Craftsman TS motor died, replace or new?
My 1 HP craftsman table saw burnt out over the weekend while ripping some oak. I bought the saw for about $100 used. I’m now trying to figure out what to do? I’ve been spending the last 6 months slowly getting a shop together so I can get things going. I’ve thought about replacing the fence (~$200+) and upgrading the pulleys. Now with a new motor I’m out about $300. Should I bother putting more money into this saw or go ahead and get a new saw. I’d ultimately like to get a real cabinet saw that is going to last me for a while and I won’t outgrow anytime soon. I’ve got the money just have to want to spend it.
I’d also like to add to the shop a Bandsaw, jointer, and planer. I know the Bandsaw is a important tool in the shop. Do I need a jointer and planer? I like working with handtools, but those skills are still developing.
I’d appreciate some recommendations on what to do, strategy on what order to buy things in, etc. My budget is not unlimited by any means, but I could go ahead and do it right all at once if that makes sense. My shop currently has a broken table saw, floor drill press, miter saw, router, sanders, drills, and a decent collection of handtools.
Thanks
Replies
The 1 hp motor is seriously underpowered for that saw. I replaced mine with a 1.5 hp Dayton and the aluminum pulleys both broke. Replaced them with iron pulleys and no problems last 10 yrs.
Scott,
Let's be blunt. This is an expensive hobby. By far the cheapest aspect of the hobby are the big power tools...cabinet saw, planer, jointer, bandsaw, etc. It's nice to think you can save huge sums by buying less expensive power tools but it doesn't make sense for two reasons: First, underpowered or poor quality power tools limit the utility and quality of aftermarket add on's like a $250 dado set...or a $100 Forrest blade. Second, wood is expensive...at $3 a foot and up ...several hundred dollars can go into a piece of furniture..you want it as good an outcome as possible.
Good hand tools are expensive, and well worth it, but they take time to learn.
Life is short, if you want a cabinet saw buy one. The planer is essential and a Bandsaw opens up a whole new universe...like a lathe. Again, these are the least expensive investments you'll make in the hobby with the greatest return.
Check around with your friends, somebody has to have a TEFC motor laying around that they will give you. As long as the rpm's are right , voltage and the frame size is close you should be ok. My motor on my craftsman table saw is from a grain auger and is rated at 100% duty cycle ,TEFC, I think it is a Baldor. It weighs about twice what the old one was.
I just interviewed with a company that replaces 100% of their electric motors every time time the equipment is moved even if it has only a couple of months use. Ask around you might be able to find a source.
It sounds to me that even when it was working, that table saw had a bunch of compromises that were frustrating you. Personally I'd see the dead motor as final justification to replace it, although that doesn't necessarily mean buy another table saw immediately. There's a strong argument in favour of putting a good, decent capacity band saw on a higher priority than the table saw, and use a straight edge guided circular saw to stand in for the table saw if only on a short term basis.
Are jointers and thicknessers necessary?? I've learned the hard (read expensive) way... HECK no...!! 4 good hand planes will replace them (scrub, jack, jointer&smoother), and remove the constraints of working within the limitations of the machines. The cost that would otherwise have gone into the dust collector can be put into building a good, solid bench instead. Whether you prep stock with machines or hand tools, to begin with, there's a learning curve.
The hand plane curve isn't all that steep, more rewarding when you get it right and far more forgiving when you get it wrong. In a small shop set up, there's a lot to be said for being able to store your stock preparation tools in a drawer when you're done with them, freeing up the shop space to do what you want to do.
Buying quality hand tools (or machines too for that matter) is invariably cheaper in the long run; they're built to get the job done properly, first time, every time... they'll also accelerate the learning curve by removing all the "is it me or the tool that's wrong" guesswork...
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Might I suggest a General 50-185 its what is going to replace my Craftsman saw.
Check it out here.
http://www.general.ca/product/inter/50175an.html
Sucking.......Whoosh.......Yowl........Whoosh.........Thrump puttytat up the DC..
Edited 12/7/2004 8:47 pm ET by Original-Bart
If you want to replace the motor go to a motor shop and buy 1 1/2 hp used one. They routinely sell unclaimed repaired motors fairly cheeply. For instance I bought a 5hp 240V motor for my "free" planer from a local motor shop for $125.
On the otherhand if you really want a cabinet saw get the cabinet saw. Putting expensive machined pulleys, link belts, and a Biesmeyer clone on a Crapsman saw is like putting Pirelli's on a Pinto. You still have a freakin Pinto. I went with a Jet and I am very happy with it, but there are several other good choices out there. Of course after you get the saw you're going to need good blades to really appreciate it. I recommend FS Tools blades. You won't believe the difference the saw and blade will make, especially in ripping.
(Psst. I don't want the safety goon-squad to hear this but, I intentionally tried to stall my saw with 8/4 QSWO and was blown away by just how hard that was to do.)
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
Hey scott,
I also have the same dilema with my old 8in Delta. I burned up the 3/4 hp when cuting some hickory. I am looking to purchase a 2hp motor and a Shop Fox fence. When a called around to motor shops on prices they were around $250. One guy told me to look at the harbor freight motors. They are selling a 2hp heavy duty compressor motor for $95. The motor is reversible and can be wired for 220V. I just don't know much about Harbor freights motor's. And I am looking for someone who knows something about them. Before I buy one.
When the motor on my Grizzly contractors saw died 2 years ago, I bought a new 2 hp. Delta motor on e-Bay for in the neighborhood of $100. Of course, it wouldn't fit the Grizzly, so off to my local steel guy to bend up a new plate steel mount. That was cheap, say $10, plus a Saturday afternoon fiddling around. And it improved the saw's performance greatly.
I'm about to upgrade to a Unisaw, but the new motor will allow me to sell the Grizz to some poor, unsuspecting... never mind. Actually, I'm giving it to a friend. The point is that buying the motor limped the saw along for a couple of more years until I was in the position to upgrade. And it preserved some value on a saw that otherwise was worth more as scrap than as a tool.
Andy
Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
Thanks for the follow up.
Still debating on the final course of action, but I'm leaning towards going ahead and buying the saw I really want that will satisfy my needs and tool buying desires. I'm looking at the Grizzly Cabinet saws as they seem to offer alot for the price. I could probably manage to afford a Jet, but I think I would rather save some money for other tools. I think a bandsaw would be a great addition. Then I am debating over the need for a joiner and planer vs spending a % of that on a nice set of planes.
If you had to buy only one would it be a joiner or a planer?
If you are considering a 6 or 8 inch jointer, then you will only be able to edge joint most of your boards, which can be done on a well-adjusted table saw with a good blade.
A thickness planer doesn't make boards flat, but it makes them constant thickness - the two surfaces parallel. Basically it is the only choice to do that job, and the "under $500 planers" do a pretty good job.
I am putting my money where my mouth is... my 16 inch jointer and planer are due in a few weeks, replacing my 6 inch jointer and 12 inch planer.
I would not invest in upgrading a cheap saw. It is amazing the difference a good saw makes. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
I'd stretch for the Jet ts, myself. And I'd buy the widest jointer I could afford. Eight inch is a good starting point. Unless you first flatten your stock on a jointer, running it through a planer simply reproduces all the waves and wows of the reference side of the board.
AndyAndy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
You mentioned looking at the Grizzly cabinet saw. Give them a good look. I bought the 1023slx a few months back, and it's a fine saw. The customer service is excellent. Do a search on the 1023 here, and you will see a lot of feedback on them. After researching, and talking to a few folks here, I took the chance. I don't regret it one bit. Good luck on the decision.
I think this post is equiavalent to the $100 saddle on the $10 horse. I'd scrap that piece of c r a p , and use it as a boat anchor. Its served its purpose. Move on.There are better saws to rebuild if you want to, try an old Rockwell or Delta Cabinet saw, the one with the Art Deco lettering. Way Cool.Regards,
Boris"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I was in the same position and ended up fixing up my old craftsman saw, but the more things i did, the more it needed. Just then a unisaw fell into my lap which is very lucky for me, but if that diddnt happen, i'd get the grizzley cabinet saw. I've heard its great
measure once
scribble several lines
spend some time figuring out wich scribble
cut the wrong line
get mad
Some of the older Craftsman machines are among the best small woodworking tools ever made and are well worth restoring. Everyone posting here seems to be presuming that you have a saw of fairly recent vintage that would not be worth the trouble of repairing. Since you bought the machine used, this may not be true.
I don't see how anyone could have an informed opinion without at least knowing the model of the saw you have. If you post the saw's model number you might get some truly useful feedback. The number you are looking for starts with three digits followed by a decimal point and then another four to six digits.
Also, what do you mean when you say that the saw's motor burned out? Many Craftsman motor failures are due to stuck starter or thermal overload switches and can be easily and inexpensively repaired.
Concerning the other tools on your list, if you aren't going to be preparing your stock with hand planes, you will need a jointer and a planer before you need a band saw because you can't do anything useful with crooked wood.
John W.
Thanks toby for your input. The more I think about this upgrade the more I am thinking about selling this saw and buying a new one.
I you have space, buy a cheap Harbor Freight (or equivalent) far east 1 1/2 HP motor and keep the saw. Put a dado on it and leave it under a bench - you'll really love having the dado available without having to change the blade on the good table saw I'd recommend that you buy to replace it. Remember, you only spent $100 for it! Even with an $80 motor, it's a cheap saw.
I kept my first saw, a craftsman 8" motorized saw and keep a wide dado on it. I removed the legs so it fits under the bench that holds the miter saw.
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