Replies

1. 
   ubc | Nov 03, 2006 12:06am | #1

   I've built 'em with 2x4's and plywood. The 2x's are layed on edge spaced the width as required, a piece of ply goes on top of the 2x's forming the bottom. Then cut pieces of ply for the 4 sides and top, stuff bubble wrap (or similar) around the object, fasten the sides, then the top.

   Oh I forgot to mention: put a couple 2x's around the inside perimiterof the bottom and top set back the thickness of the ply. This will give you a solid backer to attach the sides to.

   If you really want to go nuts: build a frame from 1x's first to enclose the object, then wrap the frame with ply. And don't forget the bubble wrap, lots of bubble wrap :)!

   just my two cents

2. 
   ubc | Nov 03, 2006 12:08am | #2

   P.S.

   The 2x's on the bottom will keep the crate off the ground making room for a fork lift.

3. 
   citrouille | Nov 03, 2006 12:25am | #3

   I always put the 2 x 4 on the outside, leaving a flat surface all around inside.

   C.

4. 
   joinerswork | Nov 03, 2006 12:42am | #4

   gordon,

   In addition to what's already been said, it's best to suspend the item to be shipped inside the crate from cribbing screwed to the inside of the container.  If a table, the cribbing would run under the aprons so that the legs are kept off the bottom of the crate.  Attach blocking so that the table can't slide around on the cribbing, then more cribbing on top of the top.  Then put the top on the crate.  Make sure everything is well padded, of course.

   Ray Pine

1. 
   JohnWW | Nov 03, 2006 01:28am | #5

   For a lot less trouble and probably a lower risk of damage, consider calling a household mover, like Bekins or Mayflower, and have them blanket wrap it and ship it.  There are also shipping companies which specialize in furniture moving that offer a similar service. 

   We have done this regularly at Fine Woodworking Magazine with no problems.  Another advantage is that they will deliver the piece to a household address for no extra charge and actually bring it into the house, things a regular freight carrier typically charges extra for. 

   Be sure to get it insured for its true value, the basic insurance you get automatically from a household mover is insufficient.

   If you are going to crate it and ship it by common carrier, the crate should be made from 1/2" thick plywood to give the piece a fighting chance against a spearing by a fork lift.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   joinerswork | Nov 03, 2006 04:20pm | #6

   John,

   While you are undoubtedly correct, in my area, it has been impossible to find a commercial mover to take only a single piece where and when I needed to ship. Perhaps in a larger, more urban area this is a viable way to go.

   I've shipped quite a few pieces, and the crates I build get comments about their durability from the carriers, and clients, when they arrive.  The largest shipment I made was a 4' x 8' dining table,and 12 upholstered chairs, from VA to CO.  The table was an extension table. I shipped it with the two halves of the top separated and superimposed over one another, suspended as I described.  The crate was a cube, approx 5 1/2' on each side.  The chairs were shipped two to a crate, one right side up, the other upside down, seat to seat.  All arrived intact.

   You are right that a crate ought to be engineered to take the worst that a carrier can dish out.  Dropping off the tail of the truck, exposure to rain, bumping with forklift forks.

   For smallish pieces, I've had good luck with UPS.   I wrap the piece, and let them pack and box it.

   Freight carriers aren't happy to move furniture, as it is subject to damage claims, if it isn't crated properly.  They charge accordingly.  Some at least, will give a break on costs (lower rate/ 100 lbs) if the furniture is KD (knocked down, or partially disassembled).

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

1. 
   geppetto425 | Nov 03, 2006 08:04pm | #7

   FYI......
   I've helped unload a couple of containers full of antiques. One was from England and the last one from India. The one from England had corrugated cardboard wrapped around each piece , then sealed with packing tape. The shipment from India had bubble wrap and foam around each piece then packing tape with extra foam around corners, and these were all solid teak! They totally pack the container with the furniture so they can't shift. Containers full of furniture are considered light so they go on top of all the other containers on the ship, the higher up the more it is going to pitch and roll. I'm amazed that there is no damage. Of course if you are shipping an individual piece it's best to build a box around it.

5. 
   philip | Nov 04, 2006 06:36am | #8

   Gordon, if you want a box it is built using sheet goods like plywood. If you want a crate for shipping goods in need of strong protection then the proper way is is to use solid timber such as 3/4 inch pine in widths of around 4 inches.
   For a crate two end frames are made up by nailing the timber to end battens, with further batons as required parallel to the end battens. The nails are usually clenched.The ends are connected by side pieces which are merely lengths of 4 inch material nailed to the sides-but if it is a heavy duty crate the sides themselves can also be made up like the ends, ditto for the bottom. The top will be strips nailed on. Smooth sidein i.e all battens are on the outside, battens on the bottom spaced to suit fork or pallet lifter.
   That is the cheapest and quickest way to do it, especially if you are good with hammer and 3inch nails.Try getting one of these apart when the nails are clenched and the blind nails are put in at an angle.... I know because I worked for a factory that specialised in cratinfg for tobacco shipping and other hammer and nail stuff like cable drums and bottle boxes. The experience was helpful when I needed to pack all my stuff and ship it to New Zealand.
   Obviously the goods need to be wrapped in protective material to suit and restrained within the crate.

   Philip Marcou