Replies

1. 
   LarryES | Jan 23, 2004 03:03pm | #1

   Crimping is fine until it gets bumped. 

   Usually the crimped is ok until some other procedure takes place like baseboard or countertop.

   I shot long staples in my own house, and added liquid nails in the high traffic areas. So far it has held up great, (four kids).

   I like the plastic better also, I used bullnose bead. The metal dents.

2. 
   Shep | Jan 24, 2004 12:20am | #2

       I've put on the metal corners by first spraying both the metal and the drywall with 3M's high strength spray contact adhesive and then using the crimper. I don't quite trust the crimper alone, but the 3M really holds everything together.

1. 
   shoemaker | Jan 24, 2004 02:22am | #3

   thats a great idea i usually put a layer of nylon mesh tape over each side of the corner to keep the paint and compound from cracking but that spray glue ... nice thank you

3. 
   mudman | Jan 24, 2004 07:23am | #4

   Corner bead should NEVER be screwed. In fact it should not be fastened to the framing at all. Crimping is very good as it forms a tight hold on the drywall. However you can only crimp metal, and the crimping tool isn't free. I, and most other pros, use plastic bead or bull nose and glue it with a spray adhisive made specifically for this purpose. Then before the glue dries I shoot a bunch of staples in it. The staple should be LESS than 1/2" so they don't hit the framing. Some plastic bead seems tougher and more difficult to shoot staples into using a spring loaded stapler, so try to find the softer stuff.

      I know that it seems counter intuitive to not attatch the bead to the framing, but the reason is that when the lumber shrinks it will pull the bead with it creating cracks on either side of the bead flange.

   Mike

1. 
   shoemaker | Jan 25, 2004 03:30am | #5

   THAT WAS A HELPFUL HINT THANK YOU

2. 
   Manchild | Jan 26, 2004 12:30am | #6

   You don't mention taping the joint between the cornerbead and the drywall.

   Also does the mud pop off the plastic sometimes when the corner is hit?

1. 
   mudman | Jan 26, 2004 07:57am | #7

   I don't tape the flanges of corner bead, and I have never known a pro to do so. I have heard of overzealous DIYers doing it, and I don't mean that in a bad way. I have also read every current pro book on the subject and never seen  it there either. As a remodeler I work in houses usually 10 or more years old, and see a lot of cracks in drywall, Texas has a lot of foundation failures and I am on the lists of several foundation repair companies to go in and repair all the cracks and rehang the doors after they level the house. I honestly can't think of more than a couple of times when I've seen a crack on a corner bead. It wouldn't be much trouble to through some mesh over it before your bed it though...

     I've never seen the mud pop off exactly from an impact. The actual bead of the corner bead stands proud and should not have mud on it. I always see chipped paint or texture, but it is not bad. Bull nose is better about not nicking.

   Check out the site for JLC (Journal of Light Construction) they have the absolute best forums out there. Be warned though it is for Profesionals only, they usually ignore posts that sound too amatureish. but the archives are full of increadible discusions.

   Mike