Replies

1. 
   nigelUsa | Jul 06, 2002 05:34pm | #1

   Rick, you now own one of the most flexable woodworking tools around. Treat it with respect and you will be fine. Follow the manual closely when you set it up and you will like it. There has been some concern with the first guard supplied with Craftman radial saws and emerson are offering a repair kit http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com  .its a nice setup and free with a new instruction book too.

1. 
   RickinCG | Jul 14, 2002 07:55am | #13

   Nigel,

   My kit is on the way. Thanks !!! Rick

2. 
   woodwormal | Jul 06, 2002 05:57pm | #2

   Rick , your saw is about a 1986 ,thats when i bought mine and like you have been told you have a good  saw -if set up right it is very accurate--with in 20-30thousands---- these were not produced very long , every one was scared they wouldn't last ,but they got fooled , i used mine in cabinet shop . you got a good saw!

3. 
   Alan | Jul 06, 2002 06:16pm | #3

   Rick,

   A radial arm saw is a very versatile tool, and it does many things very well--but remember it cannot do everything--and certainly cannot do everything with an acceptable amount of safety.  Check out the article in this month's FWW.  It's very good.  Pay special attention to the kind of cuts for which the authors use their radial arm saws. 

   My advice:  If you have little experience, do not use your RAS to rip cut!  (This has been a point of contention on this site before.  Some maintain that ripping on a RAS is acceptably safe-- so I'm sure this post will generate some heated retorts-- but IMHO it is not!  Especially if you have little experience.)

   Cross-cutting is what the RAS is designed to do, and it does that very well.  It also does certain other operations very well and safely.  But ripping is another story.  When cross-cutting on the RAS the configuration of the tool means that the stock is forced down and back, away from you, into the fence and table.  But when ripping the configuration means the blade tries to lift the stock up off the table and throw it back at you.  (By comparison, when ripping, a table saw forces the wood down and back at you.  Both tools are capable of kickbacks, but they are much more likely on a RAS because it tries to lift the wood as well as kick it back--there's no friction with the table to help stabilize the stock.)  I don't know what your saw looks like, but on most RASs the splitter and/or anti-kickback spurs are grossly inadequate, and are virtually useless when rip cutting.  Similar table saw safety devices can leave a lot to be desired; but the table saw is still safer--by far--to rip.

   Many moons ago, when I had a shop full of power tools, when my table saw was on the fritz, I had to do some rip cuts on my RAS.  It was scary.  I think I held my breath until the last cut was done.

   So, at least until you gain a good amount of experience, stick to cross-cutting.

   Alan

1. 
   gerry001 | Jul 07, 2002 07:31am | #5

   I'll only slightly disagree, because of all the emphasis being placed on it. In most cases, and where the board isn't too short, I maintain that one can safely rip on a RAS. However, very few books teach you the proper set up to do it safely, and that's often more trouble than it's worth. Much easier on the table saw. Of course, the latter can also kick back. One thing I've noticed is that kickbacks on a RAS tend to be more accurate than on a table saw, for whatever that's worth:-)

   As another poster said, when in doubt, use a bandsaw.

   Gerry

1. 
   jase | Jul 08, 2002 06:44am | #7

   A saw with more accurate kickback mean the saw knows where you are standing and can hit you where you are most vulnerable more often than another saw, right?Jase--Is there a better way?

2. 
   RickinCG | Jul 07, 2002 07:43am | #6

   Alan,

   Thank you for the excellent comments.

   I have read that using a blade with negative hook reduces some of that lifting of the stock you mention. But, I suspect ripping is still dangerous with a RAS. The saw does have a splitter and anti-kickback spurs.

   Thanks again !!!

4. 
   WesTiff | Jul 06, 2002 06:32pm | #4

   Rick:  I've used a Craftsman RAS for over 25 years and am quite happy with it.  But I certainly second the comments made by others in this thread -- don't rip with it.  The RAS is unmatched for crosscutting and, as such, is fine for dados, but the danger involved in ripping far trancends what I'm willing to accept.  My own solution is to rip on the band saw.

   Wes Tiffney

5. 
   sschefer | Jul 08, 2002 07:19pm | #8

   Some folks build their shops around a table saw or a bandsaw and never consider the RAS. I was given two by different people who said they never used them anymore, (used other tools instead). I reconditioned a Montgomery Wards model then received the other one which was a Craftsman. I gave away the MW and kept the Craftsman. I really didn't use it much until the last 3 months or so. I find it to be a valuable tool now that I am learning what to use it for.

   I guess safety was my primary reason for not using it. I really did not like the way the saw seemed to be doing its best to smack you in the chest during the cut. Some people say you should push the saw and others say you should pull. 

   Once I found out how to use the slide detent correctly and how to adjust the fence to make it more comfortable I found that the pull method is the best for me. 

   I have yet to Rip cut with it but they say that it can be done safely. I'm not in agreement with that.  Fear alone, has kept me from it.

   Is the saw safe? No, there is currently no such thing as a safe saw of any type. I do have to say that I prefer cutting dado's on the RAS because I can see the whole blade all the time. This does feel like a safer way to work than the table saw with the blade hidden during the cut.

