Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Mar 20, 2006 06:23pm | #1

   If it's not finished already, you can re-rip it along the glue lines, re-joint and re-glue. Should remove the cupping, and the piece will likely be more stable than it was the first time around to boot!

   Mike Hennessy
   Pitsburgh, PA

1. 
   aew | Mar 20, 2006 06:35pm | #2

   Thanks Mike. The problem is that the table top is an oval and trying to rip it cleanly is going to take some effort to build a jig to hold it straight to cut the original glue lines. You are probably right that this is the best way to handle it. I may give it a try. The worst thing that can happen is that I have to make a new one.

2. 
   user-126535 | Mar 20, 2006 11:21pm | #3

   I think Mike has the right idea. Rip, joint and reglue... As for the jig....it can be made very simply by....if you have a 4'-6' or 8'ft X 2'ft wide pc. of 3/4" or 1"ply,  you can install a couple of hold downs spaced 2' to 4'ft apart (depending on size of table top etc.) and run the straight edge along your table saw fence to rip top straight.  We use this all the time since we purchase most of our lumber rough and have to straight line rip it.  If you're making one to have around for any future work of this nature, it's better to glue and stack 2 or 3 pcs  of 3/4" ply then joint edge that runs along fence. One other thing you might try is to do what you've already tried but put a strip of wood the length of your table top by 3" + - and place this on the under side of cup and clamp both edges down slightly for 2 hours? 4 hours? 24 hours? and see if this helps to bring it back.... BUT this more than likely will move on you again in the future and especially in humid conditions. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask away.....Good Luck

   Steve

3. 
   forestgirl | Mar 22, 2006 03:33am | #4

   You only did half of the "procedure."  I have successfully flattened boards (not a tabletop though) by placing on newspaper on grass in not-too-hot sun.  A barely-damp towel (with newspaper) and a sun lamp will do the same trick inside.  [Edit: concave side down, for future readers]

   Let it sit, check every hour or so, when it's flat take away the damp and the warm, put it where it gets all-round circulation.  If (when, probably) it re-cups, do it again but let it go just a tad past flat (overcompensate), remove from treatment, watch carefully.  It might take 3 or 4 cycles to get it to settle at "flat."  Then, get a finish on it, quick!  :-)

   The 'not too hot sun' is easy to do here in the Northwest.  If there's a chance to make it flat, that'll do it.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

   
   

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   Edited 3/22/2006 1:58 am by forestgirl

1. 
   aew | Mar 22, 2006 02:49pm | #5

   Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I will try the flattening process on the grass when the snow is gone in NH. There is no problem with temperatures from the sun here either. The calendar may say spring but it never really occurs until May up here.

4. 
   joinerswork | Mar 23, 2006 08:29pm | #6

   AEW,

   While I understand your reluctance to re-engineer your table, there is a reason all the old tripod tables have battens under their tops.

   Either a relatively thin (3/4") and wide (3") batten that tapers to 3/8" on its ends, or a pair of 3/4" X 1 1/2" battens on edge, either tapered, or with an attractive ogee scroll on each end will hold the top from warping, without being obtrusive.  If screwed in place with allowance for seasonal movement, that's all you need do.  No worries about whether the warp will come back, no need to hurry and put a finish on.  On a top as thin as yours, screw length will be a little more of an issue, but not a big deal.

   Good luck,

   Ray Pine