drill press does most of the big drilling. I suppose a more powerful portable drill would be appropriate if you take the tool to the work rather than the work to the tool.
As others have pointed out, its the torque rather than the voltage that you should look at, as some drill motors are a lot more efficient than others. I seem to remember that FWW did a good test not so long ago, which made this and other factors (like the battery life and the comfort) very clear. Have you looked in the FWW index page?
An additional thought - like all their tools, the Festool drill/driver is as close to functional perfection as you're likely to see in such a tool. It has the usual high build quality of Festool but is configured for different grips and has some truly useful add-on chucks for getting into tight places. Naturally, it costs a small fortune. I played with one at a tool fest and was sorely tempted.
Lataxe
Edited 5/21/2006 10:15 am ET by Lataxe
I have four 14.4 battery operated drills. One charger left! Geeee... three went Ka-Put! I wont mention the brand but all are YELLOW! The drills are good BUT them dang batteries. They seem to know when you REALLY need to finish the job and c*** out on you... As the batteries get older the drills no longer perform well for any length of time.
All I can say is they mostly sit in a drawer now and I use my 1/2" 115 volt electric dill I bought in 1970 or so these days.
I went to get some batteries and a new charger.. I saw the cost and got 75 feet of 3 wire 30 amp cable, outlet box, receptacles, twist lock plug, and a new hammer drill for about the same cost. I now have a 75 foot 220/115 extension cord and a new drill!
I can live with the extension cord. I'm not exactly a cheapskate BUT I just hate the cost of one battery and charger costing almost as much as good quality drill! Just me..
If I used a drill up on a roof or something every day, maybe I would have a different opinion.
Will: A shorted battery can fry a charger! The carpenter shop at work would bring cordless tools over for repair with the same complaint: battery won't charge in charger after charger: meaning the one bad battery fried all the chargers! Newer chargers are protected against this risk. If your into it there is a thermal "fuse" in the charger that pops quick with a bad battery and can be easily replaced. It looks like a small metal can with a pointed end about the thickness of a pencil 3/8" long or so.
Duke
Kenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
Edited 5/22/2006 9:43 pm by dukeone
Thanks for the reply on that.However, my chargers for my YELLOW drill was suppose to blink like crazy if the battery was bad and you tried to charge it. I never forced it to.
I just hate the cost of one battery and charger costing almost as much as good quality drill!
I know what you mean, my charger is still fine, and the drill I bought came with 2 batteries. The batteries are holding a charge for 30 - 60 min each now and in looking at the cost of replacing them - to replace both batteries will cost 75% - 80% of what I paid for the whole unit - drill, charger, 2 batteries and case! In the meantime, I have my 1/2" corded drill and extension cords - it is real powerful and does not run out of power. But, that being said, I am looking, at my leisure, to replace the cordless and will probably go with 15.5v - 18v - I have heard some good things about the panasonic and am looking at that.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
it really all depends on what you intend to use the drill for. If you will just be drilling pilot holes, for instance, even a wimpy drill will handle that.
Personally, I have a line up of Panasonics -- 12v and 15.6v. If I were buying just one, it would be a 15.6v -- which will drill big and little holes, and will drive screws.
If your work involves driving a lot of screws, you really ought to consider an impact driver. In the Panasonic line I have both the 12v and the 15.6v -- and I prefer the 12 v, for its small size without any apparent loss of power (vs. the 15.6.
the ideal would be to have at least one drill and one impact driver.
********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
"the ideal would be to have at least one drill and one impact driver."
Hi NW,
I bought the Panasonic 15.6-v multi-driver a few years ago and haven't looked back. It functions as a drill, driver, and impact wrench thanks to the 1/2" square drive to which you can attach either a keyless drill chuck or a 1/4" hex-shank driver; you can also snap on 1/2"-drive sockets. One of the unexpected benefits is that, in impact driver mode, I've been able to remove cammed-out phillips screws that other tools wouldn't budge.
