What is best way to join crossgrain joint approximately 10 inches long.
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Replies
What is it for... that will determine the "best" of the answer.
Many to choose from.
Can you show a photo or sketch of what you want to do?
If you are referring to a long grain to end grain situation as you might see in a typical cabinet or table (ie, stretcher to leg) a mortise and tenon would be best. But, with your rail being 10" wide, expansion/contraction will be a concern. So, only glue the center 3" or so.
I am making a Texas flag from wood. The blue section will be vertical grain walnut, the red will be horizontal grain mahogany, and the white will be horizontal grain maple. The star will be inlaid maple. It will be 19" high and 20" wide.
This will hang on the wall.
You will have expansion/contraction issues to consider and figure out how to accommodate. I suggest that the best way to do this would be to use either mdf or plywood as a substrate and make the design using veneers.
An option: glue the red and white together and then use a sliding dovetail with the blue. Pin and glue it between Sweetwater and San Angelo. Expect Vernon, Laredo, and El Paso move with the seasons.
I was thinking along these lines as well though I was going to suggest tongue and groove rather than sliding dovetail as much easier by hand tools to get a tongue and groove based on tools I have.
Glue the white and red sections together. Then make mortise and tenons near where they join together - one in each section - with the mortises closely matching the size of the tenons. These will be glued/maybe pinned. Then make another pair of tenons along the same side but closer to edges. Make those mortises wider to allow for wood movement and don't glue them into place.
(This can also be done extremely easily with Festool Dominoes if you have that tool or any other means of making loose tenons)
+1 for using veneer.
As others have said, this is a wood movement issue.
@ral3wood has the best answer for the design you suggest. It is the only way to make this work well in solid wood as envisaged.
What their method does is move all the wood movement to the edges, so you will find there will be slight discrepancies at the top and bottom where the immovable long grain meets the keen to move end grain as the seasons change.
All that having been said, from what I can see of Texas climate, its DRY. ALL THE TIME. Provided the item is intended for use in Texas AND it has been allowed to acclimate, wood movement is a trivial concern.
If it were my project though, I would slice 1/8" veneers and use those on plywood. easy and much stronger than any other option.
I would use veneer and plywood.
If you insist on using solid wood, look up "breadboard ends." The blue section is essentially an oddly shaped breadboard end. Construct it as such.
I agree that using veneered MDF or plywood will take care of the wood movement issues, but how would you guys deal with the irregular edges of the state profile? Nothing simple comes to mind for me...
I presume you mean because the substrate will show? I'd just paint it. No need for anything fancy as it will disappear into the background.
In joining two solid hickory desk tops meeting at 90 degrees I have used these countertop connectors and tree loose tenons for alignment. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/hardware/fasteners/connectors/71046-zipbolt-countertop-connectors?item=00S1220&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_campaign=USA%7CPLA%7CPMax%7CHardware%7CLowPriceTier&gclid=CjwKCAjwg-GjBhBnEiwAMUvNWwCzNkzVN15UT2iubSEWjdWbgusize214DAUhMb8j1brIN6Jf0wgXhoCSlsQAvD_BwE
Thanks for your suggestions. I have made a template and went to quite a bit of work to make the borders as accurate as possible so I am leaning toward using solid wood so the edges will match the face.
If I had a state/province to reproduce, I would choose Saskatchewan.
SO lazy.
I'd go with Colorado or Wyoming. The OP could consider moving, maybe.
You think you've got it bad, I live in New Zealand. Only way that's getting cut out is on a CNC.
Well, here it is. I used a breadboard joint, glued in the center and pegged toward the ends with elongated holes in tenon. Very happy with the result.
Nicely done. A good choice of joinery. Thanks for showing us.
Sweet!
Very good! It is so nice to see someone take good advice aboard, use it properly and post the result. It seems quite a rare event. Thank you.