   Overall, the saw is a great addition to the shop. If you read the books on how to use it and throw in a good dose of common sense. With a little practice you'll find many uses for it.

   Enjoy it.

   Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   RSRose | Jul 08, 2002 10:45pm | #9

   Use it ONLY to cross cut. Get it set up to accurately cut at 90 degrees and never again move that clamp. Make miter jigs to hold stock for all other angles. NEVER cut with it when you're tired, rushed or distracted. Count your fingers after every cut.

   I had a co-worker cut off four fingers. Only his thumb remained.

   Rich

1. 
   joker | Jul 09, 2002 02:21am | #10

   I have a Craftsman radial arm saw that someone permantly loaned me. I was really stoked about getting another tool to use. I tinkered with it for quite awhile. I put a new table and fence on it got it square, put a new blade on etc. What I found was that my cuts were not nice and "crisp". The blade seemed to "wobble" thus preventing my crosscuts from being square. I put a blade stabilizer on thinking that might help, fiddled with things a bit more, but no improvement. I will admit that the blade is not the best , it is a 40t Delta blade for crosscutting (about 25.00 I believe).I am reluctant to by a better blade since I am not convinced it would help. In the mean time I use it to sit things on and collect dust. If anyone has ran accross this and has corrected it, your advice is appreciated.

1. 
   gerry001 | Jul 09, 2002 07:15pm | #11

   Rogue2600,

   Yes, I've seen that problem on a table saw, and a BS, and a RAS. In all cases, you really need to start from the beginning, checking each item in turn. I wouldn't even think about the blade until the end. My first guess for wobble would be loose track guides in the arm. Get a cheap dial indicator, straight edge, ruler, pencil and wood scraps and clamps and you can do most of it. Just remember to apply tension; IOW use a wood stick to lightly push the blade up and check the play, at both ends of the arm.

   For the blade, clamp a piece of wood next to the side of the blade, and rotate it by hand, watching the gap. If the gap is small, the eye can detect very small changes even if you don't have a dial indicator.

   Another thought is that the blade is wrong, with an agressive hook that's pulling the cut too fast. That can cause enough pressure to cause your wobble.

   Depending on the year of your saw, from what I've heard, your problem can range from simple to simply not worth fixing.

   Gerry

2. 
   TKanzler | Jul 09, 2002 08:46pm | #12

   The bearings may have axial play.  Put a dial indicator on the motor and indicate off the outboard end shaft or blade for axial movement.  Try to mount it on the motor itself to eliminate other connections and element deflections from the measurement.  It won't take much movement to mess up the cut.   

   Be seeing you...

6. 
   pritcharded | Jul 14, 2002 02:22pm | #14

   Hi Rick

   I got my RAS nearly 40 yrs ago. I still have it and regularly use it. At the time I also bought a little book titled:

   "Getting the most out of your radial saw" - Deltacraft Library - Rockwell Mgf Co 1956

   I've still got that too. It could be worth your while trying to get hold of a 2nd hand copy. Amazon have a title listed with the same name (don't know whether or not it's the same book).

   Personally I don't use my RAS for ripping anymore. I have a good table saw and bandsaw and adequately guarded both are better options - provided you've got them! They are also better options for sawdust collection.

   However in the distant past I did rip with the RAS quite a bit with reasonable success, but there are some points to watch when ripping:

   • each time when setting up the machine for ripping, check that the blade is truly parallel with the fence (RAS tend to get out of adjustment somewhat easier than other types of equipment and the stops are not always that reliable)
   • the feed is ALWAYS against the direction of blade rotation (ie: so the blade tends to push the wood back towards the operator)
   • the guard is adjusted down such that it almost holds the wood against the table on the infeed side (on my machine there is an arm which adjusts down for this purpose - on other machines I've seen, the saw guard rotates to achieve the same result)
   • adjust the anti-kickback fingers and check to make sure that they will actually "grab" the timber if a kickback occurs
   • use a sharp TC combination blade with no more than a 10 degree rake
   • use a riving knife if your machine is fitted with one
   • don't try to rip anything shorter than about 3 feet
   • hold the timber firmly against the table until the cut is well established
   • on the infeed side keep the fingers at least 6" away from the blade guard at all times - use a push stick to finish the cut
   • don't put your fingers on the outfeed side at all
   • make sure the timber is fully supported on the outfeed side

   About 2" is the thickness limit for my machine, but I guess it depends on what you're cutting.

   I have had a scary moment but only when using a full-on rip blade with an aggressive rake and while cutting some very contrary hardwood. Just remember saws of all descriptions NEED CAREFUL THOUGHT BEFORE AND DURING USE. Personally I don't think RAS are any more or less dangerous than bench saws - they both can take off the fingers in a flash if you don't use the appropriate guards, care and commonsense.

   It is possible to do fine work on a RAS but they are inherently less rigid than most table saws and hence it's less easily done. But maybe that just means a tad more practice with the hand plane and is that such a bad thing!

   Take care and enjoy.

   Ted 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/15/2002 9:21:47 PM ET by Ted

1. 
   gerry001 | Jul 15, 2002 01:10am | #15

   Ted,

   Very nicely put; for once I can't even think of anything to add:-)

   Gerry