Replies

1. 
   Cabinetmaker045 | May 25, 2007 10:09pm | #1

   Does the piece have to be stained to match something? If not then why not just use a polyurethane over the natural wood. You may have to use several coats to get the desired sheen. Cherry will naturally darken over time very nicely, and IMO the natural finish looks great.

2. 
   oldusty | May 25, 2007 10:40pm | #2

      Sounds like several things going on here , the Blackish tint , is it possible a different color tint would be better ?

        The " spotchy appearance "  that's not from the color . there are other pre stain sealers or conditioners besides Lacquer sanding sealers . Sometimes when some species get sanded too smooth it seems like the pores close or get polished over and the wood doesn't take stains evenly .

    Some people tint the Lacquer and risk losing transparency but it can work fine.

       good  luck             dusty

3. 
   SteveSchoene | May 26, 2007 01:10am | #3

   A bunch of things I don't quite understand.  I don't remember the article very well, so it might help to give a more complete description of what it said to do for finishing. 

   Can I assume that you sprayed the sanding sealer.  What brand was it, and how was it thinned and did you give it a full wet coat or a light coat? 

   When you say you applied the lacquer sanding sealer and "sanded to 220", did you use any other grits than the 220 grit?  

   What brand of dye and what color was it?  What was the formula you used to mix it?  Is it correct that you did spray the dye?  Denatured alcohol of some sort is about the only available alternative other than tax paid alcohol. It is possible, but difficult to find alcohols besides ethyl alcohol--such as in Bekhol, which adds some isobutyl and isopropyl alcohols to the mostly ethyl alcohol.   

   Dye tends to blotch considerably less than pigmented stain on cherry, and I don't see why you would use a sealer under dye to retard it's penetration when if you want a less intense shade with dye you generally just dilute the mix more. 

4. 
   terrylee86 | May 27, 2007 02:59pm | #4

   I am sure people have had success spraying an alcohol based tint over a lacquer based finish but I have always has very good luck using Mohawk shading lacquer products over a lacquer substrate. This is the most common method used in furniture factories.

   Terry

5. 
   YesMaam27577 | May 28, 2007 10:37pm | #5

   Cherry is photo reactive -- it changes color over time, with exposure to light. This process can not be stopped.

   My experience with "blotchy" cherry is that the blotchiness is much less of a factor if you let the wood react to light before you finish it. So, I sand or scrape my pieces, then I put them in direct sunlight for three or more days. I also put some sanded scraps in the sun too.

   I use the exposed scraps to help determine what finish combination I want. Then I finish the final piece.

   Although there will still be some more darkening (and eventual lightening), I find that my results are much more predictable.

   And finally, it is my opinion that cherry is one of the woods that should not be stained, dyed, or pigmented. The darkening effect of the stain, combined with the (unknown amount of) darkening from light -- will likely leave the piece looking muddy.

    

    

    

    

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1. 
   allenh | Jun 03, 2007 08:51am | #6

   Thanks. I've been doing some experimenting and think I've gotten my best results with just boiled linseed oil. Would you still suggest aging in the sun and then use linseed oil? What is your experience w/linseed oil on ccherry?

1. 
   fussy | Jun 04, 2007 07:45am | #7

   Allen:

   In my limited experience, I would agree that cherry should NEVER be stained.  I would use blo after sanding to 220, and then leave it in the sun until it reaches the color you want.  Then coat it with poly or whatever.  I've had good luck with beeswax on pieces that don't take a beating.The sad thing about evil men is that they see no truth but their own.

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jun 04, 2007 04:36pm | #8

   Would you still suggest aging in the sun and then use linseed oil? What is your experience w/linseed oil on ccherry?

   I love linseed oil, on almost anything. With cherry, the amber tone in the oil will help to tone down the redness as the wood photo-reacts. And other than that amber note, it is a very clear finish. Most stains, dyes, and pigments leave just a bit of a muddy appearance, in my opinion.

   As to the question of aging before or after...... It won't matter much in the long run. The wood WILL complete its process of reacting to the light sooner or later, no matter what you have done or not done.

   My suggestion to pre-age the cherry is one way to know (or at least get closer to knowing) what the final result will be.

    

    

    Support our Troops. Bring them home. Now.  And pray that at least some of the buildings in the green zone have flat roofs, with a stairway.