Replies

1. 
   Diz | Mar 24, 2007 04:52am | #1

   I would look at strip prep, glueing and clamping.  I am using a glue line rip blade to trim width just before glueup, applying glue to both sides, and use 3 bar clamps on a 12" board.  No problem yet that I know of after quite a few dozens.

2. 
   jeanlou | Mar 24, 2007 05:34am | #2

   Brent

   This is a technique useful on workbench tops, cutting board tops and any other solid wood top.

   Before gluing up the boards, drill them so that you can slip a threaded rod through the bunch, Drill out a space on the two outer boards to receive a washer and hex nut. Cut the rods to the right length so that once the nuts are tight, you can still glue in a plug of wood...or if you prefer, another board of wood not held in place by the threaded rod assembly. I suggest that the plugs are the better way to go. Use as many rods as you deem necessary...3 usually works well but more may be called for.

   Use glue that is 100% waterproof in cold water. Oil with mineral oil or breadboard oil once the glue is cured, and you are all set.

   Don't forget to mention to the people that you give the boards to that they do NOT like being soaked in water and should be cleaned with a damp rag only and then dried immediately.  JL

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/23/2007 10:41 pm ET by jeanlou

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Mar 24, 2007 07:26pm | #5

   thanks. I'll try that

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 25, 2007 07:33pm | #12

   Threaded rod is not a good idea on butcher blocks or cutting boards. Hardwoods have a bit of movement when it's moisture content changes. Threaded rod would restrict this movement and either deform the block or pull the nut/washers into the wood when it expands leaving the rod performing no function when the wood later shrinks. Think of a threaded rod as a the ultimate cross grain joint situation. Proper gluing will keep the block together.Howie.........

1. 
   jeanlou | Mar 25, 2007 11:34pm | #13

   Ok Howie

   Think of this method when you build your next solid wood workbench top or pasta board (about 4'x 5'). Keeping your thought about wood movement in mind, make your holes oversized...anyway, different strokes for different folks. You do what you are comfortable with and all is well.  I have been using this system for about 40 years and learned it from professional cabinet makers when I was starting up in the trade. It has never failed me in all that time, so I use it when it is appropriate.  JL

3. 
   jeanlou | Mar 24, 2007 06:11pm | #3

   Brent

   One more thought.

   Is it possible that you did not have sufficient glue on the ends of the pieces you were gluing up? Did you apply glue to both faces being joined?  JL

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Mar 24, 2007 07:27pm | #6

   I don't think that's the case because I did use plenty of glue and glued both sides. I used titebond 3 which should be plenty waterproof.

4. 
   DavidCockey | Mar 24, 2007 06:25pm | #4

   Splitting at the ends is mostly likely due to varying moisture content along the length of the board. When the ends of the board are drier than the center, the ends will shrink relative to the center and try to pull apart. Stress will build up around any small flaws in along the edge of the board, and given enough stress something will let go.

   The moisture variation occurs because moisture can move between the exposed end grain and the air much easier than through the wood. So a countermeasure is to seal the end grain to reduce the rate of moisture exchange with the air. Get the rate down low enough and the moisture content in the board will be close to uniform from end to end though vary during the year.

   Methods of sealing the ends of the board include wax and glue. Paraffin wax as used for sealing jars of fruit and vegetables in home "canning" is safe for contact with food, and can be applied by melting it and brushing it on the end grain. Clear epoxy such as West System is also very good at sealing end grain though you'd need to check whether considered sufficiently safe for contact with food and possible ingestion.

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Mar 24, 2007 07:32pm | #7

   The parrafin sounds like a good option. Does this need to be reapplied periodically?

1. 
   DavidCockey | Mar 25, 2007 05:13am | #9

   I have not used paraffin for sealing a bread  board or cutting board, but have seen waxes used for sealing the end grain of lumber. My guess is it wouldn't need to be reapplied unless the end of the board unless it was sanded severely. A disadvantage might be that dirt might embed in it.

5. 
   DustyGeorge | Mar 25, 2007 12:17am | #8

   Brent,

   One more thing to try - after jointing your boards and just before gluing up, use a plane or jointer set for a very thin cut to remove about a 1/64 from both sides of each board except for about 1 1/2 to 2 inches on each end.  That will effectively leave each end compressed and compensate for any shrinkage.

   Good luck, George

   You don't stop laughing because you grow old.  You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard
1. 
   philip | Mar 25, 2007 05:51am | #10

   George, that is the most effective measure to take to minimise the chances of end splitting on the glue joints, assuming that the glueing was effective.
   In addition, if the boards were jointed by machine it is possible that the operator technique or the machine set up could have caused the boards to be slightly bowed-hand planing short lengths like these will soon sort that out.
   And end splitting is more likely when different species are used, assuming that they were acclimatised in the first place.
   Who on earth wants to stick paraffin wax and other goo on these things?? They are meant to be used without doing that. One can expect them to perform properly without those "measures".Philip Marcou

   Edited 3/24/2007 10:53 pm by philip

6. 
   wiser1934 | Mar 25, 2007 06:10am | #11

   i'm curious as to what glue you are using. when i do cutting boards, i use titebond type 3. has the best adhesion, and is fda certified fot cutting boards. only time i have your problem is with very dry air.

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Mar 27, 2007 02:25am | #14

   I'm also using titebond 3.

7. 
   pzgren | Mar 27, 2007 10:30pm | #15

   Brent,

     As one poster has already mentioned, you could make them with a "sprung" joint; that is, with an extra 1/64th" removed from the center of the boards. Another option would be to use breadboard ends, both to help prevent the ends from splitting as much and for hiding it even if they do....

   .

   Tschüß!

   James

    

   "I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that...."

    

   -- A.C. Clarke

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Mar 29, 2007 03:26pm | #16

   By breadboard ends, do you mean a piece of wood glued up across the grain at each end?

1. 
   pzgren | Mar 30, 2007 02:13am | #17

   Brent,

     <<By breadboard ends, do you mean a piece of wood glued up across the grain at each end?>>

     Essentially, yes, but there's a little more to it.

     Specifically, I mean a cross-grain piece of wood attached with a mortise and tenon, sliding dovetail, or spline to the end-grain ends of your cutting boards (tables, etc). It's normally glued only in the middle, and often pinned, with elongated pin holes at the sides, to allow for expansion and contraction.

     These links will give you a better idea, perhaps, of what I am referring to:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesAllAbout.aspx?id=2978

     Good photos in this one:

   http://www.woodshopdemos.com/coffee-3.htm

     Pages 3 & 4 have good diagrams of one common way to make and attach breadboard ends:

   http://www.ibiblio.org/twa/plans/plans/shakerlapdesk.pdf

     The above examples should give you a pretty good basic idea of what they are and how they're made/attached. If you want more info, Google "breadboard ends". You'll find lots & lots of references.

     Hope this is of some use to you.

   .<!----><!----><!---->

   Tschüß!<!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->James<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   "I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that...."

    

   -- A.C. Clarke

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Apr 01, 2007 09:41pm | #18

   Thank you. These articles were very helpful. One question I have though is: Are the dowels used to attatch the breadboard ends glued and if so are we trying to only glue the dowel to the breadboard ends but not to the toungue?

1. 
   pzgren | Apr 02, 2007 10:54pm | #19

   Brent,

     <<Are the dowels used to attatch the breadboard ends glued and if so are we trying to only glue the dowel to the breadboard ends but not to the toungue?>>

     Correct; the dowels have to free to move back & forth through the sloted/elongated holes in the tongues.

   .<!----><!----><!---->

   Tschüß!<!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->James<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   "I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that...."

    

   -- A.C. Clarke