Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | May 14, 2006 01:21am | #1

   Like this

   
1. 
   illumicon1 | May 14, 2006 02:35am | #2

   thanks Dave for info, what about mitre angles?

1. 
   Dave45 | May 14, 2006 06:35am | #3

   The angles depend on the spring angles of the crown.  Home Depot sells a book that describes crown installation in almost excruciating detail.  It also has pages of tables for setting the correct angles for almost any situation.

   From my own experience, I would suggest making up several "test" pieces before you actually start.  That picture I posted was a 12' ceiling and I was sure glad I had done the other rooms first...........climbing up and down a ladder isn't as much fun as it used to be - lol.

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 14, 2006 07:09am | #4

   The slickest solution requires a little drywall work.  You buy and install these things -- https://www.squarzit.com/product/   (There are competitors out there, too.)

   They convert the bullnose corner to a square corner right near the ceiling, and/or near the floor.   You get the nice feel and look of the bullnose where it is near your hand and your eye.   And you get baseboard and crown moulding which fits!

    

    

1. 
   Dave45 | May 14, 2006 04:55pm | #5

   Wow, that's a neat idea.  Not only would it simplify crown, base and chair rail jobs, it adds a nice wall detail at the joints.

2. 
   TimNott | May 14, 2006 06:41pm | #7

   Neat. Sort of the inverse of the 'can't be arsed' stopped router chamfer

3. 
   JMartinsky | May 14, 2006 06:10pm | #6

   Hi Illumicon,
   I like the "square z it" solution. You are right that it would add a nice detail and it would look much nicer as well, IMHO.

   John

4. 
   KeithNewton | May 15, 2006 04:41am | #8

   If you need something to work for larger radii, then another alternative would be to put ####block on the face-plate of the lathe the thickness should match the V height of the crown, and turn it. 4 for 1