I’m wanting to cut a brass rod and was thinking of doing it on my laguna 14/12 bandsaw. I have a woodslicer 1/2″ 3tpi blade on it thats fairly new. Is this too much to ask from the bandsaw and blade? Will it dull my blade quite a bit? I attached a pic, and I was going to use a 2×4 and the fence to cut uniform lengths. Is there a safer/better way that will give me good results?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Better off on the tablesaw with a carbide blade. Use a blade that is about ready to send out for sharpening.
If I were to use the bandsaw, I would want more tpi than 3. Cutting something that hard, there is a risk of too fast a feed, either by you, or more dangerously, from self feeding. It will be easy for the saw to grab the rod. You don't say that the rod is round, but if it is, that makes it even more likely to grab by the rod rotating into the blade. Don't count on your hand being able to hold it.
I've cut 1/8 brass sheet on a bandsaw a bunch. I would use something with a lot more teeth than 3 TPI though. And plan on tossing the blade when you are done.
It really depends on how many of these you need to cut. Just a couple, use a hacksaw. Or a metal cutting blade in a Sawzall or jig saw. Or an abrasive cutoff wheel in an angle grinder. Or a very high tooth count in a miter saw on slow speed.
I agree, LOTS more teeth needed. Metal cutting blades are typical fine toothed and the blade speeds are much slower than a wood working machine.
Also, cutting round items on bandsaw the blade will tend to grab and spin the item instead if cutting it. (Same with a table saw or even a jig saw) If you ever try cutting PVC and don't have a good grip it will catch and basically shatter on you. Scary as hell because it happens so fast!
I would think that small rod would be much worse. I would want it clamped tight.
This is back to basics time, you should be using a minimum of 10 tpi to cut something like that.
Be careful
Yes, you can...BUT should you is the real question?
The swarf from metal cutting will gum up your bandsaw tires & destroy the blade. Likewise, with the table saw, swarf will get into the machinery and the blade will spew bits around the shop so badly that you'll be picking up bits years later.
If you have only a few cuts use a hacksaw or jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. Otherwise can buy the cheapest 10" bandsaw you can find and make it a dedicated metal cutting machine.
Wow thanks for the replies everyone. I'll definitely use a different method
That is when I reach for my Roto-Zip or my angle grinder.
I would also keep any central dust collection turned off, you don't want any hot metal pieces landing in a bin full of sawdust. Brass being fairly soft what about just cutting it by hand with a good quality hacksaw blade. If you have a scroll saw you can mount a metal cutting blade.
How about a hack saw.
Late to the party but I use a bi-metal blade OTTOMH its 10TPI - really good for aluminium and brass.
Most of the time It's not worth the effort of changing the blade though so I tend to use a hacksaw - it's quicker for single cuts.
I have used a drop saw for some metal cutting but find that it's very hard even on a carbide blade so I only do that if spot on accuracy is essential (Even there, a sanding block 'shooting board' is a good alternative)
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled