While these are actually two separate but related questions, they collided for me today (yet again) while gluing up a picture frame.
I have yet to be satisfied with an approach to gluing up 90 degree corners that actually works well, and doesn’t send me into Anxiety Land. I’ve tried simple clamps (along with 90 degree corner forms),and the commercial 90 degree corner clamping fixtures but found neither of them promise an easy and reliable fit no matter how much I prepare for the gluing process.
I could use some sage advice based on experience from you folks. While not a fan of the right angle clamp fixture, I note that Housolution is selling a 90 angle clamp that has received good reviews. BUT, I also note that Bessy makes a strap clamp system that uses plastic 90 degree wijits to clamp all four corner at once. Both appear to allow easy access to clean up any squeeze out and allows for a double check for square with diagonal measurements.
Anyone have actual experience with one of these approaches , or a strong opinion about which has the better chance of success?
Am I the only guy who goes into glue up with, however well prepared with a dry fit, clean up at hand, etc, yet with a clenched jaw expecting some issue of another ?
Replies
Band clamps work pretty well for frames , getting the frame corners centered in the plastic 90 is key when glueing thinner stock, slide a little block under the corners, if not sometimes the 90 will try to slip up and you’ll find yourself floundering and probably cursing. Get them situated and chinch it up, easily done and easy to shift around for a perfect line up . I like them
If gluing one at a time then perhaps a corner clamp?
I have never used them, but instead rely on accurate cutting (yeah, right) and squaring by measuring diagonals.
If you check out Bourbo Moth YouTube channel though, he is a pro and uses woodpeckers clamps. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D89WeF52XwcI&ved=2ahUKEwiQ8bjv5_zuAhU5wzgGHdg1BacQ28sGMAF6BAgBEDI&usg=AOvVaw0302aYpudNRsytOs61qtTu
“[Deleted]”
I’ve had good outcomes with plastic corner band clamps. Work on a flat substrate such as MDF and raise the frame with setup blocks to center it in the corners. The setup blocks tops should be glue resistant (wax or tape). Immobilize one frame piece by double-sided taping it to the substrate — this step keeps the whole thing from moving around on you. After glue up, tighten the strap and gently tap the frame corners flush against the setup blocks.
Or maybe try this ?
Lee Valley have a frame clamp that allows easy access to the frame once it's in the clamp. It makes it easy to slacken-adjust-retighten things to ensure the joints are all properly aligned.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/hand-tools/clamps/31162-veritas-4-way-speed-clamp.
They also sell the sprung-point clamps, applied and removed with a special pincer. These do leave pin-pricks in the outside edges of the frame but they're small and sand off easily when you come to final finishing the frame. The springs are easily put on and taken off until you have it all right, if a little pin-pricked.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/hand-tools/clamps/54189-spring-clamps-and-pliers-set?item=17F8403.
I do have a couple of strap clamps that have a metal strap housed in a round magazine, with the strap going through four metal corner brackets that clasp the frame corners. The whole clamp is tightened and slackened by turning it's barrel handle then locking the metal strap, when tight, with a screw-lever.
https://www.fine-tools.com/G301155.html
The metal strapper is much easier to use than a fabric-strap frame clamp of similar design as it has less flop to it than the fabric strap variety.
All of these clamps allow the clamper to adjust the frame to get it square and flat beore a final tighten. However, having a small domino, biscuit or other other spline type in the frame part ends, to align the mitre joints as well as to strengthen them, makes clamping them up much easier.
Making the mitres (as well as the frame part lengths & thicknesses) very accurately also tends to an easier clamp-up. If the degrees are not all an exact 45 with their faces square, you'll find the clamp revealing this one way or another, no matter how carefully you apply the graspers. :-)
Mitred frames are a good test of one's joinery skills, eh?
Lataxe
When I do picture frames or mirror frames these days, they are two part frames. The meat of the frame is rectangular pieces half lapped at the corners and glued up. If anything is out of square, it can be trimmed after they are dry.
Stage 2 is applying the moldings the face. They are just decorative and not structural, so the miters only need to look pretty. They are clamped flat, straight down, rather thantrying to pull it all together.
It's reduced anxiety for glueups, and the frame is much stronger. It doesn't matter much for pictures, but for a heavy mirror frame it makes a big difference.
I use Merle clamps all the time:
https://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v415-9012/best_sellers
Recently I had a live edge frame to do, I went with cup hooks and rubber bands. (see photos)
I put the straight ones on first, when I added the diagonal ones the joints closed up almost without my help.
I'm a big fan of the Bessey band clamps. I have two of them in case the depth of the sides requires both for even pressure. And they're great for shapes that are not square like the bridle joint frame in the attached photo.
THANKS all...I knew you'd come through. Great ideas all around. I had seen the Dieter aka Merle strap clamp in photos but couldn't find it with a net search. At this point I think I'll either go with a couple of the Bessey straps or spend the $$ and try the more sophisticated version.
(Never seen a fame "clamped up" with rubber bands before !)
Steve
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I've tried this "string and block" method on a few recent frames and had very good luck
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2014/09/12/make-a-splined-miter-picture-frame-without-clamps
I have had good luck with these types of clamps
https://www.rockler.com/frame-clamp-kit?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9YWDBhDyARIsADt6sGYvytncVgH2nJO73rtNuZtAL0ko8Dz5XiWTP00ilSMCUPepnPWlYsoaAs2QEALw_wcB
Warren
I just flatten the rounded edges of 2x4s and shellac them. When I need them I stand them in the corners, glue then clamp the corners.
Mikaol
I avoid mitred corners whenever I can. I've made some Arts & Crafts style frames with exposed mortise and tenon joinery and I'll never go back to mitres.
+1 on the Lee Valley or other's 4-way speed clamp. You can also make your own helpers.
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