Replies

1. 
   rslatm | Jan 26, 2004 08:44pm | #1

   Do a search on google.com and you will come with quite a lot of ideas.  Long as you are at it you might want to make a miter sled.  Saw a great idea in  a hobby mag of using an ironing board for an off-feed table. Pretty cheap and simple  idea really. better than most roller stands and lots cheaper.
2. 
   BertJ | Jan 26, 2004 10:49pm | #2

   Buzz,

   For my first version of a crosscut sled fence I used a 2X4 sculpted with the thicker part where the blade exits. After a kick-back incident splintered the 2X4 I made a new one out of hardwood--in my case, poplar. It's noticably heavier, but its strength justifies the weight, IMHO.

   BJ

3. 
   patternmaker | Jan 26, 2004 11:29pm | #3

   The fence on my principal crosscut sled is a piece of perfect plank material in mahagony.It is a cutoff from a patternmaking project. I fastened it to the base with a few dabs of glue. It measures 1-3/4 x3.in.by 36 in. long.I put a slight bevel on the inside edge where it joins the base.This bevel keeps the stray chip or piece of sawdust from keeping the work piece from it`s tight fit against the fence. A small piece of the same material placed at the back of the fence,straddling the path of the saw,keeps it 90 deg.to the base and protects the operator from the saws path thru the fence.

   I like to make my sled with two guides into the saws`miter slots. This at one time presented an alignment problem. Now I make the sled in two pieces. Fasten the strips to each half slightly farther from the edge than the distance from the saws`line of cut to the edge of the slots.Now run each half thru the saw to trim away the excess.

   Using a square fasten the fence to one half of the sleds base,put the other half into it`s proper slot and fasten it also.I want both of the fences to be exactly square to the saws` cut and the sleds` line of travel.Now you see why I use a little glue in this assembly. When the glue has set, turn the whole shebang over and reeinforce the joints with screws as you deem necessary. Now the sled will run easily from front to back with no noticeable side movement. Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

1. 
   Buzzsaw | Jan 26, 2004 11:53pm | #5

   thanks Pat.. Great stuff..Regards,

   Buzzsaw

1. 
   Robbie | Feb 27, 2004 11:42pm | #6

   BG:  Thanks for posting this info.  Very comprehensive instruction on building sleds.  I am in the process of building two of them - a large sled for crosscutting 24" wide ply for cabinets and a smaller 18" by 29" version for smaller stuff.  Am almost considering doing a smaller one for tiny work.

   It has been good help.  One problem I have had with high molecular weight plastic.  It bends easily and thus makes assembly a little trickier.  

   With hardwood runners, you can partially withdraw the runners from the slots and get a screw into the bottom without worrying that the wood has moved much.  If you do the same with the plastic, pretty good chance that they will have moved just enough and detroys the fit a bit. 

   I fixed that by stacking some pennies in the miter slot, slapping a little West epoxy on the runners and then placing the plywood on top of that.  When it hardened, I just slide the sled out and fastened further with 3/4 " screws.

1. 
   ASK | Feb 28, 2004 12:30am | #7

   Robbie,

   Spent about 2-1/2 hours trying to ge the plastic to line up and put screws into the shed. finally had to shave the side of the runners with a carbide tipped scraper to get it to run in the slots smoothly.

   If that haden't worked, i was going bach to the wood runners.

   ASK

1. 
   Robbie | Feb 28, 2004 01:09am | #8

   Gotcha on that one.  Dang, that is frustrating.  I failed twice and then finally tried the epoxy.  I only burnt an hour.  Next time, you might want to try the epoxy method described above that ultimately worked for me.  Of course, on the second smaller sled, I wussed out and used oak.  Should they get sloppy at some point, I'll paint on a little epoxy and sand till they fill out any gap.

