Craftsman TS Hand-wheel Replacement
PhillipB
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Hello,
My Craftsman TS hand-wheel(s) need replacing. Does anyone know of a source for these? I would prefer to have all-metal replacements if any are available. I’ve attached two photos which should help.
All comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Phillip
Replies
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category.aspx?key=240470
------------------------------------
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools.
-- Herbert Spencer (1891)
Thank you, sir!I've grieved over these bloody wheels for too long. Much obliged.Phillip
Just FYI, Grizzly does not make/sell hand-wheels to fit the Craftsman TS. They sent me an email stating as much. I was really drooling when I saw what Grizzly had to offer. I loved that all metal hand-wheels. However, I got a little suspicious when I could not determine how the wheels attached. Anyway, we tried.I appreciate your help.PhillipEdited 10/27/2006 6:25 pm by PhillipB
Edited 10/27/2006 6:26 pm by PhillipB
They have many handwheels with a variety of mounting methods, what they do not have is a cross reference to every tool ever made. What is the diameter of the shaft on your saw and what method is used to secure the handwheel? The Grizzly catalog has detailed specs, maybe I can help you find one that is appropriate. I had assumed that when you knew of a source you would figure out which wheel was appropriate to your needs. If all you are willing to do is call a supplier and ask if they have a wheel that will fit a craftsman saw you will be lucky if they do more than laugh while hanging up.------------------------------------
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)
Hi Phillip,
Am I missing something with the Grizzly handwheel and the Craftsman wheel? The Grizzly wheel has a 1/2" id and the Craftsman saw has a 1/2" od rod with about 3/8" missing from the last ~1/2" of the rod. It looks to me like, key stock may be used to wedge the Grizzly hand wheel or the G wheel can be drilled and tapped for a set screw to rest on the flat of the TS rod. Of course another option is to reuse the aluminum piece from my existing plastic wheels with as a insert into the Grizzly wheel.
Please let me know what I'm missing as I decide to do some metal working vs spending $21 more for the Craftsman part.
Thanks,
Joe
Joe, I was just responding to DGREEN who saw my last post to you and said that drilling out the Grizzly h-w could be easily done with a hand drill. Good to know that.These are my thoughts and correct me if I'm off base.(1) Your TS sounds identical to mine, meaning that a flat has been ground off the 1/2-inch h-w arbor which accommodates the hex-shaped h-w insert which can be seen in the photos I attached in my starting post.(2) Your comment about using a "wedge" may work but I believe that just the set screw would suffice. I would use a large set screw. I think this would be more secure than a smallish one. We both know how TS swarf can make it hard to turn those wheels which is probably why the plastic wheels don't hold up: too much force placed on them while turning. For sure we can do a bit more maintenance, but that's never fun on a TS. Perhaps using some form of non-sticky lubricant would go a long way in this regard.(3) Now, your last comment "reuse the aluminum piece from my existing plastic wheels with as a insert into the Grizzly wheel." My insert is hex-shaped. I do not know what yours is, but I would think is would be identical. If it is like mine, then you'd have to find a wheel with that type of opening or, find a wheel with a 5/8-inch bore and do the set-screw thing again. Problem with that is idea is that my wheel was held on with a small screw. Going the route just described, you would have to tighten the set screw enough to force the insert against the TS arbor to keep it on. I hope this makes sense to you.So, if I were going with the Grizzly h-w's, I'd just purchase the h-w's with the 1/2-inch bore (model #H3472) and drill and tap them out for a set screw like DGREEN wrote. The caption says they're "cast metal", I'm not sure if that is aluminum. Other captions say "cast iron", so I'm not sure what they mean by "cast metal". If it's aluminum they should probably say that.Those are my thoughts. Let me know what you decide.Phillip
Edited 10/29/2006 5:25 pm by PhillipB
Thanks guys,
Yes, you did a excellent job answering all of my questions. I will be ordering the Grizzly wheels soon.
