I have two 3″X14″X16″ pieces of old cypress that I want to use as legs on a simple steel table. One of the pieces has a crack in it that runs along the grain and reaches the center of the wood. I want to use this piece if possible and have thought about drilling into the wood, into the end of the crack, and then filling it with epoxy or similar product in order to stop the crack from completely splitting the leg. The drill hole will not be seen since the steel top will be covering that end of the leg. Any thoughts on this procedure and if so, what material would be a good choice. Thanks.
Replies
Perhaps you can just cut the board in half, joint the edges and re-glue.
If you don't like the glue line or grain mismatch, apply a surface mounted piece of trim or inletted trim that compliments the steel top. Basically, try to turn lemons into lemonaide.
Edited 7/2/2009 8:30 am ET by DonC
I've used epoxy in that situation. Use the thin runny kind intended for fiberglassing. It seeps throughout the crack, and glues everything together. I've used epoxy from West Systems. You can get it from boating stores, and I think Woodcraft now carries it.
It is clear. If you want, you can add pigments to color it. The store should have brown or black pigments. You also can use universal colorants if you want some other color.
Use masking tape to seal the crack everyplace it appears on the plank's surface. Otherwise you'll get epoxy leaking out, and dripping on the floor.
Edited 7/2/2009 10:33 am ET by Jamie_Buxton
Edited 7/2/2009 10:34 am ET by Jamie_Buxton
Here's what is happening and why repair is unlikely to be successful.. That "crack" is actaully a check caused by the outside wood drying faster than the inside wood.. As wood dries it shrinks and at some point the oldside dry part was under too much pressure causing the check.
Now if you stuff some inflexable product like epoxy into the Check when wood shrinks and swells based on humidity the connection is likely to fail on one side or the other as the wood shrinks and swells.
All wood shrinks or swells with the change from humid summer to dry winter. With a weak spot like the check to deal with you are in effect saying break here.. The only real repair would be a dutchman.
a Dutchman made of the same wood carefully selected to match grain would become nearly invisable and a durable repair..
Ask if you'd like deatils on how to make a dutchman..
Hi frenchy,
I will ask my parents how to make a Duchman., just kidding.
I would use 2 pot glue and colour in it to match the timber, to fill up the crack.
Cheerio Bernhard.
Please forward instructions on making a Dutchman. Thanks.
If it's relatively straight simply take a dovetail router and run it up the length. go from top to bottom. Then cut a trangle shaped strip to the angles of the dovetail cutter and length of the piece. Let the ridge stay proud. Glue things up and slide it in. flush the triangle piece. Should be nearly invisable and extremely workman like repair..
Thanks frenchy for the info. After I complete the table, I will post it.
I'll be interested in reading Frency's explanation of how to do a dutchman in this instance. How he surfaces the natural riven split will be the nut, I think. I also think it will be rather difficult.
Knowing nothing about the design of this table nor nothing about the aesthetic you adhere to, it's difficult to suggest a solution. But, for my money, the natural split is a gift. I'd reinforce it with some butterflys and leave it be. If the butterflys were made of steel, that might be better.
A Dutchman and a butterfly are the same thing.
As to the original question it is hard to tell what the cause of the split is without having a good look at it; not knowing the cause means it is also hard to offer a solution.
Some splits are, as frenchy perhaps rather iconoclastically, dramatically, and somewhat confusingly described, the result of improper drying. Other splits are less dramatic and due essentially to a flaw or weakness in the wood's structure.
If there is little or no distortion either side of the break it may be possible to simply glue it back together with a good gap filling glue. On other occasions this isn't possible and, if the split is pretty close to straight, ripping the thing apart, straightening the two edges, and gluing it back together might work; this results in some grain disruption but sometimes this is hard to spot, especially in darker woods.
Greater grain disruption results if a section either side of the split has to be removed in order to create two straight edges; this is more likely if the split is bent or wanders.
And there is the epoxy route as others have suggested whereby you try and reinforce the split and fill any gaps using the glue and added thickeners.
I think a couple or three good quality images of the split lump of wood might be useful here. Slainte.richardjonesfurniture.com
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