Cross Cut with Miter or Table Saw?
I have both a table saw and a 12″ sliding compound miter saw.
I do not have a cross-cut sled but plan on building one someday.
Am I better off using the table saw or the miter saw for cross cuts
of fairly narrow boards. ( < 6″)
I know that for anything wider than the capacity of the miter saw,
I need to use the table saw.
What blade is recommended for CLEAN cross cuts on mostly Oak, Maple, and Cherry using the miter saw?
80T or do I bother with 96T?
Any other issues to consider? Assuming both are square, etc?
Replies
I would use the mitre saw for cross cutting the narrow stuff. As for blade I would seek quality over tooth count. Go to a manufacturers web site and get a recommendation for your particular application. You cant go wrong with forrest, freud or cmt.
Thanks!
I'd go with whichever is the more accurate tool. My CMS is fairly sloppy so I use the TS unless the board is really long.
Regarding the blade - I'd agree that quality is more importanty than quantity of teeth, but also keep in mind that the hook angle is more important for the miter saw. It should be slightly negative to mildly positive, (-5 to 10 degrees). An aggressive hook angle will tend to grab the wood too much. Most good manufacturers will identify what applications a blade is best suited for. I also agree that Freud and Forrest are awefully good....haven't tried a CMT yet but they appear to be well made.
I decided to go with the Forrest Chopmaster. I have some molding to put up next week in the baby's room so it was a good excuse to buy it.
There is a big difference between a table saw and a slider in accuracy. A properly tuned table saw with an accurate sled and a good 80pt. fine cut off blade gives the most accurate cuts. The slider can also give excellent cuts but not as fine as the sled. For most projects either will be very good. It's easier to cut long pieces on the slider since the saw does the moving. The best blades that I have found for sliders are the negative hook ones specifically made for this type of saw. I have a bunch of the Freud TFLU9110s, they are inexpensive and long lasting. I think the new models are the LU91M and LU91R, about $50. You don't want a fine tooth cut off blade on a slider, they aren't built for the sliding action you use in reverse. They dull very fast in a slider, also. If you want the best accuracy stay with full body blades, not thin kerf. I install a lot of kitchens, using prefinished moldings. You need accurate cuts that leave a fine finish edge on the face. The Freud blades give those results at a low cost.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
berlinbrian, I have both machines and when I need perfect tight fitting miters the table saw with sled or sliding table is THE way. I use a 60 tooth blade that is designed for cutting laminates but gives a very smooth cut. The chop saws are never quite perfect without a lot of fussing with the settings but when a lots of repeat cuts are the desired mode, as they are at a jobsite, then the chop saw wins. And hey, you know the old saying "caulk is cheap". aloha, mike
I'd go for the miter saw on crosscuts, depending on the length of the board, the table saw may not be the most desirable. The miter saw would be the most efficient in the amount of labor required and energy consumed.
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