Joe
Good.I'll report back on the Sears h-w's when they get here. If they're not what I'm expecting, I'll ship them back and order the Grizzly's like we chatted about earlier.Take care.Phillip
Joe,The Sears hand-wheels came today and they look pretty good. They're heavier than I thought they would be so they must be cast steel rather than aluminum. They have a 1/2-inch hole fitted with a set screw to fit the flat in the arbor. They fit very well. I really like the attached handles. They turn freely and fit my hand very nicely. I've seen handles befoe that are too short, but these feel very good in my hand. I can't believe I've waited so long to get these. These definitely put a smile on my face today. I've attached a few photos as well. Let us know what you're going to do.Cheers!
<These definitely put a smile on my face today.>How good is that? Glad you're back in business. The difference between the original part and the replacement tells me that Sears is thinking a little more clearly now. Good for them -- long live Sears!Mike
Amen! and Amen! to that. I couldn't have done it without your help. Can't thank you enough.Again, the one thing that really made my day when they arrived was the fit of the rotating handle - they are very ergonomic. In all seriousness, keeping the undercarriage clean would go a long way to making adjusting the TS blade easier. I need to find some sort of "dry" lubricant that can be used rather than the WD40 or ProLong SPL100 that I've been using. And no, ProLong is not a predecessor to VIAGRA, it's a patented lubricant that really does wonders to my INCA band saw guide bearings. But that's another topic altogether. Maybe I'll start a thread on that ...Now, I need to get back to rasing and lowering my TS blade. Grin.Take care.
< I need to find some sort of "dry" lubricant>I use Bostik NEVER•SEEZ Gel Lube. It's a spray, and dries kind of dry, but still gathers some saw dust. I've never tried it, but I've heard that paraffin wax works quite well and doesn't attract dust. Anyway, glad to be of some assistance.Mike
Interesting comment on the paraffin wax. I have several chunks in a plastic bag that I use on all of my screws that go into wood. My Grandfather used to use candle wax which dependent on temperature, would work or not.Problem with using it on a TS, as I see it, is first of all, just getting up under there to rub it on, and secondly, getting it to stay. It's "flaky", but In a drill hole, it can't get away. TS's are another matter altogether. I'm not too sure I'd go that route.A few years ago I would melt it and then dip a end into it to seal it. That worked very well, but no way this method could be done on a TS.Thanks for the Bostik name. I'll look into it.Take care,
Phillip
Yeah, try the Bostik. It's OK, not great, but OK. And, I forgot to mention, nice hair and eyebrows, but the nose, the nose -- you really should lay off the booze. That's a gin blossom and a half!
You mean it shows? You can really tell?Ah, man. And all this time I was worrying about my breath. Geeeezz, now I'm gonna hafta buy a mirror. Sur hope I can find a metal one. Wouldn't wanna get any glass in my shiny new red shoes.Grin.
... keeping the undercarriage clean would go a long way to making adjusting the TS blade easier. I need to find some sort of "dry" lubricant that can be used rather than the WD40 or ProLong SPL100 that I've been using.
Hi Phillip,
Try lithium grease. I've been using that since it was recommended by DeWalt for their planner. Someone told me another idea today for a dry lubricant. I have not tried it yet, but since I found baby oil to work great in many places in the shop, this idea is not too far fetched? Chapstick or a equivalent. Does this make since? What is in the Chapstick?
Joe
<Chapstick or a equivalent. Does this make since? What is in the Chapstick?>I'd stay away from health care products in the shop. I lubricated my saw with Preparation H once and it seized up tighter than a drum, though the burning on thick rips did stop.
Joe,Thanks for the Lithium grease comment.Because this is going off-topic, I have begun a new post on dry lubricants for TS. You may want to take a look and make some comments of your own.What have you finally decided to do about your TS hand-wheels? Let us know.Thanks for all you help. Phillip
I have two Grizzly H3472 Hand Wheels on my Christmas list.
Good for you. In that case you'd best be behavin' goodly 'cause ol' Santa's gonna check his list twice ... any you know the rest of it. Grin.Take care.
Wow! They look a lot better than I would have expected. Maybe I will order one Craftsman part to replace the broken/repaired wheel. I could actually use 4 wheels. That is a big reason in favor of the Grizzly wheels. I have stashed away another Craftsman TS I brought for the cast iron wings and future spare parts if/when required. With the wheels looking that good I may put the spare TS together and resell it.
Thanks for the photos!
Joe, Yes, the wheels are very nice, but they're $21 each and times 4 plus S/H, you're talking a lot of $$$. I still think your original idea of going with the Grizzly's is a good one. For sure you still have to drill and tap each for the set screw placement, but you can save some bucks by DIY. Your choice. DGREEN said drilling would be a snap with either the drill press or a hand drill. My choice would be the drill press if you have one. Tapping would have to be done with a bit long enough to insure that the bit handle is not obstructed by the hand-wheel. If you have all of that or can borrow it, then you're good to go. If you have to buy it, then the Sears option may be the less expensive option.Decisions, decisions ...Take care.
NEED MORE INFO
Hi,
how could I get the same hand-wheel in metal to replace the plastic handwheel from my 1970 or 1980 old craftsman 10'' table saw, with plastic handwheel. direct-drive motor. I can't read the model number.I just know the photo that you took of plastic handwheel.
I'm in Canada,QC
My table saw was my father. So, I would like it to work.
thank you,
Chris
PS:Sorry I'M unable to send my photo also when I clic preview it show 3 pictures that I didn't choose at all.....
That's a great link. I've bookmarked it, and am now scheming about how to replace the dinky plastic tension knob on my bandsaw with one of Grizzly's all metal ones!
Mike D
Hi Mike;
If you don't already have one, have them send you a print catalog. It's got all the info you'll need, hole size, whether it needs to be bored etc.------------------------------------
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)
I've sold several of those on Ebay, and have seen several others....usually $5-$6.
Edited 10/27/2006 6:36 am ET by Knotscott
Hi,
I did not know that Grizzly had such inexpensive wheels. Maybe I will treat myself and upgrade to a metal wheel for height adjustments. I exchanged my broken front wheel with the little used side (angle) wheel. That wheel is holding together fine with a dollar store epoxy repair. So, I know the even cheap epoxy can provide a quick and dirty solution.
It's good to see someone else is also using an old Craftsman table saw.
Joe
Joe,Thanks for jumpin' in. Glad to hear your comments.First of all, Grizzly does not have hand-wheels to fit my Craftsman TS. I emailed them (with photos as well) and they said "sorry, we don't do Craftsman hand-wheels." I was suspicious because the hand-wheels I saw from the link I was provided by DGreen (I believe) did not show how they were attached. You and I know how that works.Anyway, I've been using a 5/8-inch socket and ratchet and this works fine for me. It's slower'n molasses, but it gets the job done. My side wheel is long gone as well.Joe, my Craftsman TS can do everything that I want it to. I was more than a little upset after I bought my Forrest Dado set only to find that my arbor won't handle all of the dado blades. Five-eights-inch is it, but that - IMO - is not reason enough to purchase a new TS. You can be sure that I use good blades and make a lot of sleds to do things, but I just don't see the real benefit of buying a new TS. As we speak, I'm making a larger cross-cut sled - big enough to cut 24-inch pieces - that I've always wanted. I will have to make some special braces at the rear of the TS to keep it from tipping, but that's about an hours worth or work. Again, less than the cost of a new TS. About the only outrageous thing that I've done for this saw is to replace the original belt with a Link-Belt. Take care,
Phillip
If you have the parts list that came with your saw (just the model number of the saw will get you started), and the part number, go to the Sears web site and enter it. I've been able to get most anything I wanted for my 20-year-old Sears radial arm on line.
http://www3.sears.com/
Good luck.
Mike,Thank you very much for the Sears Parts link.I took a look at my manual and discovered that they did make a metal hand wheel but was only for a similar TS which had a left front rip fence guide bar. Mine does not have that extra guide bar. Anyway, I plugged in the part number for my TS hand wheel and found that they were $21 each. I did the same for the metal wheeled TS and it came back with an identical price per wheel. They appear to be the same hand wheel. There was also a phone number which I can use to verify what type of hand wheels these are. At $21 each, I would hope they're all metal.I really appreciate the information you provided. I will give them a call tomorrow.Phillip
Ok Phillip, I'll wait for your post on the metal Crafstman wheels.Thanks,
Joe
Joe,I'll call tomorrow first thing and let you know what I find out.Cheers!
