Replies

1. 
   RickL | May 02, 2007 07:07pm | #1

   Try breaktime for house questions. I've just used a bevel gauge. You don't even need to know the actual degrees with a bevel gauge.

2. 
   KeithNewton | May 02, 2007 11:52pm | #2

   I am not sure that I follow your question relative to turns and other special parts, but the easiest way that I have found is to either set them up on the deck of the landings where they will be, or even on the newels, then use the handrail as a straight edge to find where the tangent point to the outside of any turns would be.

   Then set them in the miter-saw so that the tangent point hits either the fence or base of the saw so that your cut will be perpendicular, or 90º to that tangent. Then the straight parts also cut at 90º to match.

   34" plumb from the nose of the tread to the top of the rail is the measure that I use for the stair rail height

   I hope this helps.

3. 
   hammer1 | May 03, 2007 01:56am | #3

   The easiest way to plan out lengths and cuts is to do it on the stairs. That is, the railing is laid down on the edge of the treads. You should set your posts first. With the rail laying down, you can make plumb marks to match posts, walls, etc. In many cases, you may not have to cut the gooseneck. It depends on the angle of your stairs. Most manufacturers either include an instruction sheet or you can find installation procedures on their web sites. Normally, you only have to trim a small amount on the neck to correct the cut

   Traditionally, you make a triangular block that matches the rise and run of the stair. The meeting angle of the gooseneck and straight rail are 90° to the base of the block. You want the profiles of the two pieces to match. You can hold a framing square with the long end on the stair edges, like the rail, with the short end pointing up. The short end indicates the angle you want to cut. Leave extra so you can try the cut and make necessary adjustments. If you have it correct, the straight rail should meet the gooseneck without having to sand or shape the two pieces very much. It's usually not far off 90°. You can also bring the two square cut ends together and look to see how much you need to take off each piece. When checking and marking, you have to make sure the top of the gooseneck is level. The bottom of the rail makes a straight transition from the rail to the neck.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   Quickstep | May 03, 2007 06:02am | #4

   Try downloading the installation guide from here:

   http://www.ljsmith.com/installation_steps.html

   I'm facing a similar challenge and found some valuable "tricks of the trade" in the installation guide.

    

    

5. 
   thesurfer | May 03, 2007 04:47pm | #5

   Hej,

   Thanks for all the help, it has been really helpful to me.  It is great being able to get new ideas, thanks again...

   There is never a bad day when you are surfing, in the ocean that is...
1. 
   nikkiwood | May 03, 2007 09:04pm | #6

   If you still have questions after reading the good advice you have received thus far, visit Breaktime, and look around for Stan Foster. There are many knowledgeable stair people there, but he's close to, if not the best.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-