Replies

1. 
   Eef | Apr 28, 2009 11:16pm | #1

   bow,
   although it was a pain in the ####, i have had to do this. i too, am human, and consequently am asked to learn by mistake-making. the drawer sides on mine were rabbeted. the ends were cut off on the t-saw in three passes and the new end was then rabbeted and grooved and glued to the drawer sides. since metal drawer guides were employed, there was little stress on the new end when the drawer was worked.
   hope this makes sense.
   eef

2. 
   RalphBarker | Apr 29, 2009 01:27am | #2

   As Eef noted, it's entirely possible with some care. But, I'd ask the obvious questions: how much too long are the drawers, what sort of contents will they have, and is modifying the plan for the cabinet a viable alternative?

3. 
   kreuzie | Apr 29, 2009 05:20am | #3

   I've done it too, but be very careful as others have mentioned. Raise the blade so that it's just above the sides and bottom.

   Any particular reason you built the drawers before the carcase?

   kreuzie

4. 
   Cincinnati | Apr 29, 2009 12:52pm | #4

   Sure. First take everything out of the drawers :-)! Sorry.

   Reference the cut off the drawer front. Can the bottom be removed? Typically the bottom protrudes past the back; is this your design? If it is not removable, I'd cut both sides first and the bottom last. If the drawer face is wider than the drawer, cut a spacer equal to the overhang so the drawer stays square to the blade. You may want to tack on a temporary cross piece to keep the sides in place until you get the back re-attached.

   How do you plan on joining the back at the new location?

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

1. 
   bowmkr | Apr 29, 2009 10:18pm | #6

   thanks Greg..I will remove everything in the drawers first! Actually people have been quite kind here! I am a bow maker  (musical instruments and hunting) so boxes and carcass construction is not my area of expertise. As I think you already suspect the drawers were not made by me, they are solid 1/2's inch hardwood with half blind dovetails front (5/8 in thick ) and through dovetails on the back with  loose 1/4 inch plywood bottoms via rabets? The front,  back and sides are all same height with the largest drawer 12 inch high. So I take it these fit in a tight frame or should I add a front for easier fit? Interestingly, the sides of all the drawers rock loose with gentle movement which looks as though someone forgot to glue them??? What would you recommend for the back constrcuction if they are dissambled? Rabbet for the drawer botom and perhaps the sides as well. Haven't cut dovetails before but bought a jig? Laughing..I knew it!

    

   Thanks for your time and help

   Kevin

1. 
   Cincinnati | Apr 30, 2009 01:30am | #7

   It would be sweet if they were not glued. I would disassemble them. Cut the sides to length. The back / side joints will be determined by your skill level. If you are comfortable with dovetails, go for it. If not, and you want to use a DT, practice on a few scraps until you get it right.Probably the simplest strong joint would be a 1/2" dado cut 1/2" to 3/4" in from the back end of each side. If the bottom was in an enclosed dado, I would rip the back board width equal to the inside depth dimension of the drawer. Then let the bottom extend under the back and nail it to the back.Is this description clear?Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

1. 
   bowmkr | Apr 30, 2009 11:18pm | #8

   wow! i have been bending too wood much and not been out of the box so to speak!!It is difficult for me to picture what you are saying but yes the drawers where just dry fitted or someone spaced off the glue. Not even any noted residual that looks like glue. Dovetails may have been machined as they are very tight fit. The back of the drawer is enclosed on the bottom by a dado that contains the 1/4 inch drawer bottom and again the back is joined to sides via through dovetails. a shame to shorten them  but I want to put them under my bench which is 22 inch deep..make sense?

   So if I understand you , and this is embarassing to be this clueless, but cut sides to my desired depth or make the carcass first as one other pointed out? Then re-cut the 1/4 in bottom drawer dado on a new piece of wood for back then cut 1/2 to 3/4 in rabitts on this back board and clue and nail together square? I can order the carcass to spec on line as a base cabinet or try and make it. Am I in over my head? I want to do this to expand my skills . Thanks man

1. 
   Cincinnati | May 01, 2009 12:24am | #9

   No I don't think you're over your head. I wasn't sure my suggestions were clear. Here's a drawing of one drawer construction method that should make it very clear to you. This should be relatively simple for someone with a feel and intuition to make things. I doubt this is over your head. If you are willing to attempt using a DT jig, you can handle this.Besides, what have you got to lose? The drawers are not good for you at the moment.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

   
2. 
   bowmkr | May 01, 2009 03:02am | #10

   Awesome..OK glad you sent the drawing that I think I can do! No worry about the bottom not being in a groove in back because you fasten up through the bottom to back piece, correct? Thanks for the inspiration will definatelly send a pic when I am done ! I bought the jig as I have wanted to create my own boxes for my bows for while now and have purchased them before. I think I can be far more cerative than what I have been purchasing. This is a good confidence builder but I have a ways to go I am seeing!

    

   Kevin

3. 
   Cincinnati | May 01, 2009 06:06am | #11

   Go for it. I should have mentioned I got that drawing from a Fine Woodworking article. I should have given credit with the link.You are correct in the way you pin/nail the bottom to the back from the bottom. GO for it. Send us photographs of your bows & cases.Are you making violin bows or simple bows for shooting?Greg••••••• Exo 35:30-35

   Edited 5/2/2009 6:20 am by Cincinnati

4. 
   bowmkr | May 02, 2009 09:39pm | #12

   I would be honored to !! I will pull a few together. I make music bows and yes hunting but not quite what I would call simple in that I often laminate up to 7 boards and use many different exotic woods. use laminating preses and bending forms to recurve. I have experienced a dry up and competing against big companies like Bear or Jennings and the compound or training wheel as I call it bows are tough. The music bows, all string instruments, are steady but want to expand my skills. I decided to purchase old antique quality furniture from Goodwill and estate sales (we have a lot of elderelly out here) and dissasemble them and reasemble/make changes to them to learn. Some of the pieces are old world immaculate examples of joonery and phenominal wood..I enjoy this and have sold 4 modernized pieces! Maybe on to something but want to build from scratch soon! Am a full time helicopter trauma nurse for reaL..can't wait to retire..to many nightmares for first time in my career. 

    

   Thanks again for your support !

    

   Kevin

5. 
   oldusty | Apr 29, 2009 04:53pm | #5

          Yes .

         Watch out for metal .

                You can do it !

                       dusty

6. 
   Tinkerer3 | May 04, 2009 07:11am | #13

   No laughing here.  A lot of us have similar questions.  You are in good hands and we all want to see the results.

   
   

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   Edited 5/4/2009 12:12 am ET by Tinkerer3

1. 
   bowmkr | May 29, 2009 09:29pm | #14

   thanks man ! they will soon be on thier way..had a little set back..TS died but it's ariving soon!