   Best,

   Bob

2. 
   BG | Feb 28, 2004 01:33am | #9

   Robbie,

   It sounds as if you've got the problem solved.  However, when I did the plastic runner...I ran a dado on the underside of the sled and laid the runner in there.  As I'm sure your aware, as you tighten the screws into the plastic stuff it spreads.  The dado means I don't have to tighten too much...

3. 
   Robbie | Mar 05, 2004 06:31pm | #17

   BG: 

   Between the router table and the crosscut sleds, you can guess what is occupying my time from 8pm to 10pm nightly (kids go to bed at 8 and me at 10).  Dawn keeps asking me if I am building anything for the "collective benefit of the family."  Which in wife-speak means are you starting my new living room tables.  Soon, honey, soon.   Gotta get set up first.

   The sled plans from Highland Hardware that you shared have been good reference.  I am building two sleds - a full size (25x39) and a half size (18x29).   One of the best additions is the handles, I am making four or five for other jigs I may need them for in the future.  I was shaping a few of the "handsaw handles" that are in the Highland plans using the big DW625 to trim to pattern and the Bosch 1617 to roundover.    Not really a fair comparison given that I was working with 5/4 hard maple.  However, just turning the machines on and holding them in my hands, the Bosch was notibly more quiet, balanced and smooth running.  The DW will serve me much better in the table.

   Realized I have a very little bit of slop in the middle of  oak runners on one sled (the other was build with plastic).  Am thinking I will brush on a little West epoxy to build them up and then let the miter slot where it back down.  Good idea?

   Thanks again for the insights in both threads.

   Robbie 

4. 
   BG | Mar 05, 2004 07:09pm | #18

   Robbie,

   A couple of things...

   I'm too chicken to hold onto a piece of stock while shaping handles on the router table...I use a 12" wood clamp.  Also, I think many use an 80 grit in the drill press for shaping the cutouts....safer.

   With regard to the runners on the sled, I don't use two runner sleds anymore.  For most of my needs, the Incra 1000se gives me the accuracy and control I need.  After I spent the money for the Incra, I took another look at my cross cut sled and decided that needed more accuracy too...so, as mentioned before, I went with a Incra 24" miter on my sled....and an adjustable fense.  My sled only uses one miter...nice and firm(its adjustable) and periodically I test for 90 degrees using my TS fense and builders square.

5. 
   TomT226 | Feb 28, 2004 03:55pm | #10

   A less frustrating way is to screw the runner to your base, then square the fence(s) to the saw kerf......

   Work smarter, not harder.

6. 
   ASK | Mar 01, 2004 05:39pm | #12

   Tom,

   Nice.

   Thanks

   I'll try it on the next one.

   Can never have too many sleds

   ASK

4. 
   Buzzsaw | Jan 26, 2004 11:53pm | #4

   Thanks BG and I have seen this PDF. I like the handle idea and will incorporate it into my seld. Thanks very much...

   Regards,

   Buzzsaw

5. 
   beck4000 | Feb 28, 2004 06:15pm | #11

   Try here for a crosscut sled:

   http://www.grampasworkshop.net/cutoffjg.html

   actually join here too,it,s a great site!

   If nothing sticks to Teflon,how does Teflon Stick to metal. Huh

1. 
   ASK | Mar 01, 2004 05:40pm | #13

   Beck,

   I've been here

   I made this one.

   The adjustable fence really has advantages

   Thanks

   ASK

1. 
   beck4000 | Mar 02, 2004 02:29am | #14

   Ok,never seen the pic though!post it Please!If nothing sticks to Teflon,how does Teflon Stick to metal. Huh

1. 
   ASK | Mar 02, 2004 04:47pm | #15

   Beck,

   It's the adjustable fence sled you posted from Grandpa's site.

   That's the sled I made.  Works fine.

   ASK

1. 
   beck4000 | Mar 02, 2004 05:19pm | #16

   Awwwwwwwww gotcha,was kinda not thinking today(I never pay attention).

   If nothing sticks to Teflon,how does Teflon Stick to metal. Huh