The drawbacks are that (1) it's noisy in the impact mode, (2) users are admonished not to use the drill chuck in the impact mode, and (3) it cost considerably more than the run of the mill drill/driver.
This is one of those tools that my friends ask to borrow, and that I would definitely replace if lost, damaged, or stolen.
Sawdust in your shoes,
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
The July, 2006 issue of Fine Homebuilding, which arrived yesterday, has an extensive article on lithium-ion batteries and how tools with these batteries compare with the older style batteries.
I've been buying battery drills since Black and Decker came out with one of the first ones in the 60's. The darned things are so expensive compared to a corded drill, and they don't last all that long. The new generation of battery drills are much better these days but some of the models are over $250. I use them every day commercially. I'm too jaded by past experience to spend big bucks. I want light weight, cheap replacement batteries, good clutch and a low price. I've found everything I wanted with one of these.
http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,527.html
I think you make a good point. At $60, you could buy 3 of these Ryobis for the price of one Panasonic. But there is zero snob appeal in owning a Ryobi..........********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
You will need a lot more than three of the Ryobi's to cover the lifetime of the Panasonic. It's not unusual for them to go 10 years in commercial use.
I've never owned a Ryobi, so I can't say how long they'll last. But I do think there is a lot of snob appeal involved in the tool decisions we make, even though most deny it. But I am ready to admit I'm one of the worst offenders.I don't know, for instance, if Festool products are really that much better than their lower priced competitors, but I do know that when I trot out my array of Festool stuff, everybody gathers around and want to know about the tools.After Festool becomes ubiquitous, then it will be something else. Metabo has this line of eye-popping tools on the European market, and I would guess they will have that same snob appeal effect when they start coming to the U.S.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Metabo is available in the US now but you won't find them at the Borg. Very nice stuff but I'm not so sure they have any snob cache. Solid well thought out tools.P.S. by the way their 3 year warranty covers their batteries too with no disclaimer for commercial use either, they build for the professional market.
Edited 5/21/2006 11:57 pm ET by dgreen
No, the Metabo stuff I'm talking about has not yet been introduced to the American Market -- saws, and such.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
If you are talking about the SCM's and the table saw and the Circ. saw they have been in the US since January of last year. Yhe west coast debut was in Vegas Jan. 2005. Was there, sold lots of them since.
I don't know exactly what I'm talking about............ I saw all this on a Metabo website (probably from the UK) about 6 months ago, and I can only remember being kind blown away with ingenuity and design of the offerings.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I HAD FRIENDS at the woodshop till I told them that I just browwed the Festool!
I used a 2 speed 12V Ryobi around the house and in the shop for years before the batteries crapped out. After shopping for a replacement, at near $200 dollars, I opted for a $44 Ryobi replacement. I don't like it as well and can't keep a charge but would consider another at two speed and a different battery.
When it comes to a woodworking cordless, a major consideration that few of you have mentioned is access to tight spaces. The higher the voltage, the longer and bulkier the drill. The drill is worthless if you can't put where you need it. My original 12V had all the power needed to work any hardwood and could drive any screw.
Edited 5/23/2006 9:08 am ET by RonT
I've got five years of hard daily use on my Ryobi. Bought a new battery a while back, $23.97. Any of the big boys that want to go toe to toe, better pack a lunch. You know I'm not a hobbyist. If a tool doesn't perform without apology, it won't be in my box and I would not recommend it. When other workers on the job have used my drill, they make a comment that starts with "holy...!!!"Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
zero snob appeal in owning a Ryobi..........Somewhat of topic but if I had money I could afford to be a 'snob'..I have 'several' RYOBI routers I use all the time.. I like them ALOT.
No drill though..
I haven't read the other posts so I may just be repeating others recomendations. I think that you have three choices.
1. A 14 volt drill/ driver is powerfull enough for any woodworking need and it is considerably lighter and more compact. Size matters when trying to attatch hardware in a narrow cabinet. It is a great all around tool.