Joe,I just order two new all-metal hand-wheels from Sears. I use the link that Mike_B provided. Spoke to a Sears rep in Tucson and he said that the plastic hand-wheels had been replaced by the all-metal ones. They're $21 each, but worth it. Here's the link again. The phone number I used (from the link) was (800) 252-1698. Give them a call.http://www3.sears.comThe Sears rep asked me if "November 6 was soon enough?" Can't beat that.Cheers,
Phillip
"The Sears Parts site is currently undergoing maintenance." I'll try again on Monday. I still may order the Grizzly H3472 Hand Wheels, they are 2 for $21 but they will require drilling and tapping for a set screw.
Sorry to hear about the Sears website, but there may be a reason for this. If you get the Grizzly hand-wheels you can save about half the cost of the Sears hand-wheels. Drilling may be somewhat problematic unless you have someway to clamp it down while you drill it out. Tapping should be an easier job. I've always believed that things happen for a reason.I may have to go the Grizzly route if I don't like the Sears models.Good luck.Phillip
Don't worry too much about the drilling and tapping. The wheel can be held in a bench vise and drilled quite easily with a hand drill if you have no drill press.------------------------------------
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)
Thanks for that info. I do have a press, but I have this thought.Looking at the Grizzly h-w model H3472 (which I like), it is very difficult to tell from the catalog just how deep the center portion of the wheel is. So, it appears that you would have to have a rather long drill bit so the drill-press chuck would not hit the inside edge of the hand-wheel while drilling it out. I suppose you could tilt the bit to avoid the hand-wheel if you had to.Your comments are always appreciated.Phillip
I went out in the shop and tried it on a 7" hand wheel with a standard length bit in a 1/2" chuck and even assuming a short shoulder you should have plenty of bit. On a 5" wheel you only have 2.5" to reach, should be a piece of cake.------------------------------------
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)
Thank you, sir. I appreciate your help and time. This sounds very encouraging. I've never gone this route before. Good to know it's not that difficult. I perfer to use the drill press so this should work just fine.Thanks again.
You're very welcome.
Drill press would be my choice also.
Sears parts system can be a pricey nightmare, always good to have an alternative.
I have several of Grizzlys "cast metal" hand wheels, I think they are aluminum. I agree it would be nice if they said so but they have served well and I've had no problems.
If you prefer the cast iron wheels they are not much more and the center hole is easily done especially with a drill press. Cast iron actually drills quite easily.------------------------------------
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)
You must be a mind reader as well as a wood worker because that's precisely why I wondered what "cast metal" meant when posting my response to NOBULL4U/Joe, because I have never had to drill cast iron in my day and was wondering how that would work out. Aluminum and steel many times, but never cast iron. Seems to me that threads in aluminum or steel would be preferrable as I recall that cast is somewhat porous. Once again, thanks for your help and comments.
Porous is a relative thing. Think of all the threaded holes in cast iron engine blocks, saw tables, jointers etc.------------------------------------
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)
Excellent point. And come to think about that for a moment, I've never had one of those fail me. I'll remember that.Thanks.
Thanks Phil. Whoever goes with the Grizzly wheels please let us know how it worked it. I certainly will.
