Replies

1. 
   James_Dolpin | Jun 26, 2000 10:03pm | #1

   *
   Matt,

   Two personal stories and you decide. I have a cherry surround mantel similar to what you describe. The area immediately above the fireplace gets very hot to the touch. The finish is lacquer. No problems.

   I have a cherry coffee table 5-6 feet in front of the fireplace. The finish is shellac. The first winter the heat from the fireplace totally ruined the side facing the fireplace. The shellac blistered almost like a fried pork skin. It was so crackly that a scraper removed all the finish.

   After refinishing that side, I place a blanket over the side when the fireplace is used. No more problems.

   It's your call. As info, Scott Phillips had a show where he finished a mantle with shellac. If I recall correctly Jeff Jewitt was the quest. You might check with him.

1. 
   Matt_Chafin | Jun 26, 2000 10:31pm | #2

   *James,Thanks for relaying your experience. I can't risk this thing melting down. Based on another string I read, I posted the question on Mr. Jewitt's forum, I'll have to use some sort of varnish approach but I don't want to lose that effect that the grain has with the shellac, there has to be some happy medium.Matt

1. 
   Paul_Hebert | Jun 29, 2000 06:46pm | #3

   *Matt, James or others - could you please share more info on the aniline dye to use for this application (brand, source, if you need to mix it yourself, what proportions, etc). I'm a self-taught amateur wood worker and have never used dye in finishing my projects, but have read the reference articles on maple and walnut.I recently ordered some cherry crotch veneer that I'll be using in panels for a sleigh bed for my house. I really want the figure to pop and am not sure of the best way to do this. If the aniline dye method is very complex and I can get a similar result more easily, I'm open to suggestions. Also, if there are any things to watch out for since I'm using veneer, I'd appreciate the heads up. Thanks, Paul

1. 
   James_Dolpin | Jun 30, 2000 01:47am | #4

   *Paul,You will probably get better results if you start a new topic rather than post under an existing subject.Cherry is bad to splotch. Figured cherry more so. In any given situation what you use depends on the wood and what you want. Walnut, linseed oil works. Tiger maple, analine dye works. With cherry you would normally use a gel stain because of splotching.You can wipe with mineral spirits to get an idea of what will happen and go from there. In my opinion, cherry is best left to turn that beautiful salmon color on its on. Do avoid using sapwood. It does not stain or age well.Arti analine dye is available mail-order from Highland Hardware in Atlanta. I've tried most brands. That is my favorite. But you do need scales and experiments to become proficient in its use. Analine dye that is. The best way is to approach finishing in total. There is no one best way to finish everything.

1. 
   Matt_Chafin | Jun 30, 2000 05:27pm | #5

   *Paul;I am no finishing expert,(i.e. my original post) but you will find good articles in FW and others that describe the problems associated with cherry "blotching". Blotching is when some areas of the grain will take on more stain or color than other areas. Some believe it to be unsightly and work to reduce it. Articles I've read indicate to either use a washcoat owash coatd shellac to prevent subsequent staining from penetrating too deep. Others suggest "gel stains" which do not absorb as readily as liquid stains.I have some exp w/ water soluable dyes, there are good articles out there on the subject. Its a fine powder, which you mix yourself in warm water to make a batch. Get it at a woodworking store or wood working any on-line specialty place. You'll need a way to weigh the powder b/c the powder to water ratio is dependent on weight not volume. I use scales intended for reloading bullets. I mix small batches of about 3-4 different colors I have and then mix them together or dillute the mixtures to get the results I want on scraps. I use plactic cups, after a while you'll look like a lab tech with all the cups of samples and testing, be sure to label the mixtures so you remember the receipes. After the dye dries it won't look very impressive, put a topcoat of choice on it before you evaluate if it is what you want. Sounds like alot of trouble, there are certainly other easier methods; but the dyes are user-friendly and alow you to adjust color any way you want. Since its water-based, it will cause the grain to raise (swell) so I always sponge the wood w/water the day before, let dry and then lightly sand smooth before applying dye.