Replies

1. 
   craigmoe | Jan 03, 2004 06:00pm | #1

   I think there are a couple ways to make this nosing, but it might depend on the shape and width of the nosing.  For consistency of grain and appearance, my preference would be the first option you mentioned - to laminate strips in the curve, and change the thickness to account for the recess.  This shouldn't be too difficult if the curvature is not too tight and the width of the nosing board is not more than a few inches.

   If the width of the nosing is several inches, or the curvature is too tight, you could cut a 3/4" board(s) to match the hardwood flooring with the curve.  Then I would cut strips from thicker lumber (to match the nosing) and laminate these onto the curved board.  This would give you a relatively strong nosing board with the required recess, but there will be a noticeable difference in the grain pattern.

   A third option would be to glue up lumber that is the thickness of the nosing, cut the necessary curve, and then create the recess with a router.  This would require a template to guide the router along the curve, and a jig/fixture of some sort to give the router a solid base while removing stock from the wide recessed area.  For example, you could take the scrap that is left after cutting the inside of the nosing curve, and set it next to the nosing board.  Then you could make a secondary router base plate with the diameter at least twice as great as the width of your recess.  This way, both sides of the router base will be resting on the thicker sections of the nosing and scrap, while the router removes the excess.  An alternative would be to cut a plywood rectangle that is longer than the width of the recess, and then cut a wide slot in the plywood.  The slot should be no wider than your router base (preferably half the diameter) and as long as the width of the recess.  This plywood template could be fastened to the nosing section and the scrap of the same thickness, and the router could create a section of the recess through the plywood "slot."  The plywood can be moved progressively down the curve to rout sections of the recessed area.  You would probably want to use a flush cutting bit, or a bushing to prevent accidentally routing the plywood template.

   Hopefully this is helpful.  Sorry if my descriptions are verbose or confusing.  Good Luck.

   Craig

1. 
   SKOlson | Jan 03, 2004 06:58pm | #2

       Thanks for the suggestions,  I appreciate the help,  The curve isn't too tight,  the nosing goes on two sides of the sunkem living room, and the curve is the transition between.  What is going to make it interesting, is that the floor is Cumaru, or Brazilian Teak.  I'm going to make the stairnose out of white oak, because of it willingness to bend.  I'm not sure how I'm going to cut the Cumaru to fit against the nose, probably use my pattern and a router .  This Cumaru is extremely hard stuff, and I have no expereince with it. 

1. 
   craigmoe | Jan 03, 2004 07:25pm | #3

   I also have no experience with the wood you mentioned.  I think a router and pattern is the best approach to cutting the pattern.  You might want to consider using bushings of different sizes and the same pattern to cut the edge of the floor and the nosing.  I built an elliptical staircase last year, and each return was a custom curved cut.  To ensure the fit was perfect, I used a single template and different size bushings to cut the end of the tread and the return with my router.  Although it is a smaller scale, the same approach should work for you.  I will attempt to post a picture of one of my returns so you can see what I mean.  If you are not familiar with using different size bushings and a single pattern to cut matching curves, let me know and I will explain in more detail.  Hopefully my picture will post correctly...it has been a while.