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I’d like to reproduce a cabinet I salvaged from a high end renovation, but the face frame is an ellipse and beaded on both the inner and out edge. I have plenty of experience milling casing with traditional bead and quirk when they are arcs of a circle using either a band saw or a router.
I used a flush cut bit to recreate the profile but now need to slice off two 1/2 plus pieces to mill the bead. I have seen in catalogues devices for drawing ellipses but not cutting them and I have used the string method for drawing rough frames for dry walled ellipses. Can I rig up a fence to my Milwaukee jig saw or to the router base? I’d like this to look crisp. Any suggestions for a finish carpenter from cabinet makers?
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Replies
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Create your ellipse using a piece of 9mm or 12 mm MDF. Cut it to suit with bandsaw or jigsaw and smooth with hand tools. Attach by screwing this worked MDF to a timber blank, trace round it, remove it, and cut close to the shape. Attach the pattern again and cut the exact shape with a router and pattern cutting bit. If you need to work a moulding like a bead and quirk on both edges you might consider working up a piece of MDF as described above to be used with a guide bush used in conjunction with something like a router mounted engraving cutter first. Then use a large diameter guide bush and a small cutter to make your MDF blank profiling pattern to finally shape your timber blank. By mixing pattern cutting bits and patterns, and non-bearing bits with guide bushes with patterns, I suspect you might be able to get pretty much all the difficult shapes and profiles you need. Slainte, RJ.
*I am in the process of building an elliptical staircase where the back and front of every tread is an ellipse. I built a jig to cut 1/4" masonite / hardboard elliptical templates for each tread with my router. The jig was based on a design I have seen in a few woodworking magazines including FWW (#82-pg 88, #86-pg 89, #88-pg 46). I routed perpendicular dovetail grooves in a 4X8 sheet of MDF, and then ripped short maple blocks at the same angle to fit the grooves. Since the axes of my router varied from 1' - 10' I had to build the jig this large. I then put a threaded insert into each maple block and mounted my router on a long strip of hardboard. I drilled holes through the hardboard strip at various distances to match the parameters of each unique ellipse. By inserting a thumb screw through the appropriate holes in the hardboard strip and threading them into the inserts, I was able to cut numerous ellipses with decent accuracy. Let me know if you have any questions. If it would help I could try to take a couple pictures and post them. Good Luck.
*I meant to say, "Since the axes of my ELLIPSES varied from 1' - 10' I had to build the jig this large."
Mark,
Sgian's suggestion for the template is the way I would do it to. As for the bead and quirk perhaps a shopmade scratch stock would work?
Scott
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