Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 25, 2003 01:57am | #1

   Yup, that will work.    Two suggestions:

   A lower-cost alternative to bending ply is what my lumberyard calls "wiggle wood".   It is particle board sheet with lots of kerfs on one side.  

   If you can, use commercially-veneered plywood rather than doing your own veneering.  You can get 1/4" or 1/8" ply that will bend over reasonable curves.   If you must do your own veneering, do that to a thin sheet of plywood and then glue the sheet on to the curved wall.   Getting even pressure on veneer on a big curved structure is darn difficult, while veneering a flat sheet of plywood is much easier.

1. 
   IronDog | May 25, 2003 05:31am | #2

   Hi Jamie,

   I thought I'd heard of Wiggle Wood but I thought that was bending ply that could form compound shapes.

   A good point about veneering when the panel is flat and then applying the panel. Luckily the radius is pretty easy so shouldn't be too difficult.

   Even sections of this is too big for a veneer bag.

   Thanks!

   I.D.

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 25, 2003 06:17am | #3

   Iron Dog  --

       I'm not sure that everybody means the same thing when they say "wiggle wood".  Some folks may mean what I know as bending plywood, and some others may mean this pre-kerfed particle board.  I've also heard the pre-kerfed particle board called "wacky wood."  

      About how big is this curved panel, and what is the radius of curvature?   Or maybe what are the radii of curvature?

           Jamie

1. 
   IronDog | May 25, 2003 06:40am | #4

   Hey Jamie,

   This is a big boy.

   Radius is 10' and is a semi-circle so the diameter then is 20' !

   Luckily the interior side cabinetry is uncurved so no big worries there.

   Really it's just making a 4' tall wall in sections.

   I think one of the key things is when I'm making the interior plywood form that I don't skimp on the number of "studs".

   I'm thinking of this in the same way one would build a curved sheetrock wall with curved plates and then the studs follow the plates curve. The number of the "studs" will have a big effect on what telegraphs through the initial layer of plywood.

   Tom

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 25, 2003 07:15am | #5

   I.D. --

      Looks like an interesting job.   Modularizing the wall into four-foot sections seems real smart to me.   You get to build units that are small enough that you can handle them in the shop, transport them easily, and get them into the customer's building without trouble.   You've probably already figured out some way to tastefully cover the seams between the modules.

      Building the wall like curved stud wall will work.  Me, I'd probably turn it the other way and build it like an airplane wing.   I'd make several curved ribs.   They're just like your curved plates, except that I'd put them on, say, 1 foot centers up the wall.   I'd cut them out of plywood.  I'd make one template and use it to lay out all the rest of the ribs.   I'd connect the ribs together with a vertical "stud" at each end.  The studs would also be where I screw the modules together at installation time.    The advantage of the ribs over your original idea is that the ribs follow your curve exactly, and there's less tendency for the structural bits to telegraph through to the front.

     After I got the frames built, I'd glue the front panels on.  I'd use 1/4" plywood.   Apply glue to all the ribs.  Then clamp one edge of the panel to one of the studs at the end, with a caul to ensure that the plywood panel gets good contact to the stud along all its length.  Then bend the plywood over the frame and clamp it at the other end, again with a caul.  The bend in the plywood will assure good glue contact between the plywood and the ribs.   After the glue drys, trim the ply to fit and you're complete.

2. 
   IronDog | May 25, 2003 07:21am | #6

   Jamie,

   I like the airplane wing idea. Makes a lot of sense for

   something like this. Much stronger cleaner structure for

   the laminations.

   I have enjoyed our dialogue today and thank you for

   your thoughtful consideration!

   Hitting the sack now.....zzzzzzz....

   tom

3. 
   wrick2003 | May 26, 2003 07:17pm | #7

   you can also get a flexible steel track that they use in steel stud wall construction.

   it is used for top and bottom plates of radius partitions. it would save time in cutting all of those plates out of plywood.

   good luck     rg

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 26, 2003 09:00pm | #8

   I don't think that would work in this job.   The track is flexible when you get it, and you set its curve by fastening it to the floor or the ceiling.   This job is a half-wall that is only three or four feet tall.   There is nothing to fasten the top to, to establish the curve of the upper "plate".

5. 
   ian | May 30, 2003 03:45pm | #9

   If the wall is curved, the top plate of the wall follows the same curve.  All reception desks I've seen with a "wall" or room divider function have a narrow shelf on the top - receptionists use it for flowers, couriers as a place to rest small parcels and letters.  This shelf should be more than rigid enough to support the top track - the bottom track could be mounted on a similar plate.