Hey Guys, I ran into this problem installing this crown around cabinets I built for a customer. The cabs dive into a wall before the wall goes into a 45 degree bay window area. That piece I have on the inside of the miter is just tacked on so I could get a better perspective on it.
Please tell me how to do this miter intersection-sorry the picture is so big, can someone resize it for me
Thank you, LOU C
Edited 12/23/2006 5:59 am ET by loucarabasi
Replies
It doesn't that hard -- you have a 45 degree outside corner followed by a 45 degree inside corner. You need to set your miters to 22.5 degrees and cut accordingly (though I would check to see that it is 45 degrees, and not 44 or 46...)
Your picture has been resized and attached (foo). I also added a quick sketch of this part of your run showing the cuts (bar).
Good luck cutting those short pieces--be sure to cut them off a large piece, and not try to hold them!
From what I can see you are on the right track it just looks like the little transition piece got pulled into the blade. Make a zero clearance fixture to cut the piece and cut in position (upside down and backwards). The fixture is a wide flat board with a fence attached to the back. The current one I have is made from a 1x6 fence and a 1x10 table and is about 30" long. Line up one end with the outside edge of the fence and cut an inside miter. Slide it to the other side of the fence and cut an inside miter. Center the fixture on the saw and put marks that represent the edges of the fence on both sides to help lining it up with the blade. The fixture is clamped to the saw with spring clamps. In your situation you need to cut kerfs in both dirctions for 22.5 corners too. Position the crown upside down in the jig and mark a line across the fence at the point where the flat behind the cove sits flat against the fence. You then put a continuous stop on the table made from a 1x ripping that holds the crown in that position.
For that corner cut an inside miter at 45 degrees as you have done. Slide the fixture onto the saw. Line up the blade with the kerf that cuts the 22.5 outside corner for that piece and put the crown in the fixture. Make the cut slowly letting the blade do the cutting and not the force of you pushing it down. After finishing the cut leave the blade down until the saw has stopped spinning. Install the piece using some type of fast setting glue or a micro pinner vs. a brad nailer.
The whole process is easier than it sounds. The zero clearence fixtures are great for cutting any kind of small self returns. I also use the for cutting bolection mouldings. Just add a sacrificial block that holds the stock in positon up against the fence. They have a short life span so don't make it too nice. When the kerfs get a little sloppy from cuts that weren't lined up perfectly just make another.
Hope this helps.
Justin
Guys, look at the picture closer. The small piece I tacked needs to have the outside miter cut at 22 1/2 degrees, becouse the inside is a 45degree it makes the 22 1/2 end up shorter becouse the inside miter encroaches on the outside when cut. I know about the zero clearance rig, I use it all the time and it works great. this is very puzzling. look at it closer, I need to finish tuesday and get PAID!!!!
Thanx guys, Lou
I'm thinking your first cut is 22.5 degrees outside with a 11.25 degree inside final trim cut. Use the infil piece to size this. I would try on an off cut first.
Edited 12/23/2006 7:21 pm ET by USAnigel
That inside cut is 45 degrees and the out is 22 1/2 degrees. the outside angle will hit the top of the inside 45 degree angle.
OK, the picture was misleading at first glance. I see the problem, and a few options. I've attached your photo with some of the pieces labelled so you can follow better my comments. (e.g., The crown is built up using a piece of what looks like base molding upside down, so I will call this the base piece.)
One option obviously is to make several unusual cuts to blend the bay crown into the pilaster crown, with the small piece as a filler. It will work but could end up looking like a mistake.
Another is to replace the small slice and part of the pilaster crown with a plinth block that fills the trouble side and gives you something to tie the bay crown into. However, to work the plinth might need to be almost as wide as the pilaster.
A variation would be to extend the bay base into the pilaster base, joing the bay crown with the pilaster crown (outside 45 degree corner) and fill the void behind the base either with a triangular piece of wood, or plaster (I'd do wood). This would eliminate the short trouble section, but might look a little odd. You could vary this to extend only the flat part of the base, leave the profile to follow the wall, and add in a small triangular piece behind the flat base.
Not being able to tell how big the trouble section piece is (looks like 3/4" or less?), I can't tell if leaving the pilaster piece butted to the wall and some creative coping could marry in the bay crown to the pilaster crown. The ogee might be mateable, but the cove underneath would be tricky. This is a long shot (I think).
You could also nail the body of the architect up as a warning to others to plan the finish work better, and cover the troublesome area at the same time. that one gets my vote.
Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
You could run the left piece of crown into the top of the palister and insert a triangle in the space left underneath.
I would follow the wall in this instance even with the odd small piece in there.
My previous angles were the cut angle.
Lou
I ran into a similar problem last year, with a 1 1/2" space turning a 45° corner. I tried coping pieces for half a day, before I went back to the shop and made a plinth block for the corner. 1 1/2" around each end (crown moulding section only) for balance. I carved a small fan leaf in each face (same as what was on the hood vent) to tie it all in, and the customer thought it was terrific. Otherwise, you're gonna be fussing with small pieces for eons trying to get the miter to line up.
Jeff
Jeff, to make things more diffficult. This is the last piece going in, so I have to deal with sizing both ends. And to make things worse I have to scribe the piece to the ceiling.
thanx, Lou
Lou
With a plinth block, none of these things should be an obstacle. Just a suggestion. Back cut the top to make the scribe easier.
Merry Christmas
Jeff
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