Hi I jointed and planed some 8/4 rift sawn white oak down to 3/4″. The board is only 4′ long by 2.5″. It cupped quickly. I’m guessing moisture. A couple of questions. Do you guys check moisture regularly on your wood? Can you recommend a decent meter? How long do you allow to acclimate in your shop before you dimension the wood?
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Replies
I try to buy wood 3 months or more in advance of use.
Your problem was caused by doing too much machining in one go.
A board of that size needs to be done in three stages.
1. Re-saw in half. Leave to rest and acclimate at least a couple of days, preferably a week.
2. Machine close to final dimension leave 1mm or so for final finishing. Leave overnight.
3. Machine to final dimension. Keep in a polythene bag until glued up.
Thanks for the comments. It's a learning curve for me. I don't get a lot of time for woodworking, so when I do, I try to do as much as possible. Less is more :)
So on your cupping issue, it is mostly due to unequal drying, the less dry being convex side, most dry the concave. This can be caused by 1) milling unequal amounts off each side, 2) the way you stored the board (if you lay a freshly milled board on a table it’s a recipe for cupping because only the top side looses moisture), 3) internal stresses in the board (unlikely in aboard this narrow).
I would comment that you wasted a lot of wood and did a lot of unnecessary wear and tear on your jointer blades. Milling a board down that much should be done in steps, and equal amounts off each side
So +1 on re-sawing. A bandsaw is an integral piece of machinery. If you plan on doing more & don’t have one, you need one. That said, this board could have been resawn on a table saw.
The moisture content can vary within a thick board, this is why re-sawing has to handled as RobSS described.
Future reference, I would add to his comments that I like to clamp the resawn boards between 2 heavy timbers with stickers in between. This “holds” the boards flat while the moisture and stress issues works themselves out.
A big +1 on plastic bags, or keeping the lumber in a climate controlled room.
I will echo everything said above from buying wood well in advance to you wasted a lot of expensive wood by planing 8/4" down to 3/4" to milling in stages with week or more pauses in between to allow wood to achieve equilibrium again.
I definitely concurs with the previous comments. As to a moisture meter; I use a Wagner pinless. Some will say a moisture meter is not a necessary item and they may be correct. However, I find it a useful tool. Beware, as with many tools you get what you pay for.
I too have a Wagner pinless, the Orion 930 dual-depth. They cost $330-380. And I agree, you get what you pay for.
You could actually resaw a board that narrow on the tablesaw, if you dont have a bandsaw or have a crappy one like mine.
When thicknessing I flip the board over to try and take the same amount from each side in order to balance drying.
I’m wondering if you removed material from the same face, so when done the moisture was unbalanced between faces.
Mike
all of my hardwood lumber comes off of my property, this is how I dry and mill the lumber: after the sawyer is done the lumber is stickered and covered. let it dry for 24mths.I have lumber cut at 2" thick and 8" wide. I bring the lumber in my shop (controlled humidity and heat),check the moisture with my lignomat meter( not the best but it is consistent, around $120) sticker the pile and put a fan on the side, and move the fan every week. after 3-4mths. I then joint and plane/resaw to rough dim.(re-sticker) let it sit for at least 2 wks. check moisture again, cut to final size. never had a problem with cupping,warping. I lumber white and red oak, cherry,maple,pine. I agree with other comments about milling to much at one time. do a little at a time and Wait! sounds like you could use a bandsaw. I hope this helps, any comments from others air drying their lumber let us know!
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