Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Dec 16, 2003 12:58am | #1

   I'm not specifically familiar with the Crafstman version, but there are lots of "zip saws" available, and I have two different ones.

   I have the dremel, and I love it. Although the model that I have allows limited accessories, I still love the wide variety of bits (and therefore, functions) that are available.

   I also have the Dewalt. This one is more built towards the bigger jobs (removing the drywall from a rough-framed doorway). It also has the advantage of taking either the 1/8 inch dremel bits, or virtually any 1/4 inch router bit.

   One note -- all of the TV cemmercials make it look like the tool will cut ceramic tile quickly and easily. Any of them (any brand) will cut the tile -- but none of them will do it quickly or easily.

   And if your Mom's projects are done in old barnsiding (7/8, and really well seasoned), then I'd not count on a zip saw for much production work. It is not even close to the speed of a bandsaw -- and will be even slower than most jig or saber saws.

   Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
2. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 16, 2003 01:51am | #2

   Erich,up-end a sabre saw and attach it to a flat piece of 1/4"baltic plywood  Add two or three vertical runners to form an bottomless open box.  This way, she can slice 7/8 material and control the power with a foot switch (Like a sewing machine)

   Buy narrow blades to fit the saw, so she will navigate close turns and 'Turn arounds'  I use an old foot switch from a sewing machine and since my foot does the 'Driving', I can use both hands and not have to reach for the 'Kill switch'

   All you have to do to attach the saw's  sole, is to drill 3 or 4 small holes through the sole, so you can screw it up to the baltic birch table. 

   I also added two flanges (Angles) to the runners bottom's (The better to clamp to the work bench/kitchen table/folding TV dinner table)  Before attaching the soleplate, cut a rectangular opening smaller than the span of the screw holes for a drop-in 'Insert' plate (Same baltic birch)  Stein.

   
   

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   Edited 12/15/2003 5:58:36 PM ET by steinmetz

   
   

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   Edited 12/15/2003 6:31:06 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 16, 2003 03:35am | #4

   I have a Bosch auxiliary table that allows me to table-mount my Bosch jigsaw up-side-down - with the blade protruding through the table. One of the things I learned very quickly was to use the proper blades; if you use blades that have the teeth pointing down when table mounted (up toward the saw in normal use), the blade will pull the work toward the table. If the blade has teeth oriented the other way, i.e., a "normal blade," it'll cause the work to jump and chatter like crazy.

   FWIW,PaulWhether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 16, 2003 04:56am | #5

   jazz,I once bought a slew of those blades, (Cheapo) but,when I used them, I knew I was 'Had' 

   The proper blade will cut toward the sole no matter if you turn it right side up or six ways to Sunday. (They'll still cut toward the sole and therefore push the wood to the sole .

   I used to know what those 'Queer' blades were for, but I forgot Stein.   Incidently, I use Bosch blades, although my two saber saws are not made to accept Bosch. 

   I 'Blue' the shanks with Magic Marker, scribe around a compatable blade (To get it's outline,) then grind the shank to fit...(Dremel)   

    even do it to 'Broke off' blades.  Stein.

   Oops, I just remembered, The purpose of those Queer blades is for use when cutting laminated stuff when it isn't posible to cut from the back side.in order to avoid 'Tearout' and 'Chipping'  The operator has to maintain heavy downward pressure to keep the sabersaw from hopping.  Stein.

   Edited 12/15/2003 9:03:20 PM ET by steinmetz

   Edited 12/16/2003 9:24:03 AM ET by steinmetz

   Edited 12/16/2003 9:26:38 AM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 16, 2003 07:49am | #6

   "The proper blade will cut toward the sole no matter if you turn it right side up or six ways to Sunday. (They'll still cut toward the sole and therefore push the wood to the sole ."

   Stein,

   You're right, of course.  I normally use blades with the teeth pointing toward the saw unless I'm concerned about tearout on the uppermost surface - in which case the teeth point toward the work and I have to put my weight into the saw to keep it from hopping around like crazy.

   What's the difference between a recto-cranial insertion and optical rectalitis?

   In the first instance, one simply has his/her head up their a$$, while the second instance is an example of a rare condition in which the optic and rectal nerves are cross-connected, resulting in a $hitty outlook on life.

