Replies

1. 
   10fingers | Jun 09, 2003 11:26pm | #1

   Hello,

   My personal opinion (I don't care for radial arm saws)is one of the following:

   1.  If the saw was bought new, take it back to Sears and say it is defective.  Trade it 

         for a sliding compound miter saw.

   2.  If the was was used, buy a performax kit to use the motor and table and end up

        a drum sander.

   have a good day,

   Chuck

1. 
   user-153132 | Jun 09, 2003 11:45pm | #2

   Number 2 may be the defacto choice, or more correctly, nonchoice!

   Thanks,

   Bob

2. 
   MarkRoderick | Jun 10, 2003 12:17am | #3

   Take that thing back. They are junk (I owned one once). Don't buy any power tools at Sears. Use the money to buy some other brand, whether a radial arm saw or something else. If you're wondering what tool to buy, search the archives here and you'll find lots of threads, or FWW had an article within the last couple years on the subject. You'd probably get a good band saw for the cost of the Craftsman radial arm so, or may be good contractor's saw.

1. 
   jonsherryl | Jun 10, 2003 12:48am | #4

   Mark, I think you're right re your basic conclusion...But it's a sad commentary on Sears. I have a sears (Craftsman) tablesaw, circa 1958, and a radial arm that's not much newer...And they're good, solid pieces of equipment. They don't owe me a thing. If I had to replace either, I don't know what I'd go with (?)....probably with Grizzly. Their stuff is the nearest thing to the old, crude-but-durable Craftsman products.

   As for guards...This is NOT a recommendation for young woodworkers...but I can't stand guards of any kind. They lull you into a sense of safety...and nothing is as important as a genuine fear of ALL power tools.

   Edited 6/9/2003 6:18:40 PM ET by Jon Arno

1. 
   MarkRoderick | Jun 10, 2003 02:32am | #6

   Sears and Black & Decker and how many other brands that traded solid reputations, earned over decades, for a bit of short term profitability? Too much focus on "marketing" in the most superficial sense, and treating customers like lemmings.

3. 
   scooter1 | Jun 10, 2003 01:54am | #5

   I am not familiar with this type of saw, although I have owned a Sears Radial Arm Saw. Contrary to some on this board, I liked mine. Neither a bandsaw nor a sliding miter will hold a Dado blade. It is a nice workhorse. I got about 12 years out of mine before the motor c r a p p e d out.

   Hopefully, you bought a service contract with the saw. If not, buy one now and call Sears to come out to fix it.

   Or take some pictures of the assembly and talk to the tool guy.

   Finally, I can only offer my tips on the Sears Radial Arm I had. The Guard has an inside curved curface which fits over a matching surfact on the left side of the blade. The matching surface is a round machined surface which was about 2" in diameter, and may have a groove in it. The Guard has a bolt with a long end, actually a handle and if one screws this bolt, it moves in and out through the Guard and supposedly into the round machined part and in that groove, thus clamping the Guard into the motor. Again, I don't have your saw, but this is how mine worked.

   Good Luck.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   user-153132 | Jun 10, 2003 09:23am | #7

   Boris,

   Thanks for the response.  I have had two other Sears radial arm saws and had no trouble with them.  Like your experience, they used an Allen screw or other screw to make the final tightening possible.  I can find nothing in the instructions nor can I see any way to tighten this one on.  Unlike the comments I have read from others, the craftsmen equipment I had in the past have met the needs requested of the. 

   Over the years many pieces have been replaced with Grizzly, or Powermatic or Record.  The radial saws were always useful, until this one.

   Take care,

   Bob

1. 
   jimmyk | Jun 10, 2003 03:08pm | #8

   If I go to the Sears website, and put in your model number, I get the diagram below. You shouls have the same guard as Boris, maybe the long screw is missing?

   
1. 
   kenewald | Jun 10, 2003 05:46pm | #9

   Mine is just like that diagram with a long winged screw (#27 on the diagram). 

   Loosen the screw and the guard slides around the groove.

   I really enjoy working with my Craftsman radial arm saw.  Definately beats a tablesaw for making tenons.  Dadoes are also a breeze.   I like the idea of seeing what's being cut.

   I bought it rebuilt for $175 with an $80 finishing blade.  It's a workhorse in my shop and I wouldn't sell it.  It'll die a natural death.  On the other hand, it's never broken down and I'd probably replacing it if the repair was over $200.

   I'd agree that it can be very dangerous.  Especially since you're controlling the feed rate with the motor in your hand attached to a 10" very sharp blade.

   If I may suggest one thing.  When you replace your working surface, use a solid hardwood for your backstop and never operate it without the board behind the backstop.

   -Ken

2. 
   user-153132 | Jun 10, 2003 07:55pm | #10

   You and Ken got me straightened out.  Parts #26 and #27 were missing.  I'll be calling our sears parts department and get them both.  My old saw had the same type of set up, but not having had one for a number of years I evidently forgot how it was done and with the parts missing it added to the confusion. I'll chalk it up to another of my ever increasing "senior moments"

   Thank you both for your help.

   Bob

1. 
   jimmyk | Jun 10, 2003 08:01pm | #11

   Great! Get back with me if they give you the run around or take a long time, I've got an extra guard assembly in the shop, I could send you those parts if you can't get them.

2. 
   user-153132 | Jun 10, 2003 08:31pm | #12

   Just finished talking to them and there will be no problems. It will go as easy as when my attorney said the check was in the mail.

   Thanks again

   Bob