Replies

1. 
   mwenz | Jul 15, 2007 06:40pm | #1

   How deep is the cabinet and what species and grain orientation of wood is being used?

   If the cabinet isn't more than a foot deep and of a wood which has little/minimal expansion, the dowels will work fine. My last display was about 13" deep, QS Bubinga and used 21 dowels to attach the top and and equal amount to attach the bottom to frame and panel sides (glass all four sides).

   Most times, though, I use custom "tabs" on the sides which allow for expansion. These tabs are let into the surface of the top/bottom so they are flush and are screwed into the bottoms of the side rails. They are almost the width of the rails and are wide enough to project into the cabinet enough (about 3/8") to allow the screws to attach the rails to the top/bottom. I usually blue or otherwise patinate the metal to more readily blend in.

   The tabs, or plates, that are at the outer corners have slightly elongated holes. The tab in the center does not. fwiw, I also do not use screws. I drill and tap the wood for machine screws cut to length. I have found when using small screws in hard woods I have a tendency to break the little buggers. If I used softer woods, I would use wood screws. Chase the hole with a steel screw and then follow with the install screw at assembly.

   I doubt I have any easily locatable pictures of the above, but can make a quick drawing if needed.

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   finkelstein | Jul 17, 2007 03:30am | #2

   Thanks, Mike.  The cabinet is going to be mahogany (plain sawn) and about 18" deep.  As for the tabs, I've seen some little figure 8 plates that I could use, but you do have to use screws or machine screws (I really like that idea, by the way), which I'd prefer not to use.  Are these similar to what you are referring to?  From the bottom, I suppose I could just use screws with elongated holes into the sides, but I can't really do that on the top.  Would you be willing to put together a quick sketch for me?  I'd appreciate it.

   Thanks again,

   Jeff

1. 
   mwenz | Jul 17, 2007 06:15pm | #3

   Hi Jeff--I do love Mahogany!The figure 8s are the same in principle, just tacky where they can be seen. What I make are really strips of metal, often with a slight scallop which shows on the inside faces of the cabinet.I'll sketch something up tonight if I cannot find a detailed photo.Take care, Mike

2. 
   mbholden | Jul 17, 2007 09:35pm | #4

   finkelstein,

   The proper joint is a display cabinet joint in which 3 pieces come together at right angles and are mitered with interlocking mortice and tenons.

   Difficult to describe, but the joint is shown in a number of older woodworking books, and Bill Hylton in "Illustrated Cabinetmaking" calls it a "mitered showcase joint"; Yeung Chan in "Classic Joints with Power Tools" calls it a "three-way miter" and offers step by step instructions.

   Yeung Chan refers to wood movement thus: "Because of its clever design, wood movement will occur at an equal rate and in the same direction, helping keep the joint strong for a long time."

   Check your local library for either of these books.

   Mike

1. 
   finkelstein | Jul 22, 2007 02:34am | #5

   Thank you both!  I've ordered this book (library in small town Texas is a little lacking here) and will definitely review this joint before continuing.

   Thanks again,

   Jeff