Replies

1. 
   JayS | Sep 04, 2006 06:20pm | #1

   If you use preveneered mahogany plywood I didn't follow your question about the poplar substrate.  You already have the mahogany ply as a substrate.  You want to be sure the edge veneer goes on before the t p veneer or else the edge veneer will have an edge exposed on the top surface, which will catch on things and chip off during use.  The top surface should cover the edge of the edge veneer.  I like hide glue which obviates the need for clamps and is very forgiving if you haven't done this before.  First rout a very shallow rabbet equal to the thickness of your satinwood veneer so that when it is glued in it will be flush to the surface of the mahogany. he black line between the satinwood and the mahogany should be a piece of 1/6 or whatever thickness veneer glued on edge and held against the main field of the table top with push pins.  When the glue dries, remove the pins and start placing the satinwood strips.  Remember that these are short strips crosscut the width of the board from whcih the veneer was taken, and the long grain running perpendicular to the edge of the table top.  Good luck.

   Jay

1. 
   craigpfds | Sep 04, 2006 07:53pm | #2

   Thanks JayS for your response. 

   The poplar was to be used to make a 2-ply with the satinwood veneer to help stabilize and stiffen it. Then as you say, I would need to rout for the thickness of the now 2-ply satinwood to attach it to the mahog. plywood.

   Any benefits to putting in the black line first? In the Headley article, he puts the stringing line in after the crossband has been attached.  He uses a router to get a clean groove to inlay the black line into.

   Craig  

1. 
   JayS | Sep 05, 2006 03:14am | #3

   I'm sure you can do it both ways, but if your butt joint between the end of the satinwood is not perfectly parallel to the edge of the table, the 1/16 inch bit can go slightly more into the mahogany side or into the satinwood side.  The way I describe allows sort of sequential assembly from the center of the table outward. This is how Phil Lowe demonstrated it in a course I did with him. I suspect it's an older "traditional" method, perhaps pre-router days.

    When I did it last I also didn't have a 1/16 inch bit.  I have never had a problem applying the satinwood directly to the substrate.

   Jay

2. 
   joinerswork | Sep 05, 2006 03:59pm | #4

   Craig,

   As far as whether to put in the stringing before or after the crossbanding.  If the top is not rectangular, it is a chore to fit the edge of the banding into its mating curved recess.  Inlaying the string last will cover any gaps in the joint between the banding and the top.  I like to have a little "fudge factor" wherever I can, a last chance to cover any inadvertant "design changes" when they occur.

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

1. 
   craigpfds | Sep 05, 2006 04:12pm | #5

   Hi Ray,

   The top will have 6" radiused corners so as you say, I might need a little "fudge factor" to get things to come out with a tight fitting seam between the stringing and the satinwood.  I may try a couple of "practice corners" with plywood scrap and try both ways of putting in the stringing before and after gluing down the satinwood.

   My plan to get the stringing to bend around the curve is to use an iron or something like it to gently coax the fragile strip around the curve. It would probably be more stable to rout the groove after the satinwood is in place, that way it can help hold the stringing in place as the glue dries.

   I will keep you posted on how things turn out.

   Craig

1. 
   JayS | Sep 05, 2006 05:08pm | #6

   Good point about concealing any gaps.  I just fitted my satinwood very carefully  by manually sanding a slight radius against a sanding drum (turned off).  To make the stringing bend, I took a copper pipe (3/4 diameter) and slid it over the end of a ropane torch.  Dip the stringing in water or bruch on, and then draw the stringing back and forth over the heated pipe until you bend it to the desired curvature.  Be careful not to touch the pipe, obviously. This is only necessary for the corners if thee is a tight diameter curve.