Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | Jul 27, 2005 06:24am | #1

   I have one of those corner squaring chisels that you position in the rounded corner and whack with a hammer.  Even if it doesn't get all the waste with one whack, it leaves a nice, clean edge.

2. 
   Dan | Jul 27, 2005 06:42am | #2

   Aloha,

   Try using the same technique as used for doing dovetails.  Mark the line with your chisel about 1/8 inch deep, then take out a small chip from the waste side at about a 45 degree angle.  Then continue down taking reasonably thin flakes out.

   Mistakes are but an opportunity for fresh design!
3. 
   philip | Jul 27, 2005 08:42am | #3

   Ken,
   If the "untidiness" is on the vertical edges then you can use Dan's method, or you just chop down vertically, but you creep up to the line.
   If you are having trouble with the bottom of the rebate then use a small diameter straight bit (say 5 or 6mm), set to correct depth, and you can thus make the remaining amount to be chiseled a lot smaller.
   (I'm sure you have more than one router?)
   However, being suspicious by nature, I am wandering if your chisels are sharp enough <G> ?

4. 
   Steinmetz | Jul 27, 2005 12:23pm | #4

   Duke, Support your work atop a heavy surface to absorb the shock from 'whacking'
   A point on your workbench directly over a leg or above a cement block will also do.

   Some cabinet makers swear by using a hollow chisel for just that purpose. Be sure to strike the tool with a wood mallet.
   Steinmetz.

5. 
   jackplane | Jul 27, 2005 04:22pm | #5

   sharp chisels, as in microscopically sharp.

    

1. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 27, 2005 04:45pm | #6

   On this type of work, I generally use a marking knife to set the corner out, and the chop cross grain, creeping up on the corner. This will give a clean and crisp corner.Alan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

2. 
   jackplane | Jul 27, 2005 05:39pm | #7

   A marking knife works well too.

   Not to belabor the point, but there is a reason why in Japan where traditional apprentices undergo a seven year program, year one is only concerned with sharpening.... 

6. 
   Ricks503 | Jul 27, 2005 06:09pm | #8

   Use a marking knife, or even a utility knife to score the cut, and then make sure to go slow and easy

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
7. 
   generalkael | Jul 27, 2005 06:17pm | #9

   I agree with the corner chisel tool. I have one of these from Whiteside and love it. It's simple to use and leaves great results.

8. 
   mike4244 | Jul 27, 2005 09:37pm | #10

   Mark the lines with a knife. Deepen the lines with knife, with the grain be careful the grain doesn't make the knife wander. From the waste side, remove a thin chip, maybe a 1/32" thick. Then you deepen the cut straight down with a chisel, the chisel won't wander as it is against the line where the chip was removed.Now you can remove thicker chips. Repeat until you're done. Most of the time I do not use a knife. I use a wide paring chisel to mark out the lines. A chisel that is about twice as wide as the line works well. The wide chisel lines up with the rabbet, then push down and mark the length of line to the corner. If you use a corner chisel, make sure you orient the chisel square with the rabbets, very easy to go out of square with a corner chisel.With hinges this is not a big deal, but for a glass top table it could be.

   If the appearance of the rabbet you have done does not appeal to you, make the rabbet wider, glue a border inlay in on all four sides.This will eliminate the botched rabbet. You may not need to though, see how it looks after the glass is in.

   mike

9. 
   mudman | Jul 27, 2005 11:40pm | #11

   Sounds like it is too late, but there is no reason a good chisel shouldnt leave a perfect surface. Chop it out shy of the line then pare off the rest flush to the existing edge.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
1. 
   dukeone | Jul 28, 2005 02:51am | #12

   Thanks all, I will try the various ideas you have passed on to me although there are only two corners left on this project. I do believe my chisels are sharp, but I am a beginner so how do I know? They catch my skin with the slightest touch and will shave thin shavings off of most wood without a hammer or much pressure, I guess that is at least ok. I also use a strop frequently while working. This is my third table and only my fourth serious WW project and the joints on this one are much cleaner and better fitting then the previous ones. Many miles to go though and all your advice is helping.

   Thanks, KDMKenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

1. 
   mudman | Jul 28, 2005 08:37pm | #13

   Try practiceing on the sane type of wood. Rout a stopped rabbit, then square it off.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 29, 2005 09:18pm | #14

   This is my third table and only my fourth serious WW project and the joints on this one are much cleaner and better fitting then the previous ones. Geeee.. Ya gettin' there! I been tryin' for 40 years and just gettin' the hang' of it!

1. 
   dukeone | Jul 30, 2005 02:40am | #15

   George: You should have seen the last ones!!Kenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

3. 
   mikegagne | Jul 30, 2005 09:59am | #16

   duke-one writes
   <They catch my skin with the slightest touch and will shave thin shavings off of most wood without a hammer or much pressure, I guess that is at least ok>duke, cutting hair is not a measure of sharpness of the same quality as raising a curl off your fingernail. When you can slide the chisel across your nail and do that then you are way sharper than hair cutting is. Work on the sharpness of the instrument and it will perform to your highest expectation and beyond...... aloha, mike