I am building a coffee table with a floating top. It will have a tempered tinted glass center. The top will be 36 by 36 , 2 inches thick by 6 inches wide. the original design calls for a 45 deg mitered edge around the outside. I want to change the edge profile to a 3/8 edge on the top and a 1 5/8 cove cut below. Because this cove is so wide I want to cut it on the table saw. I hope I can cut the cove on one edge rather than running a 12 inch board through the blade,cutting the cove, and then splitting the board. This is the technique most often shown on different websites. Using a fence of baltic birch plywood, 2 1/2 inches high and 4 inches wide , held to the saw top with 1/4-20 fasteners in the miter slotsat a 45 deg angle, the front of the blade is then buried in the fence with the rear 1/2 of the blade doing the cutting. My main concern is my own safety. I will be using a Forrest WWII blade. If this technique appears too dangerous is there a safer alternative? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have tried to attach a drawing but I work wood better than I compute. Thanx.
Replies
TS cove cuts
I'm not sure your fence placement would work as expected to create a half cove cut.Although you have the single-sded fence angled, that still a pretty steep cut for a "side nibble".
If you don't have a shaper (p[robably the right tool for the job), or a router table that would give you the desired profile ( quick search turned up only a 1" radius cove bit, nothing larger), I'd lean toward the traditional dual-fence straddling the blade method usually shown for doing coves on the TS.
But, I've never cut coves on the TS, so don't take my word for it. I'm also a firm believer in the old addage that if something makes you nervous, find another way.
You might also consider talking to a local cabinet shop that has a shaper, and see what they would charge you to make the cove cuts.
If I understand correctly you will be cutting with only the back portion of the blade ? I would be nervous with that, why not the same thing with the front ? I think a panel raising bit would give you a cove similar to what you want on the router table. You may want one where you can take off the top portion on the bit and only use the cove part.
Let us know how it turns out.
you can do it as you describe. if it's a true arc you are cutting, the easier and cleaner way is to use a shaper or router. if cutting on the ts, remember to raise the blade no more than 1/16th per pass for safety.
This is a piece of cake
But like so many on this site your jig is too clever by half. A one off jig like this can be cobbled together out of scrap. Once I work out the required angle, simply screw or nail a vertical piece that can be clamped to your fence, this will allow mobility. Half the cut will be buried in the fence side, mutiple light cuts and you are done. Time is money and I have saved neither wasting it on pretty fixtures, save it for your project...
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