Hi,
I install large quantities of slatwall made from mdf. They are 4×8 panels that are used in interiors of stores for hooks and shelf accesories. Sometimes they are prefinished wood or paint and the cuts have to be accurate. On some jobs with alot of columns and corners there are alot of cuts to be made accuratly. All of the mdf panels are kind of bowed as the face has all of the slots routed out of them. My staight edge clamp does not stay on very well because of the bow. I would have to measure the offset of the skill saw fence everytime. Lately too speed things up I have made a zero clearance straight edge to clamp on to the panel and cut with the skill saw on one side and the router on the other. I use the router only if I have to take a bit more off like 1/16 otherwise i use the skill saw. It works good but I was wondering if anyone else had other ideas. Most of the cuts are tapered on each end of the panel. So you have to cut the sheets twice alot. Also slat was is not usully milled square so it is a pain. Any ideas.
Also I use a good finish blade on the skill saw but, how do you make the fence parallel to the blade. Only a few skill saws have this set screw addjustment. My boush does not so I twisted it parell and filled the alluminum fence parell to the blade. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Ace
Replies
I've used slatwall in my store, though never had to work it with tools, but I know what you mean about it not being flat. The first thing I would do is be sure I had a solid base to lay it on when cutting. Sounds like you are doing your work in the storefront, on sawhorses? I would use a sheet of 3/4" plywood underneat it has a support, and place the slatwall grooved-side-down. This should give you a nice solid, flat surface for your saw to ride on.
If the backbone of your zero-clearance guide is make of 2x2" or better, it should stay nice and solid on the workpiece. Perhaps you could add some kind of quick-clamp to make it more efficient.
Tru-Grip's "Pro ft'r Series" clamps provide T-slots that accomodate either a router base plate or a saw base plate that rides the edge of the clamp. With the commercial nature of your work, these might be worth investing in. It would cost you about $160 for the 8' gauge and the two bases. (See Tool Crib catalog)
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Also check out the Jointability, http://www.jointability.com, which is sort of a straight edge clamp on steroids. It squeezes the sheet flat in a long press clamp that then acts as a guide for your saw and router. It's easy to square the sheet to the clamp. Disadvantage: they are heavy buggers, especially the 8' model. It would be a drag taking it from site to site.
Not any suggestions really, however, I use an old flush interior door to support my sheets (on top of either saw horses or set up table)....its light and has enough size to support the sheet..and provides a surface for clamping.
This PSI portable panel saw is lightweight, inexpensive, cuts at any angle and is balls on accurate.
http://a4.cpimg.com/image/02/42/8247554-2542-028001E0-.jpg
Here's a little more info on the PSI (Penn State INdustries) panel saw:
http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PSI&Category_Code=PSforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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