Replies

1. 
   BG | Nov 03, 2003 12:30am | #1

   Pete,

   I did a search on the home page here...Jan-Feb. 98 #128 has an article on sled building.  Also, there is a video clip on fine tuning your crosscut sled which might be useful to you too...just do a search on the home page...
1. 
   MarkRoderick | Nov 03, 2003 01:08am | #2

   Look in the index for American Woodworker at their web site.

2. 
   ron61 | Nov 03, 2003 03:55am | #3

   I don't know about the issue Buttttttttttt

   If you want a very strong accurate and  good design crosscut sled  check this one out-

   I built one at the cabinet shop to replace the old junker they had been using on one of the unisaws. Everyone loves it's square cuts -

    I also put a thin metal ruler inset on the right side of the blade to the edge of the sled- you could get fancy and make it adjustable- " I use it to square up door panels"

   I found this plan at Highland Hardware site the plan has a Great way to set the fence to get PERFECT square cuts.

   You will love it.   http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/slidingtable.pdf

   Ron

   Who Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 03, 2003 07:04am | #4

   Kelly Mehler has a nice one in his book and video 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

3. 
   MBerger | Nov 03, 2003 08:08pm | #5

   Steve latta describes an assortment of sleds in Issue #160, pages #104-108.

1. 
   scooter1 | Nov 03, 2003 09:52pm | #6

   HTC makes one for sale. Nice melamine unit. Very accurate out of the box with all the bells and whistles.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   pete811 | Nov 04, 2003 07:25am | #7

   hey Matt,   that was exactly the article i was looking for.  good thing it didn't have teeth cause it was right under my nose and i missed it .  thanks a lot.       pete

4. 
   PlaneWood | Nov 04, 2003 07:33am | #8

   What I did was to lay two oak slats into the miter slots and glue a piece of 1/2" plywood onto them.  The slats were 3/8" thick and slightly under 3/4" wide.  Then I ran the saw blade almost all the way through the plywood and used a carpenter square to set the back guide board.  That was glued on with screws from the bottom.  The back guide board was 4" tall and 2" thick so as not to be cut into by the blade.  I also put a similar board onto the front.  The slats on the bottom was waxed heavily for lubrication and to minimize expansion / contraction from humidity changes.

   I also later marked 45 degree lines on either side of the kerf to facilitate cutting frames.  Frame pieces can be held down with scrap boards screwed to the plywood.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood