Replies

1. 
   notDusty | Jul 14, 2004 04:58pm | #1

             Garry ,         It sounds like you are finishing them before they are installed if that is the case , did you finish the back and bottoms also ? That would be my first thought. If only one surface gets finished then any moisture or seasonal movement can only escape from the un finished sides , this may be whats up.                 

    

1. 
   Garry | Jul 14, 2004 06:02pm | #2

   You are correct about finishing befor installation but I did use sanding sealer on the back side which I thought would have sealed then well enough.

   Thanks

   Garry

1. 
   jackplane | Jul 14, 2004 08:19pm | #3

   Clamp and fasten them to the stringers. This will straighten them, then apply the final coat.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 15, 2004 08:33pm | #5

   Garry, sanding sealer does little to slow up the tranfer of water vapor. It is about one step better than an oil.

   As others have said, both sides should be finish the same if you are finishing them before installation.

   The stairs in my new house were specified as quartersawn.Howie.........

3. 
   notDusty | Jul 16, 2004 07:09am | #6

             Garry ,

       This is just a possibility of saving and flattening your parts but , try cutting saw kerfs in the back sides like on some deck boards and the same way  many moldings are relieved.             good luck           dusty

          If any of the parts ends are exposed you may have to stop the kerfs.

   Edited 7/16/2004 1:20 am ET by dusty

1. 
   jackplane | Jul 16, 2004 03:30pm | #7

   dusty,

   I have to disagree. Cutting a back kerf to relieve cupping on stair treads is a bad idea. This only weakens stock that is chosen for its strength in the first place.

1. 
   Garry | Jul 16, 2004 03:37pm | #8

   Thanks everyone. I will try applying the finish on the backside first, the go from there.

2. 
   notDusty | Jul 16, 2004 05:28pm | #9

               JACKPLANE ,       You have a very good point there. The actual thickness of the treads and the depth of the kerfs should be considered, however the risers would be less vulnerable, don't you think? On a 1 1/4 " tread a 1/4" kerf would do little to weaken , especially if the tread is set on top of a solid base, as is common on interior stairwells I have seen , granted stairs that are fastened directly to the stringers are different like an exterior stairwell.

3. 
   jackplane | Jul 16, 2004 06:40pm | #10

   Yes, the risers don't matter as much and are less vulnerable. All the  stairs I've made,interior or exterior will have stringers and need solid treads for strength, assuming the structure is wood not steel.

      So the more kerfs cut through 5/4 oak, at 1/4", the more the treads resemble 4/4 and defeat the strength needed for stairs when heavy loads may be encountered. Of course, a major factor here is the span between stringers, which was never stated. But a staircase is one structure where you never want it to fail.

   Edited 7/16/2004 11:43 am ET by JACKPLANE

2. 
   Crunk | Jul 15, 2004 01:09am | #4

   Once upon a time stair treads were spec'd for quarter or riftsawn wood because severe cupping and other movement could present safety issues. 

   Pull the treads and finish the back sides of the boards.  MAYBE this will salvage an unpleasant situation.

3. 
   TiMn8er | May 20, 2013 03:44pm | #11

   simular issue here
   How did you make out. I'm currently doing a retread job. I have left the existing wood in place and just cut the nose of exiting boards. i had to make a template and have a local shop mill me 3 pie shape treads to make a curve on the landing. These 3 treads are made of solid oak and the middle tread has cupped to a point its 5/8th of at the end. cutting kerfs was my first thought but just wanted to get another opinion.

   cheers