Replies

1. 
   DCarr10760 | Sep 05, 2005 05:11am | #1

   Hi GotAll10,

   I guess if it were me, I'd do it on the tablesaw with a thin-kerf blade set for a very shallow cut, just barely through the skin on each face of the door, flipping it end-over-end to cut both sides (same edge against the fence each time).  Then I'd go back and cut through whatever internal rails are (thankfully) still holding it together at the top, the bottom and any that might be in the middle, using a handsaw to seperate it into halves. 

   This shallow cuts should reduce chipping and will allow the top and bottom frame rails to hold the door together so the thing doesn't flop around, bind up on the saw and shatter.  If you don't have an outfeed table, get somebody to help.  You want to keep All 10!

   You'll of course have to inset a new stile to support your bifold hinges, might be best to do this with a single piece running top to bottom.  But that means cutting back the rails leaving the faces alone, tricky.

   If you had another door of any size to practise on beforehand to see what you're getting into, it might be a good idea...

   Keep reading though, lots of experience here.

   Best Regards,

   David C

1. 
   BoardmanWI | Sep 05, 2005 05:21am | #2

   You might try putting tape in the cut path to help cut down on the chips, and then pull it off towards the cut to prevent pulling pieces out.

2. 
   WayneL5 | Sep 05, 2005 05:42am | #3

   I'd run masking tape down the door and draw your line on the tape.  Cut it with a bandsaw, producing little tearout and a thin kerf.  Then glue new solid wood into the hollow.  Clean up the edge on a jointer, which will make it smooth and straight.  Sand and your're done.

3. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 05, 2005 05:50am | #4

   Got all 10. (from got all 9-7/8)

   Best way, is to clamp a straight length of 1x 4 to the door exactly 4" from the cut off line (or, whatever distance from blade edge to sole edge) and use your circular saw with a good blade and riding along the 'fence' slice away .
   It helps to have the straight edge fence longer than the height of the door for a neat 'start' and 'follow through'
   Before you lay the door across two saw horses, lay four 1x2's lengthwise under and parallel to the cut This will allow the blade to extend through the door and NOT cut into the horses

   When you are through slicing the door in two, you are faced with cardboard 'egg crate' core material . This must be pushed back into the hollow door to allow you to nail and glue 'filler pieces' (1-1/8" thick)
   and about 2" wide ) I use a similar block and a hammer to knock the stuff back

   If you make the 'Rails' the correct length, nail three of four temporary stop blocks to the rails which will keep the rail flush and not allow it to enter too far into the hollow core as you hammer.

   I put a bead of glue along the outer edge of the lower veneer and a bead of glue along the top of the rail on the edge first entering the opening.
   Tap the glued filler piece in, 'til the stop blocks are flush Then clamp with many C clamps.(Or nail?)
   Done this hundreds of times and it's easier than reading my instructions. Good luck. Steinmetz.

   Edited 9/4/2005 11:00 pm ET by Steinmetz

   
   

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   Edited 9/4/2005 11:01 pm ET by Steinmetz

4. 
   dondownunder | Sep 05, 2005 06:12am | #5

   Have done this for customers quite a few times, both with ply & MDF faced doors. I cut them on the table saw in one go. Carefully trim back the cardboard in the door's innards & the top & bottom rails (optional but looks better) to accomodate the new stile. When gluing the new stile use cauls to get even pressure along the glue-line & use an adhesive that doesn't creep as the stiles will be load bearing. Neaten up with a plane. All in all you will probably loose about 4mm (5/32").

   Don