2. a 12 volt impact driver is (IMO) the best tool for driving screws and bolts. They are very light, very compact, have a 1/4" hex quick change chuck, are as powerfull as the big 18 volt drills and they can drill holes up to about 1/8" or so. However you still need a drill for larger holes, because the torque of an impact driver will snap a drill bit.
3. An 18 volt set has versitility and value on its side. You can get a 5 piece 18 volt set for about double the cost of a cordless drill. The 18 volt driver will turn auger bits and hole saws the a 14 volt drill will stall on. But the size and weight of an 18 volt tool is a major disadvantage.
Mike
add me to the list of satisfied ryobi owners . my last one lasted 6 years . cant beat them for the money . I see a lot of them on jobsites around here . I too have been using cordless since the mikita 7.2 that really didnt do a lot but hey it was cordless Ive owned several makitas , two milwakees ,a dewalt .and now on my second ryobi I'm looking to get a job done , not to impress the other guy (the money I save lets me buy more tools )
Your 6 year old one may have been a real Ryobi, I believe TTI bought them out in 1999. Same name waaaaay different tool.Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
Absolute best buy in cordless drills is an old 8" or 10" sweep Millers Falls or Stanley bit brace. No worries about batteries, worn worm gears or any of that, they're virtually indestructable, and nearly any bit will fit in them. Best of all, you can control the torque -- lots or little, as required. One additional bonus is that they're inexpensive: $5 to maybe $50, depending on where you buy it.
A bit of practice (pun intended) and you'll find that it will do everything an electron munching drill will do and more.
James
Hi James,
In all seriousness, what are the most important things you would tell someone about a bit brace to keep them from making a regretable purchase?
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
<<In all seriousness, what are the most important things you would tell someone about a bit brace to keep them from making a regretable purchase?>> Let me preface my answer by stating that my knowledge on bit braces is fairly limited. I have one (an old Stanley 923-8, that I picked up for $15 in a used tool shop) that I use for a large portion of my drilling/boring operations. Having said that, here's a bit (sorry -- couldn't resist) to help out in what to look for when buying an old brace: Condition of the wood (firmly attached; aesthetics are up to the buyer) Condition of the bearings on the pad (should move freely, but not have a lot of wiggle-around looseness) Whether the ratcheting mechanism (if present) works freely and actually works (should cause turning/ratcheting in the appropriate directions; should move between modes freely but with a firm twist required) Whether the jaws open and close smoothly and freely (jaws should retract and advance cleanly, smoothly, and together) Condition of the jaws, themselves (look for severe dings, chunks missing, etc) Overall condition -- rust, dings and dents, bends, etc. (Some are ok, as long as they don't negatively affect the function of the brace) Some of the old tool restoration books (like Mike Dunbar's) go into more detail, but the above covers most of the really important things for a user tool.James
I have a 14.4v milwaukee. Has all the power I'll ever need, but it's too much for smaller woodworking tasks (and heavy). My next cordless will be a 12-volt -- hopefully a Festool.
TF
I finally got tired of either replacing DeWalt batteries or drills every few years and got a Panasonic 15.6V a couple of months ago. The only thing about it I don't like is the lack of (usable) on-board bit storage like the DeWalt's. Other than that it's got enough torque to twist your shoulder out of it's socket and so far it's still working on the original battery charge as it was shipped. It's lighter weight than the DW as well. Fantastic drill but there is a bit of sticker shock when you're contemplating buying.
If you build it he will come.
Doug: My son has the 15.5v Panasonic, it seems real solid. My problem is this; my 14.4v Milwaukee has a bad motor, just sent it off to factory service center where it may still be covered under warrenty so just postage for out of pocket expense. Problem is I have two fairly new NIMH batteries for it that I want to continue to use, so if it is not covered I'll buy a bare bones (no charger or batteries) Milwaukee replacement to fit my batteries/charger. I could keep the batteries just for the 14.4v flashlight which is usefull around the shop, otherwise I'd be looking at Panasonic or Hilti. I was looking for an excuse to buy something new again but looks like not this time. KDMKenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
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