Is Garrett Wade’s 2026GF gap filling glue safe for cutting boards?
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Replies
It is more that likely food safe. However it doesn't say it is waterproof. Titebond 3 is waterproof, it is less expensive and I doubt the strength is much different. I have made a bunch of cutting boards and never had an issue.
“[Deleted]”
Thanks, I appreciate the help!
I'd use titebond III. Cheap, effective, waterproof. However, TB II (water resistant) would probably work well also. You don't soak your cutting boards in water. They probably don't have enough exposure to water to affect the glue lines. And anyway woodworkers keep on making cutting boards. You will make a new one for the wife long before the old one cracks due to too much water.
Further to the glue question...I think we woodworkers obsess too much about which glue is "perfect". I read an article once, I think I saw it on FW, reporting on a study of glue strength. It turns out that all yellow glues are basically created equal. Titebond, Elmers, Gorilla, no-name...they all tested about the same for strength. For years woodworkers only had hide glue. Somehow many of these pieces of furniture are still standing. So when I make my next cutting board I'll use Titebond III or II, whatever I have on hand.
I agree that many PVA glues are similar in strength and woodworkers often obsess about the oddest things ;-). The variety of adhesives is for things like open time, creep control, moisture resistance, UV reactive and so forth.
Cutting boards, although not washed in a sink full-o-suds like dishes, are exposed to a lot of moisture. I do not know that whatever is at hand is the best advice here. I have had no (reported) failures with TB-III.
For panel glue-ups on lighter woods like hard maple I will use TB-I since TB-II and III are darker and can make imperfect joints more obvious. In general though, just to keep life simple, I use TB_III on most things.
Laminations and veneering have their own requirements. Many other task specific situations exist and drive the glue-variety market. Sliding dovetails are much easier with epoxy for example as PVA causes the material to swell and can lock up midway through the assembly.
It is nice to have a choice but, I don't stock 30 varieties of adhesive as a rule ;-)
I make table tops of assorted types of hardwood to order. Normally I'd use TBII OR III but for edge to edge hold I use only "Old Brown Glue." It's pricey and has to be kept warm to work but you can't beat its holding power. Oh, it's waterproof and easy to work with.
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