Replies

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 30, 2010 02:24pm | #1

   with a router and a guide fence -

   SA

2. 
   RalphBarker | Jan 30, 2010 03:10pm | #2

   "i understand how to make a curved blank...just don't see how to put the profile in."

   Obviously, the usual single profile bits that are intended for single-pass complex profiles on straight stock won't work on the curve. So, I'd suggest thinking in terms of using multiple bits that will work on the curve (e.g. v-groove, round nose, point-cutting round-over, etc.), used in succession with an edge guide to make an interesting profile, perhaps along with some hand work.

   Since your doorway sounds like it is elliptical, rather than having a single radius, your challenge will be in following the shape of the ellipse. Cutting a template to match the opening to use as a guide edge may be the solution.

1. 
   stevegiamundo | Feb 02, 2010 08:13pm | #3

   Still don't "see" how a guide
   Still don't "see" how a guide fence will insure there is no excessive "Swing" in the routed profile..The doorway is indeed eliptical... I can make a template, transfer it to chipboard and use the resulting template to guide the router with a bushing..perhaps using a series of bits as you suggest, I could produce some interesting profile. but how does this method align with the profile I cut in the straight sections... this will not work?

1. 
   RalphBarker | Feb 03, 2010 12:41am | #4

   You'd need to plan and layout
   You'd need to plan and layout both the straight and curved sections such that the profile lines align between them. One approach would be to plot the centerline of each cut, and then calculate the size and position of the guide bushing and the edge of a template to correspond with that line. For multiple cuts, you'd either need a separate template or adjust the cut position with a larger or smaller guide bushing.

   To create multiple templates, start with one that matches the existing edge profile. From there, you could create additional templates using a pencil compass in a manner similar to that when tailoring a moulding or cabinet edge to an irregular wall surface. There, it's necessary to keep the line between the point and the pencil perpendicular to the surface. For your templates, that line needs to change so it's in line with the radius of that curve segment. You might end up with some variations because of not keeping the compass in the correct orientation, but those will be visually obvious. Just correct them by hand, so the line flows smoothly, and then sand the edge of the template(s) to the adjusted line. Or, you could use segments of a "french curve" drafting template to make the corrections visually.

   To design all of this, I'd start with a cross-section drawing of the starting material. Then, draw the profile using those little clear (usually green) plastic drafting templates for circles, along with square elements to create crisp shadow lines. Match the radius of the semicircles to the radius of the bits available. The trick would be to use different plunge depths so the curves and straight/square cuts miss each other or are used in a sequence that works.

   I'm assuming a combination of straight, v-groove, and round nose bits, as suggested, to create the profile. The round-nose and v-groove bits might be similar to those in this set intended for sign making:

   http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/100-3212/router_bits_-_ea