Hello,
I am planning on building some cabinet doors with raised
panels. I bought the Hitachi 3 1/4 hsp. router and a large panel cutter
to do it on the router table. The problem is the cutter does not fit
into the router because it interferes with the 3 mounting screw holes for
the rub collars. Do other routers have a method of getting around this.
Should I just cut them off with a hacksaw?
John
Replies
John.
I'm not quite sure how you have your router mounted, but I sugest using some sort of spacer between the router base and the table, even if its only some 3/8 or 1/2 inch ply with a hole big enough for the bit.
Ben
I had the same problem on my Freud router, but I got around it by dropping the bit into the collet from above the base since my panel raising bit(MLCS) has quite a long shaft. I did have to crank the router up quite high in the table as well but that is probably just my table setup. BTW, I cut those mounting hole tabs off my router since I do all my template routing with a different router anyway. I thought about making a new base for the router but because of the Freud design, mounting it to the plunge rods is not an easy proposition for someone without any machining skills or tooling. Good luck with your setup!
I had to waste bushing retainer on one of mine to use a large bit. It's best to have two routers, one fancy and the other plain for big bits and other crazy stuff we do. When push comes to shove, all those bells and whistles on the fancy jobs usually end up just getting in the way.
Hello
I am not sure if this will help you, I had a simular problem on my P,C 31/4 hourse router.I needed to remove the baseplate and then mount a new one or mount it to the router table.
I hope this helps.
John
This is common for the Hitachi M12V if you use a large panel raising bit. I cut them off, end of problem. I had read about it before I bought it a while back.
If you go to the recent thread "Hitachi M12V Router"?? (I think thats it or similar) in the last few days, a poster has posted a web-site that explains from a professional how to fine tune the router. I think you will find those ears have to be cut to accomodate the large panel bits. Also suggest getting the angle wrench from Sommerfields (CMT) if you don't have one. It makes changing bits in the table with the M12V a lot more pleasant.
Have a good evening...
sarge..jt
John,
Check here.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm
Terry
Thanks for the great information. I can see there is no way to
get around cutting off those ears for the rub collars. I will probably
have to get a new router when I to the dovetail joints for drawers.
John
John,
I have seen universal base plates advertised in catalogs for around $15.00. They have a center hole that is the Porter Cable standard size. So, instead of attaching the bushing adapter to the "ears", you change the base. This way you don't need another router except for the convenience. I have the same router and this is what I plan to do.
By the way, I recently met a man from PA who makes raised panel doors for cabinet shops as a sideline. He has 5 M12V's mounted so he doesn't have to change bits. He is obviously a big fan of this unit.
Thanks to those who posted the link to Wood Shop Demos. Looks like a interesting site.
John
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