Replies

1. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 24, 2006 04:03am | #1

   Don't over think it.  Cut your wood into strips, glue them together, and flatten it.  Route a groove for drippings 1" in from the perimeter with a template and router using a core box bit if you wish.  Finish with mineral oil and your done.  I'll post a pic if you'd like.

   Jeff

1. 
   boxboy | Dec 24, 2006 04:31am | #2

   thks Jeff, I was also interested in looking at some  inspiring designs or patterns as well as being able to find some written material.  I have made a few maple board that have worked well but would like to "kick it up a notch" in the design area. 

2. 
   Pondfish | Dec 24, 2006 04:57am | #3

   Do bread board ends with a 3/4-1" tenon, pegged (center peg is tight, outer pegs go through slots in the tenons to accomodate wood movement).

   3/4" thick is OK, but I prefer the heft of a 7/8" or even 1" thick board.  I like to start from thick maple boards (8/4-12/4) and resaw them so I can book match the slices. 

   On the breadboard ends, I rout a groove down the center with a core box bit to provide a hand hold.  After routing, I cut the ends to be gently rounded, leaving the groove only in the center 3" section.  All edges are releived by sanding, plane, or small router bit (1/8" or less).

   One side is flat, the other has grooves for meat juices.  I made templates in 1/4" masonite for routing these grooves (I make the boards from time to time as gifts).

   The finish is linseed oil.  I detest mineral (motor) oil finishes for it's lack of durability.  It also washes away quickly.  A good cured finish looks better and lasts a long time and is as easy to apply as a crummy mineral oil finish (no, I'm definitely not biased).  The photos show one of my boards--it's 4 years old and heavily used every day.  burn marks from hot lids are additional (albeit optional) "character."

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

   
1. 
   BigFrank | Dec 24, 2006 11:32am | #4

   I just finished (today) this cutting board that I made as a gift for a friend of mine.Its made of ash and walnut. The interior checkerboard (the hard workin' part of the board) is all end-grain up. I've read that thats the best way to make a board because it doesn't dull your knives as quickly and it "self-heals" more than a long-grain surface would. It was definitely harder to make than the other way tho.

   
1. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 24, 2006 06:46pm | #5

   Big Frank

   Very, very nice looking board!  The only concern one would have is that you have not allowed for movement, and the mitered frame may blow apart with expansion.  All those little squares will move in all 4 directions with humidity changes.  A friend of mine brought one built the same way over to my shop to reflatten it on the drum sander about 2 months ago.  A few of the glue joints were popped and the frame opened up.  I hope this doesn't happen to yours, cause it's beautiful.

   Merry Christmas,

   Jeff

1. 
   BigFrank | Dec 24, 2006 08:19pm | #6

   Yes, that is definitely a danger. I was not at all sure how to edge the thing though. I didn't want to leave the end-grain blocks all the way to the edges because then it would have been far too delicate (They seemed like they were prone to splinter off).
   How would you have solved that problem? Is there a solution?

   Edited 12/24/2006 12:24 pm ET by BigFrank

1. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 24, 2006 08:58pm | #8

   If you used larger blocks, perhaps they wouldn't seem so fragile.  However, I really like the size you chose, because it really looks awesome.  I suppose you could have used a floating tenon in the miters that could have floated with a pin and an elongated slot, as well as a spline all the way around with no glue. 

   Or better yet, leave it the way you did it, and reglue it if it cracks!  Yeah,  that's probably the easiest.

   Merry Christmas, and nice design.

   Jeff

2. 
   BigFrank | Dec 24, 2006 09:35pm | #9

   Thanks for the suggestions!
   I'll tell him that its "warranteed for life" and I'll repair it/refurb it as needed! :-) Hopefully its not more trouble for him or me than the design is worth.

2. 
   QCInspector | Dec 25, 2006 01:09pm | #10

   "The finish is linseed oil. I detest mineral (motor) oil finishes for it's lack of durability."Can I ask you which oil you are using? Raw Linseed or Boiled Linseed?
   The reason I ask is that I was under the impression that the Boiled has Metallic Driers added to it that are toxic. At least until they have had a long time to cure.

1. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 25, 2006 02:32pm | #11

   Linseed oil has that lovely odor to it, though.  No odor with mineral oil.  Oh, that 35 second wipe on, wipe off is soooooo much extra work, too.  :)

   Merry Christmas,

   Jeff

2. 
   Pondfish | Dec 25, 2006 05:13pm | #12

   BLO.  Someitmes tung, but usually just BLO.

   No cured finish (available in the US) is toxic.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

3. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 24, 2006 08:54pm | #7

   Here's some I just finished for Christmas presents. 

   Jeff