I’m building my wife a carftsman style front door for her birthday. All out of BEAUTIFUL 100 year old doug fir. I have a couple of questions:
Does anyone know of a good source for technical drawings of such door design? I’m not sure how to interface the shelf on top of the lock (mid) rail and if the shelf (and accompanying corbels) should/could protrude through the door into the interior or just be an exterior touch (up to my preference?)
What type of glass ought I use? I’ve heard both the terms water glass and art glass used. I’m after the “imperfect” look that’s a litle muddled from a “wavy” finish. I have 6 panes each about 6 X 8 inches in size. I think I need something in the 1/4″ thick realm.
Lastly I want to at least “faux” pin the frame members (mortise and tenon) Any ideas on how to accomplish this or should I infact use a true pin all the way through the joint? I am thinking 3/4″ square black walnut
Once again any and all suggestion greatly appreciated. RACWOOD
Replies
DOORMAKING: A DO-IT-YOURSELF GUIDE. REVISED EDITION
200PP. COLOR AND B&W 1999
In this collection of patterns, woodworkers will find more than 50 different doors to add beauty, charm, and style throughout any home. Batten doors, edge-joined doors, frame-and-panel doors, screen doors, French doors, etc. There are even a few specialty doors such as for the barn, sauna, or green- house.
http://www.lindenpub.com/title4.htm#4-326
Also, ebony makes great looking pins on clear doug fir.
I happen to have that book and find it "OK" but less than what I expected. Thanks for the tip on ebony. Kind regards, RACWOOD
there is another book available that is considered to be a bible on doormaking... but for the life of me I can't recall the title. When it comes to me, I will be sure to post it.
Unless it is a 'dutch' door the shelf and corbels are applied to either side. As far as I know 'water' glass is what you drink out of and Art glass is a generic term covering most forms of stained glass. There's all kinds of obscure glass to suit your taste and budget. Make the M&T's as big as possible (e.g. 1/3 to 2/5 of the rail thickness thick, leave 1/4" to 3/8" shoulders top and bottom and make the length about 1" less than the width of the stile or at least as deep as you can make the mortises depending on your method. This is an advantage of the craftsman style, nice wide rails and stiles. I'll usually split the M&T on a real tall bottom rail to avoid cross grain issues. Not only pin them, draw bore them 2 per tenon. If you can do so use only vertical grain for the rails and stiles. Wenge is another nice substitute for Ebony.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Water glass is also the name for a particular style of plate glass that features a wavy appearance.
John,
I'll use all vertical grain wood for every member except the center mullion on the lower portion of the door. For this I have a Beautiful piece of rift sawn fir that I've resawn for a nice bookmatched piece that I'll join together and then cut at a slight taper (becoming larger from top to bottom) As I understand my shelf should/could/can extend through the door into the the interior with corbels on each side. Sounds nice. Again thanks so much for the input. Rich Collins
John,
A couple more followup questions: Is a 10" wide bottom rail worthy of two tenons or can I get by with a single large one? Regarding the shelf issue I may have misunderstood you. At this point I assume you meant that shelf w/corbels could be on each side. If so do I use a common horizontal member for the shelf? If the shelf should protrude out only to the exterior is it normal to run the shelf over the top of the middle rail into interior or does shelf simply butt up against the top exterior edge of rail? Any tips on draw boring holes for square pegs or is technique "self evident?" Again thank you. Rich
I'd split the tenon in a 10" rail with a 1" wide stub tenon about 1/2" long. I'd apply the shelf and corbels as opposed to complicating things with a through horzontal shelf. For draw boring I drill through the stiles (insert a scrap same size as the tenon) using a bradpoint bit. Then I dry clamp the rails in place and use the bradpoint bit to mark the center of the pin on the tenon cheek. Then off set the hole though the tenon 1/32 to 1/16" towards the shoulder. Taper the end of the pin and pound it home. This is for dowels, but the same can be done with square pegs and a hollow chisel mortiser.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Racwood,
For your glass check out http://www.bendheim.com/art.html they are the primo manufacturer of restoration glass. They have an impressive list of projects, that includes the White House and Monticello. I've dealt with them and I highly recommend them.
Bill
I think this is the name of the company that I used to shop at when I was working with leaded and copperfoil stained glass. It is on the lower tip of Manhattan, and back in the early 80's was a great place to visit. Older building, nooks and cranies filled with new and older stuff. Huge place. Worth a trip if you are near NYC.
Edited 1/17/2003 3:59:07 PM ET by s4s
The December issue of Popular Woodworking has an article on how to make Craftsman style doors. I'm pretty sure about the title of the mag altho I can't swear to it. It's one of the three sold at Lowes mag stand.
For your "slightly wavy" glass pick up a couple of old window sashes at your local architecture salvage yard and take the glass from them. Up here I buy 'em for a buck, take out the glass (manage to break about 1 out of 5) and use the glass to make old fashioned wooden storm windows for old houses. Clients love the look. I laugh at the prices folks get for reproduction wavy glass!
Jim
I have just built a new A&C style home and managed to obtain a very old front enty door in the same style. The corbels/shelf are only on the outside. The wood us very hard quarter cut douglas fir and the glass is bevelled. I had to remove several coats of paint, and refinished with Watco. I even rebuilt the lockset. Looks great.
Jim
Oops.. I screwed up, and I apologize. I told you the Dec issue of Popular Woodworking detailed how to make Craftsman style doors. But when I went home last night to check my facts.. I discovered that the pullout section in that mag details how to make Shaker style doors.. not Craftsman. Sorry.
bill
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