Replies

1. 
   Buster2000 | May 04, 2006 09:07pm | #1

   Do I move my fence back or forward?

   Your question is a bit confusing...  Usually when I squaring up a crosscut sled I attach the fence securly on one side and on the other I use a slightly elongated hole in the base to allow for fine adjustments.  After the fence is adjusted I secure it fully.

   So you see, to give an answer of front or requires us to know the fence is attached, as well as which board was turned over.

    

2. 
   pita | May 04, 2006 10:33pm | #2

   I am going to assume the blade is // to the miter slots, if they are not you  you need to do so.

   With your square draw another line (1/8" from the edge) on the board just as you did for the first cut.  Now place the board back on the sled and push it to a point where you can see if the new line is // to the blade.  For this test, raise the blade to its highest point increases the surface area to deturmine if the line are //.  The direction in whcih you move the test board is the new referance line to set the fence to.  I would suggest that your test board is 1"X8"X24"

3. 
   John_D | May 04, 2006 11:10pm | #3

   It's easy to find out.  Mark the old position, try a new one.  See if it's worse or better, and by how much.  It doesn't take long to dial it in well.

   Have fun! :)

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
4. 
   mike4244 | May 05, 2006 04:57am | #4

   Forget the engineers square for squaring up your sled,unless the sled is a very narrow one. These squares are too small for what your trying to accomplish.

   First thing ,after cutting the panel to size, screw a back piece of 5/4x 4". Make sure any screws or fasteners you use are nowhere near the blade.Use 5/4 x6" that is flatand straight.You could use a good grade of plywood mdf  for the fence. Do not install this piece yet.

   If using wood for the runners, only use a close grained hardwood like maple,cherry etc.Place runner or runners if you use both tee slots,make sure they slide but are not sloppy.Assuming the slots are standard,the runners are sawed 5/16" thick,3/4" wide.The 3/4" width will probably have to be sanded a bit to ease sliding.Place thin shims in the tee slot ,formica will do. Place the runners on top even with the front of the saw table.The formica shims temporarily raise the runners even with thetop.

   Place sled on the table , mark centerline of tee slots on this. Remove the sled ,bore countersunk holes to hold the runners.Slightly counter sink the opposite side,this removes the tearout and gives a bit of room for dust from runner to collect.This might be hard to understand at first glance. Picture this, you bored a hole in particle board,then tried to screw it to something else.The particle board will never sit tight,the dust from the exit hole prevents this. Same principle, for attaching anything that needs precision.

   You only need three or four short screws from the top down,when satisfied that sled runs true and easily, brad nail from underside,4" centers.

   Now you can install the front fence.Begin by screwing only one end of the fence from underneath. Lower the blade below the insert. Install sled.Then with saw running ,raise the blade  to about two inches high.Make your cut to within 6" of the front of panel.

   Turn saw off, square off saw slot in panel bottom.Clamp free end of fence in position.Attach a metal angle to the fence face and the sled table. If the metal angle is slotted, it helps a lot . The slot is for fine adjustment.I have used a Simpson thin gauge angle for this,about 35 cents at a lumber yard. When you think you have it right, make a test cut, move free end in or out til satisfied . Turn sled over, install screws,remove simpson connector.Youre done,save connector,wood moves you know.Over a period of years,expect to realign front fence,fiddle a bit with runners,etc.

   mike

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/4/2006 10:01 pm ET by mike4244