Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Nov 24, 2004 07:01am | #1

   Jag,

   The best source of materials for this, and all kinds of other table saw jigs, fixtures and devices is "Tablesaw Methods of Work," edited and illustrated by Jim Richey, Taunton Press.

   In particular, the design on page 146 is superior to any other I have seen and is the way I make all my cross cut sleds (I have several for different needs). The method describes using ball bearings attached to the underside that ride in the table slots. But traditional runners can be used instead.

   The real key is the way the sled is cut in two halves, exactly matching it to the left and right blade-to-slot distances and creating an absolutely zero clearance blade kerf, before the front and back fences are added.

   It also helps to read all the other articles as the various approaches give a good overview of the needs of this device and ways to approach them.

   Rich

1. 
   AlanTurner | Nov 24, 2004 04:11pm | #4

   Rich,
   Would you mind checking to see where in FWW this idea you mentioned was origianally published? I have all the back issues, except for about 2 or so, and this sounds like a good idea.
   Thanks.Alan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

1. 
   Rich14 | Nov 24, 2004 06:20pm | #7

   s4s,The book doesn't reference the original FWW article. It does give credit to Wayne Daniel, Minden, Nev. for the method.Rich

2. 
   RickL | Nov 24, 2004 04:01pm | #2

   Woodshop Jigs & Fixtures by Sandor Nagyszalanczy is a great source of ideas.

   http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070202.asp

   Any jig is always subject to some future modification depending on ones needs. Plenty of other ideas online if you do a google search. I used a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate for one sled I made.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/24/2004 11:38 am ET by rick3ddd

3. 
   Buzzsaw | Nov 24, 2004 04:05pm | #3

   Jagman,

     I built this one about a year ago when I was just starting out.  I used birch plywood for the base and 2 by 4's for the fences.  I bought a piece of plexiglas for a shield and I used a piece of hardwood I found at Home Depot for the piece that the saw gets buried into.  I originally used maple runners but they siezed up when the weather got humid so I bought the metal runners which are great.  I would recommend going to Rockler for the metal runners and others have mentioned lycra runners.  It was pretty easy to build and I had found a videotape that I found that showed how to build it. I will post the name of it when I get home and look at it. The most important thing is to ensure that the bottom fence (the one that has the hardwood attached to it) is perpendicular to your saw blade.  You will find that a crosscut sled is the most used item in your shop. Good luck.

    

   Regards,

   Buzzsaw

   
4. 
   silverfox | Nov 24, 2004 05:36pm | #5

   Jagman....I have three or four hanging on my shop wall that allow me to cut any degree from 11 1/4 to 90 degrees, and I probably use them four or five hours per day.  They cost me nothing but time to build, and are usually made from scraps I would normally have tossed.  Write me at [email protected] and I'll send you some pictures.

   Phil

5. 
   Pondfish | Nov 24, 2004 05:59pm | #6

   JagMan,

   I recommend 1/2" MDF for the base -- Home Depot sells these in 2'x4' pieces for under $6.  For the sides you can use either thick stable hardwood, or laminate plywood until you have something 1.5" thick or thicker. 

   The most critical step is setting the back rail (the one the work is held against) exactly 90 degrees to the blade.  The way I do this (a tip I saw some time ago in FWW) is to:

   1) Pre-drill a screw hole for attaching the rail at the LEFT end of the rail and sled bottom. Predrill a hole at the RIGHT end, but have the pilot hole in the sled be "sloppy" to allow for some movement.  Both screws need to be countersunk 1/16"-1/8" in the bottom of the sled.

   2) Using slow-setting glue (titebond III with 8-10 minutes open time is good), run a bead over the back rail and sled bottom.

   3) Attach a screw through the pre-drilled hole at the LEFT and set the rail onto the sled.  Snug the crew in, do not tighten it too much at this point. Align as close to 90 degrees as you can. Attach a screw at the RIGHT (loose) end, again do not tighten.

   4) Turn on the saw and raise the bed through the sled bottom, and clear a kerf in the front half of the sled.

   5) Place a scrap piece of hardwood, approximately 1-2" wide and 1/2" thick on the sled.  This piece needs to have parallel edges.  Cut through the piece, then flip over one of the cut sides.  If the rail is at 90 degrees, the pieces will mate perectly.  If the rail is out of alignment, the pieces will have a gap at one side.  It will show you what way to adjust the back rail to get it perfect. 

   6) Adjust and retest as needed.  When the rail is set correctly, tighten the screws and let the glue dry. 

   I've attached a picture of one sled I've made.  I used screw inserts to allow me to attach clamps and guides to the sled.  The picture shows an unfinished sled--I always give my jugs a couple coats of shellac to seal them (and they slide easily over the TS, too).

   Good luck.  Plan on making at least a couple sleds (90, 45, dado set, etc.) , so you'll get plenty of practice.

   Paul