Replies

1. 
   citrouille | Mar 28, 2006 02:57am | #1

   Cut it with your router (if you have one), set up 2 fences, go up and cut one side, come back down and cut the other side.
   Unless you have a router bit the exact width of your dado.

   C.

2. 
   samuel | Mar 28, 2006 06:07am | #2

   i agree with citrouille.  if you have the correct size router bit, then only one fence may be necessary.

1. 
   Patto | Apr 28, 2006 09:25am | #7

   samuel,

   As I discovered the last time I did this, only one may be necessary, two is a good risk reduction.

   david

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 28, 2006 10:30am | #8

   I've never understood the hullabaloo and fiddling people go to to get these full housing (dados) done with a saw or router, and the device pointed to just seems to make life more complex again. I can't recall the last time I created a full housing for making man made board carcases.

   Here's another method, probably simpler still. Use a T square or side fence with a router-- whichever is appropriate for the job and rout a housing (dado) or groove/channel/slit as required. Use anything between a 1/4" and 1/2" diameter bit, again whichever is convenient or right for the job. Cut the 'mortice' with one fence or T square setting.

   Next work a tongue on the end of the shelf using the router and side fence with an appropriate router bit. You might be working this tongue on the edges and ends of a board, for example, where it's a back panel or vertical divider. Make the tongue fit the grooves, housings (dados) you made.

   Test assemble the job and glue it up. This joint is stronger than a full housing through additional mechanical locking due to the extra returns that are created and an increased glue line length. If you make the tongue (the result of creating a rebate [rabbet] in essence a teensy bit tight then a quick pass with a shoulder plane will perfect the fit.) Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture

1. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | Apr 28, 2006 10:28pm | #10

   >Next work a tongue on the end of the shelf using the router and side fence with an appropriate router bit. You might be working this tongue on the edges and ends of a board, for example, where it's a back panel or vertical divider. Make the tongue fit the grooves, housings (dados) you made.

   Not to be  pain, but how does "working a tongue on the end of a shelf using a router" make things easier?

   If you really wanted that tight of a fit, why not make a sliding dovetail joint to make it so it can't come apart ever?

    Terry
   Santa Barbara,CA

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 29, 2006 12:50am | #11

   "Not to be  pain, but how does "working a tongue on the end of a shelf using a router" make things easier?"

   In the sense that you go back to the old principle of making the (female) hole with whatever size tool makes the hole and make the male part to fit. For example, a 1/2" mortise chisel makes a 1/2" mortise. The tenon can be cut to to suit easily, and it makes no difference what thickness or width the wood is for the tenoned part-- within reason. 

   On the other hand you might choose to make a tenon an exact 19/32" in width, but you have a choice of mortise chisel of either 1/2" or 3/4". One is too big and the other is too small for the tenon size you've pre-determined. Which would you use? 

   "If you really wanted that tight of a fit, why not make a sliding dovetail joint to make it so it can't come apart ever?"

   Good question. The problem with sliding dovetails over about 6" in length is assembly. If you've ever tried putting together a 12" wide shelf into the gable ends of a cabinet of the same depth with a full sliding dovetail you'll appreciate the problem. They're a pig--- and, if tightly cut, the shelf will lock tight a long time before you get the joint together.

   It's not an impossible joint, but it is one that's, well, difficult sometimes. If a sliding dovetail is what's required over a wide span I'd suggest the tapered sliding dovetail is probably a solution worth considering-- but it is more difficult to execute than a standard sliding dovetail.

   However, as this is only simple and basic plywood cabinetry we're talking about anyway, I'd not waste my time with either and just whack it all together in an hour or so with tongue and housing joints, a good slop of glue, and a few nails followed up by a bit of filler in the nail head holes. The chances are it'll all be ripped out or broken up and replaced in just a few years so there's not much point in getting excited about executing fancy joinery. Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture

3. 
   murphreejz | Apr 06, 2006 06:32am | #3

   Ditto on the router method. There is a brief video in the "Cutting Rabbets & Dadoes" section of Skills & Techniques page on FWN by Patrick Warner. All that's needed is a pattern bit and two straight & true lengths of fiberboard/plywood and you're golden... Check it out.

4. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | Apr 28, 2006 07:34am | #4

   I agree with all the above....

   Unless you get one of these- http://www.accuratewoodtools.com/accurateguide.html

   I bought mine about a month ago and not only are my dado's perfect every time, but it takes half the time to make them.

   Instead of setting up two fences to make two passes(if your bit isn't the exact size needed), or setting up your fence making a pass and adjusting your fence and making your second pass (and again for a 3rd pass many times), all you do is set your one fence one time to make your passes, regardless of your bit being the perfect size needed or not.

   I have also started using it for rabbeting when I have the router already set up and ready to go even though their video and brouchure doesn't cover that use.

   Why this tool wasn't invented years ago is trully a mistery to me.

   Terry
   Santa Barbara,

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/28/2006 12:37 am ET by SantaBarbaraSawDust

1. 
   dgreen | Apr 28, 2006 07:45am | #5

   Slick ! Did you order direct or get it through a store?

1. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | Apr 28, 2006 08:35am | #6

   I ordered direct from Accurate, also got their sliding dovetail jig and that works great also. If I recall correctly, it took about 4 days for it to show up at the door after ordering, from Wisconsin to Kalifornia.Terry
   Santa Barbara,CA

2. 
   THintz | Apr 28, 2006 10:43am | #9

   I'm always a bit suspicious of tools that make claims like the Accurate Guide does but found them to be absolutely true in this case. With just a little practice, cutting perfect dados with this thing is very fast.

   I have a review of the Accurate Guide with a video of how it works at the link below if more info would help. It really is a slick, easy to use idea.

    

   http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/accurateguidervu.htmlTom Hintz

   Because there is always more to learn!

5. 
   Mrhermit | Apr 29, 2006 07:20am | #12

   Check out http://eurekazone.com/gallery/ez-exact-dado and watch the three Quick time videos on making dado cuts.