   In my prior response, I was obvoiusly suffering from the former - now I'm trying to avoid the latter!

   Thanks for catching my gaffe,PaulWhether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 16, 2003 11:12am | #7

   Jazzdog, You're a hoot. I like your attitude. (Also your command of the english language)  I,m still learning, although I've reached the ripe age of 73.

   All you Knotheads on this forum are like my extended family and I eagerly await mail from home.

    I post stuff on 'Ask This Old House'forum as well as Knots. Trouble with A T O H, nobody answers back on that forum. On knots, I hear (and overhear) from  Knotheads all over the world and except for some guy with a hatred for our country and a chip on his shoulder, I think most of you are fair and friendly.  Ed,from CT.NJ.& NY.

3. 
   stancalow | Dec 16, 2003 03:26am | #3

   ehrich

   If it's like a rotozip tool, it is very hard to cut a straight line.  Because of the rotation of the bit, it wants to curve in the direction of the rotation.  It would be hard to freehand curves too because of this.  You would need to have templates.  The bits are easy to break too, because of the stress of pushing the realtively thin bit into thick wood.  I think it would be very underpowered for this purpose too. 

   My two cents

4. 
   ian | Dec 16, 2003 04:16pm | #8

   Second JazzDog's suggestion.  I too have one of the higher end Bosch jig saws and the auxilary mounting table.  It's a brilliant set-up.  The saw is variable speed and the mounting solid.  It's as simple as using a sewing machine.  

1. 
   ehrichweiss | Dec 17, 2003 07:15am | #9

   Thank you all for your advice and opinions!!

   I think instead of going with the roto-cutting tool I'll just buy her a new jigsaw.  What brand should I go with and will any (or maybe I should ask if any will not) be "mountable" to a make-shift table?

   She may like the table idea, I may have to look in to making something like that.

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 17, 2003 07:51am | #10

   Can't possibly go wrong with the Bosch - whether to buy the barrel grip or top-mounted handle, however, is very subjective (less important, obviously, when table mounted - but still a worthwhile consideration). I'm happy with the Bosch accessory table - quick, easy and convenient. Sorry I Can't recall the price - bought mine more than a decade ago,

   I've also heard VERY good things about a few of the European brands (Festool springs to mind), but have no first-hand experience with them.

   Good luck,PaulWhether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   bd | Dec 17, 2003 06:49pm | #11

   One other option you might consider would be to buy her one of the lower priced scroll saws. I've seen some good comments about the $100 Delta on the forum here. It won't match the higher priced scroll saws, but it will certainly do a lot .......and be alot safer than the table-mounted jigsaw & probably cheaper. As far as safety goes, one of the instructors at the local Woodcraft store was asked by a worried parent if their son could cut his thumb off with a scroll saw. He responded, "Sure. But he'll probably get tired of changing blades before he gets through."

   bd

2. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 17, 2003 10:55pm | #12

   Erich, Almost any saber saw has a mild steel sole plate.( Fairly easy to drill holes through the bottom) .

    Make sure you can reach the screws with your screwdriver. keep the holes out toward the outer edges. After the tool is attached, mark out the area well inside the screws to cut out the rectangular blank which will now be the insert 

    Don't make the table too thick, as you'll only lessen the amount of usable blade length. After the saw is attached with screws, and you want secure mounting, remove one screw at a time and re-drill and use flat head machine screws and nuts. Stein.   Craftsman  used to make a metal table for their sabre saw. It came with a rip fence and a miter gauge and a drop in insert plate. 

   Edited 12/17/2003 2:58:09 PM ET by steinmetz

   Edited 12/17/2003 3:04:07 PM ET by steinmetz

   Edited 12/17/2003 7:15:46 PM ET by steinmetz

3. 
   jc21 | Dec 18, 2003 01:25am | #13

   The Bosch jigsaw is good but imho the Milwaukee is better. Made in Germany, it's an AEG dressed in Milwaukee red. Top handle (6266-22) or barrel handle (6276-21). Smooth, plenty of power, cuts accurately, and really slick blade changes. Worth at least a look if you're in the market for a jigsaw.