Replies

1. 
   Kell | Nov 04, 2004 04:02pm | #1

   Kate,

   I would create a helper from a piece of scrap about six inches longer than the height of your ceiling.  Take a furring strip, put an old sock over the end to keep it from scratching the cove molding and use it to wedge against the floor and hold one end in place.

   Woodcraft also sells something called a Third Hand for about $40.  It's a racheting version of what I just described.  I used one to hang kitchen cabs by myself a few months ago and it was terrific.

   Good Luck!

   Kell

1. 
   Katemcc | Nov 05, 2004 04:17am | #4

   Kell,

   Thanks so much. It's amazing what I hadn't thought of...

   Best Regards,

   Kate

2. 
   jackplane | Nov 04, 2004 04:10pm | #2

   I nail a 6d or so nail into one end of the wall, a few inches below ceiling height to hold up the molding. Then start installing at the other end.

3. 
   Dave45 | Nov 04, 2004 04:23pm | #3

   Install your cove molding just like you would install crown molding.  The biggest hassle will be getting the corners to meet correctly since cove molding will show slight mismatches much worse than typical crown.

   There is a book available from http://www.compoundmiter.com that does a great job of explaining how to do this kind of job.

   I would also recommend that you put in a nailing strip so you don't have to hunt for studs.

1. 
   Katemcc | Nov 05, 2004 04:20am | #5

   Hello Dave,

   Thanks for the info re: corners...oh yes, at least it's geometry and not algebra.

   Best Regards,

   Kate

1. 
   Dave45 | Nov 05, 2004 05:26am | #6

   You wish, Kate - lol

   If you didn't know it already, you're about to find out that there are no flat, square, or plumb walls or ceilings in a house.  That's right, I said none.........nada.......zip.......  In fact if you find one, the carpenter who built it probably got fired for incompetence - lol

   I strongly recommend that you get that book I mentioned and spend some time studying it.  Then, buy some cheap crown or cove and practice, practice, practice.

   Since corners are usually the biggest headache, I usually pre-make my corners so they match nicely then hang them as a single piece, then continue the straight run with a scarf joint.  Scarf joints can also be a hassle, but they're usually easier to beat into submission. - lol

   Have fun

4. 
   Len | Nov 05, 2004 07:13am | #7

   Kate,

   I just finished a crown/cove job. My stuff was closer to cove. It's a hassle to do it by yourself. If you can find someone to help it goes quicker.

   Do you have a nail gun or are you planning to do this by hand? If you don't have a brad or finish nailer you can rent one. That will also make it easier. You can hold up the cove with one hand and shoot it in with the other.

   If you are unable to find some one to help. I would suggest you get two ladders. Place them at close to the end of your trim. You can then place the cove on the ladders so your not trying to carry sixteen feet of molding up a ladder. Make some supports with two by fours. I use sandbags at the base to keep them from shifting on me.

   I would also spend the time to find the studs in the wall and the joists in the ceiling. I mark the locations with blue painters tape. Once the crown is nailed up. I go back and use a utility knife to score the tape and pull it off.

   As was said nothing is plumb and level in a house. So take a scrap piece, (I like one thats about two feet.) and use it to determine the angles on the inside and outside corners. I put the moulding in position. Push it into the corner and draw a line on the ceiling, along the edge. Do this on both walls. Then draw a line from the corner to the intersection of the lines. Use a bevel gauge and a protractor to determine the angle. I like to write it in the corner on the ceiling. Where I know the crown will cover it.

   Does any of this make sense? I hope it does.

   I would suggest you get (if you already haven't.) Trim Carpentry and Built Ins or something similar.

   Here are some web pages you might find useful

   http://www.altereagle.com/How_to_install.html

   http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00004.asp

   http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/handbook/article/0,16417,214981,00.html

   http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Installing_crown_moulding.html

   You might want to post this question on Breaktime as well.

   Good luck and enjoy.

   Hi, I'm Len and I'm a Toolaholic...
1. 
   Dave45 | Nov 05, 2004 04:22pm | #8

   Thanks for posting those articles, Len...........Too bad I didn't see them a week ago. - lol

   I just finished a five room crown job and almost drove myself to drink several times during the process.  Three rooms with 4-5/8" crown and 9' ceilings and two rooms with 6-1/2" crown and 12' ceilings.  I don't want to see another ladder for at least a month!!

   One thing I decided during this project is that coping inside corners works better than trying to miter them.  I found it to be pretty difficult to get the second mitered piece lined up just right.  I also found that it was easier to prefabricate the outside corners and put them up as a single piece (see the attached picture).  I had five bullnose corners and the prefab idea was a lifesaver.  I used a fast set hot glue and was able to fabricate and hang a corner in 15 - 30 minutes.

   A couple of other "lessons learned" are;

   take lots of time making careful measurements and doing the layout

   have someone help with the long pieces.  The second picture shows some temporary supports I used.  They work pretty well but it's still difficult to shift a long piece while checking the fit.

   All in all, this was a good job and I learned a lot.  After my knees, legs, and back recover, I'll be ready for another one. - lol

   
1. 
   Len | Nov 05, 2004 06:10pm | #9

   Dave,

   I always like to read about what I should have done. It helps me feel better...LOL

   Nice job. Looks like you have a house that was built ing the 90's. Just like mine. Sometimes those rounded corners are a real pain.

   I usually cope all the inside corners, but in this case the molding was cove. In order to cope it, it was paper thin at one point. The style wasn't very forgiving. It would flex only in one direction at a time. Really nice stuff, though.

   I posted this on breaktime some time ago of the finished dining room. It included the crown/cove, a built in wine cabinet and wainscotting.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=40621.1

   Enjoy.Hi, I'm Len and I'm a Toolaholic...

1. 
   Dave45 | Nov 05, 2004 08:08pm | #10

   Len-

   Reading about how I should have done something after the fact still beats having SWMBO point out my glaringly obvious shortcomings in real time.................don't you think???? - lol

   I just got back from the last trip to that job.  I had to help them move some large furniture back to it's place and do a little last touchup on some filler and caulking.  They think the job is magnificent and I have the check in my pocket.  Funny, but I didn't feel any need to point out some of the mistakes I had managed to hide.

   VERY NICE work on your dining room.  I'm impressed.

1. 
   Len | Nov 05, 2004 09:30pm | #12

   Now, now. Isn't constructive criticism? ROFL...

   Glad you clients loved it. Moving heavy furniture too. Your quiet a guy. I never feel the need to point out my mistakes. I need to sleep sometimes.

   A carpenter knows when he's made a mistake. Just before and just after.

   Hi, I'm Len and I'm a Toolaholic...

2. 
   Dave45 | Nov 06, 2004 04:36pm | #13

   I usually avoid moving stuff for customers, but she works with SWMBO and they have a pretty extensive project list so I'm hoping that a little PR today will pay off tomorrow - lol. 

   Besides, they're really nice people and paid in full on the last day.  I'll gladly do some 'extras' for customers like that.

2. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 07, 2004 05:29am | #14

   I'm on kind of a crusade here. for many here, those long links will not break, and therefore cause the entire post to run off the frame -- making it very difficult to read.

   Here is a slick means of reducing such long URLs to a more manageable size:

   http://tinyurl.com/

5. 
   exhibitor | Nov 05, 2004 08:37pm | #11

   Correct way to do the corners is to cope, not miter...