Joe
Mike,I just ordered two new all-metal hand-wheels from Sears. I cannot thank you enough for the link you so kindly provided.Sears has replaced the metal-plastic h-w (mine) with an all-metal version. I'll have them by Nov 6. Good luck, in deed, thanks to you.I really appreciate it. Pizza's on the way. Ha!Phillip
Edited 10/28/2006 12:52 pm by PhillipB
Phillip,Glad this worked out for you. Sears has its share of detractors, and in some cases justifiably so, but they also do a lot of things right, and this is a good example.Mike
Mike,Good to hear from you again.I "grew up" with Sears in that my aunt was the Head Cashier in the Santa Fe, NM store back in the '50's. Sears & Roebuck caused quite a stir when it they opened. A lot has happened since then. I won't go there only to say that I've used a lot of Craftsman tools (still do), and my Craftsman Contractor's TS has helped me make some decent pieces over the last ten years that I've owned it. And continues to do so to this day which you already knew because of my need for new hand-wheels to fit it. FWW really gets their chain yanked by me when they do a "tool test" and leave out a comparable Craftsman machine (TS's and routers mostly) in their "(in)complete tool tests". Briefly, after one of my rants, I got an email from Anatole Burkin telling me that they "can't include every tool in a tool test". IMO, Sears has been part of Americana for a long time and some of us still cling to those memories ... and their tools. Guess FWW doesn't see it like that. I'm probably just gettin' ol' and cranky. Grin.Anyway, I cannot thank you enough for the link to Sears' parts store. That helped me solve my problem. Now I can put that Craftsman socket and rachet back in my Crafstman tool box.Happy Halloween,
PhillipP.S. Nice photo. Ha!
Try http://www.carrlane.com They have a wide variety of handwheels.
gnome,Thanks for the link. I just got off the phone with a Sears rep in Tucson and they have replaced the plastic hand-wheels for my TS with all metal ones. So, I'm good to go.Thanks for your time. I appreciate you help.Phillip
When I rebuilt my Craftsman TS a few years ago, I got metal handwheels from Craftsman.
Dave,Thanks for the info. I just spoke to a Sears rep. Sears replaced my TS hand-wheels with all metal ones. They've been ordered and will be here next week.Funny story I have to tell you.He said he was required to ask me a few questions if I didn't mind. So, he asked why I didn't go to my local store for this item. I told him that the last time I was in I went up to the tool counter and the bored-looking lady asked, "Can I help you?". I said, "Yes. I'm looking for feeler gauges." With a startled look on her face, she barked, "Say what?" Man, I thought she was going to smack me a good one. The male rep next to her just rolled his eyes up and said "They're over here, sir." True story. Hopefully he explained to her what I was and was not looking for.I didn't think the Sears guy one the phone would stop laughing. He said he now understood why I didn't shop there.Take care.
I wonder if she got her training at Home Depot - lol.
Probably so, I hear they have night classes there. Grin.H-D is the only place that I know of where they practicaly strip-search you when you leave the store. It's ridiculous. You go straight from the check-out to the door and they look you over hard like you just stuck a shop-vac or something into your back pocket. Then they check your bag, check your receipt and then run a colored-pen over it while giving you a nasty stare. As soon as our new Lowe's opened up they relaxed that pratice. Probably because most of their business went to Lowe's, just like I did.Where I'm from, they just thanked your for shopping with them when you left. Not Chicago. We spent a fortune at H-D when we refurbed our bungalow. Too bad Lowe's wasn't open at that time.Take care.
Several stores around here have tried that "check you as you leave" stuff, but only Costco does it as a regular practice. They can get away with it since they're a membership store and you agree to the exit check as a condition of membership.
I once walked past the "checker" at a Frys Electronics store (a local chain) and some clown tried to grab me. He tried to tell me that I had to let them check my receipt and I told him that my business transaction concluded when I received that receipt from their cashier. At that point the stuff was mine and if he felt that I had stolen something he needed to call a cop because I was certain he didn't have any authority to detain or search me or my possesions. He got a little mouthy so I told him that he needed to call a cop 'cause I was gonna file an assault compliant against him and his employer. The manager got involved and finally told me to go after I threatened to include him in my complaint.
There were a lot of complaints about that practice and when I was back in there a few weeks later, the "checkers" were all young ladies - some of them pretty cute, too.
Several years ago my dad and I walked into a big store and the kid on the counter asked if he could help us. My dad said, "I want a 12" bastard file." I could tell by the look on the kid's face that he thought my dad was p.o. or something. Dad found one and showed him the label to prove that was indeed what it was called.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled