Anyone built the cradle of the cover of the Taunton book by Jeff Miller titled Children’s Furniture Projects?
Have a new grandson on the way.
Safety standards for slats call for them to be no more than 2 and 3/8 inches a part. I will be using 5/8″ dowels (as called for in the book). Any reason I should not make them 2″ a part?
Thanks,
Alan — planesaw
Edited 3/9/2004 8:48 pm ET by Alan
Replies
Hi, Alan. I'm just finishing a cradle project for my niece's soon-to-arrive son. It's based on a plan from Jordan Wood Boats called Baby Tender II. I've got the plans for Baby Tender, but that version seemed too complicated initially. Baby Tender II has forced me to use woodworking skills I thought I'd forgotten, as all joinery is curved and angled. It's been a challenge but I'm pleased with the results so far. You can find this site with a Google search. Of course, I'm biased towards this plan since I'm a sailor, and hope to infect the little one with my love of boating.
Another alternative is the plan offered at the New Yankee Workshop. I have that plan as well and it is very handsome. Good luck with yor project! What kind of wood do you plan to use, and what finish?
I am using cherry from Arkansas, Kentucky, Indiana, Pennsylvania and New Jersey plus olive wood from Italy. All places where we or our daughter and son-in-law have lived.
Looked up the cradle you are building. I love it! Unique!
The cradle I am building is a hanging/swingiing cradle also. I have most of the pieces milled and cut out. It is modified slightly from the plan I mentioned. My daughter looked through quite a few plans and showed me the combination of two that she liked.
I generally do a good job on the construction aspect of a project, but always feel my weakest knowledge and skill is with the finish.
Am considering using the finish recommended here:
http://www.wwch.org/Technique/FinishesRL/OilFin.htm
Any recommendations for finishing cherry?
Thanks,
Alan - planesaw
Hello, Alan. Just like you I consider myself a competent woodworker, but am marginally terrified of finishing. Hence my preference for Bartley's gel varnish (as I described in the previous post). I've tried all sorts of approaches (although nothing as involved as the finish described in your article), icnluding flooding the material with Danish oil for as long an it would take up oil (went through two quarts of oil on a simple 60" by 24" by 30" cabinet!), and then spent hours wiping off the stuff that literally penetrated all the way through the wood. The results were good...but took a long time and frankly did not increase my affection for the piece one bit.
I strongly suggest you give this a try: get a small can of Bartley's and test it on a scrap of cherry and olivewood. Machine sand (random orbit) through 220 grit and finish with 320 hand sanding. Vacuum away the dust. Then use compressed air to bow away any remaining dust from pores, etc. As you blow air on the surface, rub it with your hand to release any remaining dust. I usually go from there but you could tack cloth it to be really diligent.
Working in smallish sections (where you can apply varnish in less that 3-4 minutes), and using a clean cotton rag, apply a heavy coat of varnish. Rub over it with and against the grain a few times. Let it rest for a couple of minutes to soak into the wood, then rub it around some more. If an area gets dry, add more varnish.
Using a clean rag (don't skimp here...but make sure you leave at least one t-shirt to wear to the store to buy more, or beter yet, get cotton rags from a paint store. Don't pay attention to what they cost), again, using a CLEAN rag, wipe all the varnish from teh surface. Repeat with another clean rag so you remove all the finish you can.
To conserve rags, I rotate them, discarding the first wiping cloth when it has no more dry areas and replacing it with the second wiping rag that is probably pretty dry.
Seriously, the only way to mess this finish up is to try to leave some varnish on the surface to build thickness. I've done this more than once, and each time had to sand it off to get a smooth surface.
Finish the whole piece in this manner. The gel can be tricky to get out of crevices, so stock up on Q-tips and such. Just make sure you remove all that is not in the wood itself.
Let this dry overnight...six hours miminum in a heated, low humidity area.
Repeat the process. It gets easier and faster with each coat as the wood will take up less and less. You shouldn't need to sand between coats, unless you missed getting all the varnish off in spots. I use 600 grit to clean these areas up.
Three coats should be sufficient, followed by a coat of wax. It's easy, fun, and keeps the wood feeling like wood. No gloss. Perfect for cherry. For maple I start with a couple coats of danish oil to impart some color and highlight the grain, but then again, I avoid maple unless a client insists. Anything that stays in my house is cherry, though.
One other comment-it you're still awake. The cherry will naturally darken with age. The gel varnish will not inhibit this, and I find pieces get better looking over time. I don't try to alter the character of the wood at all, like pre-treating for blotchiness...time will equalize all variations in color.
To kick start the process, some folks put the piece out in the sun for a few hours before finishing it. Don't do this if it's raining! And make sure you don't leave a chisel on the piece or it will get a very interesting "tan line"!
That is my suggestion. Keep or toss. Best regards, and enjoy the cradle and your grandchild.
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